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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-17-2008, 02:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Installed New Struts...

well just got done installing the following

4 Struts (Gabriel Guardians)
2 KYB Rear Strut Mounts (old ones where good)
2 Brake Cylinders (Rears)

I also noticed the rear sway bar endlinks are pretty much shot... but thats not my concern here... I just drove the car around after the strut install and it rides barely better then the damn stock struts with 170k and the rear still clunks quiet a bit what should I check?
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:38 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Swaybar links and bushings.

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Old 12-17-2008, 11:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
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^ Yup. Make sure the link are tightened up all the way. You may have left one loose.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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of if they're shot, then it's time to replace those as well, as worn endlinks will clunk.
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Old 07-17-2009, 06:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Okay, I'm going to switch over to my 98 Camry for a question.

I drove the 98 the other day (it's now my wife's) and noticed a clanking or clunk noise when I hit bumps. I checked it over speed bumps at slow speed and both sides are doing it.

Someone at work mentioned that I might not need struts (it rides fine), but mentioned something about a cap.

Is there a way I can put it on ramps or jack stand and determine what is needed?
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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140k, if the suspension is original, it;s done, and needs a complete overhaul. The clunking is likely the struts mounts themselves though.
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Old 07-17-2009, 07:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
140k, if the suspension is original, it;s done, and needs a complete overhaul. The clunking is likely the struts mounts themselves though.
What would a complete overhaul be? I feel $$$ pain coming, but it needs to be done.

So I would be looking and struts and...?
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Struts, mounts (thats whats clunking), front strut mount bearings.

A lot of people on the forum seem to recomend the Monroe Quick Struts, whic is everything already assembled, and a good price. That seems to be the best bet unless your into performance. The sway bar links may need to be replaced too.
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Last edited by eyeball96; 07-18-2009 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 07-17-2009, 08:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
Struts, mounts (thats whats clunking), front strut mount bearings.

A lot of people on the forum seem to recomend the Monroe Quick Struts, whic is everything already assembled, and a good price. That seems to be the best bet unless your into performance. The swap bar links may need to be replaced too.
No high performance requirements here - just a point a to point b car for my wife.

Like so many car parts, I am finding a large swing in prices. $185 on the low end and $240 on the high end.

I'm assuming the Monroe Quick Struts simplify the job some.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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It makes it MUCH easier to install as the struts are pre assembled, which means you don;t have to reuse your old springs.

The following is from RockAuto shipped to Cleveland, OH using thier 5% discount code (106E7A48FA1A).

Subtotal $659.36
Discount -$32.97
Postal Code:44114
Shipping: Ground (FedEx or UPS) $30.67
Total $657.06
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My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d
'96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
It makes it MUCH easier to install as the struts are pre assembled, which means you don;t have to reuse your old springs.

The following is from RockAuto shipped to Cleveland, OH using thier 5% discount code (106E7A48FA1A).

Subtotal $659.36
Discount -$32.97
Postal Code:44114
Shipping: Ground (FedEx or UPS) $30.67
Total $657.06
I went to the site, looks like the place to go. I'm just doing the fronts for now.

I just read your thread that you started DIY: Gen 3 front struts

I take it I will need the strut compressor for the removal.

I found in another thread where masonm said it took him 45 minutes per wheel on his 92 Camry. I'll do a little more reading here and in a couple of weeks have a go at it.

We just got rid of our leased Highlander and I think I've spent the car payment on car repairs of the remaining cars. I guess it could be worse, a lease payment and car repairs would have killed me.
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Last edited by Strum; 07-17-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 07-17-2009, 09:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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^ Nono, the Quick Struts come as a COMPLETE unit. You do NOT need spring compressors, as they com pre assembled WITH the spring!

I think the onl;y difference between my writeup (96 Camry, Gen 3), and the Gen 4, is that the sway bar link is on the strut on your car, which of course, is an extra step.

In my writeup, you need to follow steps:
2, 3, 4, 5, 11. Yes, you cut that many steps out with the quick strut.
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Old 07-18-2009, 05:29 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
^ Nono, the Quick Struts come as a COMPLETE unit. You do NOT need spring compressors, as they com pre assembled WITH the spring!
I figured that, but there is no need for a compressor when removing the old one?
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Old 07-18-2009, 05:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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^No, the compressor is used to take the spring off of the strut, in your case if you get the quick struts you get to skip the step.

You would only need to take the spring off of the older strut if you needed it for your new struts, no need with the quick struts since they come already assembled.
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Old 08-30-2009, 10:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I had to go back to working on the 93 and now the wife is bugging me to take a look at the 98 (her car).

I wasn't too sure about the struts needing to be replaced so I put the car up on ramps to take a look from below. The struts do not appear to be the originals, but I really can't confirm that. I pushed down on both the right and left fenders and the noise (clunk) is coming from the passenger side. I noticed that the bar/link that runs parallel to the strut moves easily and makes noise (no lubricant) and seems to be looser than the drivers side.

I looked in my gen 3 Haynes (don't have a gen 4 Haynes) and don't see the part I am referring to, so can someone tell me what is the name of the bar/link? Since it appears to need to be replaced, I figure I would do that before moving further.
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