3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I also noticed the rear sway bar endlinks are pretty much shot... but thats not my concern here... I just drove the car around after the strut install and it rides barely better then the damn stock struts with 170k and the rear still clunks quiet a bit what should I check?
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2000 Camaro Z28 - Full Bolt ons, Heads/Cam
1994 Firebird Formula - Full Bolt ons, Heads/Cam *Parted Out*
Coming Soon 1995 Camry LE 165k
Okay, I'm going to switch over to my 98 Camry for a question.
I drove the 98 the other day (it's now my wife's) and noticed a clanking or clunk noise when I hit bumps. I checked it over speed bumps at slow speed and both sides are doing it.
Someone at work mentioned that I might not need struts (it rides fine), but mentioned something about a cap.
Is there a way I can put it on ramps or jack stand and determine what is needed?
Struts, mounts (thats whats clunking), front strut mount bearings.
A lot of people on the forum seem to recomend the Monroe Quick Struts, whic is everything already assembled, and a good price. That seems to be the best bet unless your into performance. The sway bar links may need to be replaced too.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
Struts, mounts (thats whats clunking), front strut mount bearings.
A lot of people on the forum seem to recomend the Monroe Quick Struts, whic is everything already assembled, and a good price. That seems to be the best bet unless your into performance. The swap bar links may need to be replaced too.
No high performance requirements here - just a point a to point b car for my wife.
Like so many car parts, I am finding a large swing in prices. $185 on the low end and $240 on the high end.
I'm assuming the Monroe Quick Struts simplify the job some.
I take it I will need the strut compressor for the removal.
I found in another thread where masonm said it took him 45 minutes per wheel on his 92 Camry. I'll do a little more reading here and in a couple of weeks have a go at it.
We just got rid of our leased Highlander and I think I've spent the car payment on car repairs of the remaining cars. I guess it could be worse, a lease payment and car repairs would have killed me.
^ Nono, the Quick Struts come as a COMPLETE unit. You do NOT need spring compressors, as they com pre assembled WITH the spring!
I think the onl;y difference between my writeup (96 Camry, Gen 3), and the Gen 4, is that the sway bar link is on the strut on your car, which of course, is an extra step.
In my writeup, you need to follow steps:
2, 3, 4, 5, 11. Yes, you cut that many steps out with the quick strut.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
^No, the compressor is used to take the spring off of the strut, in your case if you get the quick struts you get to skip the step.
You would only need to take the spring off of the older strut if you needed it for your new struts, no need with the quick struts since they come already assembled.
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**ADAM! A/C button for Gen 5.5 Camry (2005 LE) !! Por favor!
Brake lights aren't broken, I just don't brake.
--Can honestly go to a parts counter and ask for brake shoes for the front brakes.
--Likes long walks on the beach.... once it's lit by a massive bonfire.
I had to go back to working on the 93 and now the wife is bugging me to take a look at the 98 (her car).
I wasn't too sure about the struts needing to be replaced so I put the car up on ramps to take a look from below. The struts do not appear to be the originals, but I really can't confirm that. I pushed down on both the right and left fenders and the noise (clunk) is coming from the passenger side. I noticed that the bar/link that runs parallel to the strut moves easily and makes noise (no lubricant) and seems to be looser than the drivers side.
I looked in my gen 3 Haynes (don't have a gen 4 Haynes) and don't see the part I am referring to, so can someone tell me what is the name of the bar/link? Since it appears to need to be replaced, I figure I would do that before moving further.
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