Steering bellow boot torn, major fluid leak - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-20-2008, 05:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Steering bellow boot torn, major fluid leak

Big Pig suffered a major PS fluid leak.

The clamp on the tie rod side pinched a tear in the driver side steering bellow boot, and now that boot leaks PS fluid when steering is turned to full lock either side. I found where to get that part - the boot is $23.5 - but the pliers to tighten the other clamp is $20

Dad bought a tire patch kit and wants to try to patch the leak, but it keeps oozing PS fluid non-stop I can't even start. (Will it ever work?) I just have to call again and order that part first thing Monday.

Because Big Pig is down while hoarding the entire garage it also leaves Little Pig out in the cold...
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The boot is just there to keep dirt and debris out of the rack. There shouldnt be fluid in the boot. If it is leaking that bad the rack and pinion needs to be replaced.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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^ what said. there is a seal that separated the steering rod , like a hydraulic ram and the boot only covers the part that is exposed.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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^ Yup
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The whole rack is $337 (yikes ), but I can replace it myself, then send it out for alignment. Junkyard rack is $102 but meh, can't really trust those.

I'll pull the boot to confirm a leaking oil seal. If I see that thing leak... *cracks knuckles*
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's a LOT harder to install then you think. I hope you have a lift to put the car on.
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
It's a LOT harder to install then you think. I hope you have a lift to put the car on.
Not that hard. I did it with the car up on chassis stands. But for convience, disconnect exhaust after the exh manifold, take it off it's rubber mountings (drops even lower due to the flexible sections) and remove the crossmember as well.

I did this in my car (sort of, fitted power steering) and just finished 2 days ago! Still very proud of my feat Anyways, like everyone said, they are only dust boots and do not hold fluid in. Your rack is toast. Getting a rack from the wreckers is a bit of a hit and miss, but if you can afford to get new then do it. I took the gamble and mine's fine, but yes, you NEED an alignment afterwards. I had really bad toe out, was screeching the whole way there. Target specs were +0.6mm with +/- 0.6mm tolerance. One side was +17.6 and the other was +13.9mm!
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It's a LOT harder to install then you think. I hope you have a lift to put the car on.
I have 4 stands and a floor jack, if that count. I know the procedure, what tools are needed and that all of them can be found at a big box store if I don't already have. I also know doing the same thing on my Corolla is much worse.

And taking the rack apart to redo the seal is way way worse - I don't have a press for one.

Is it really necessary to remove the steering wheel?

If I only have a disposable coverall...
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Is it really necessary to remove the steering wheel
Nope, you don't have to touch the steering wheel or remove the steering shaft. Just undo the pinch bolts on the universal joint. You can make markings on the uni joint, but it won't help too much since you're putting in a differnt rack. Just remember the position of the uni joint when wheels are aligned straight(on the old rack) and mimick it when you have the new rack pointing the wheels straight.
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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its also a good idea to use something to hold the steering wheel in place while the knuckle is disconnected so it doesn't get spun. that way the clock spring in the steering column won't get ruined. good luck.
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:13 PM   #11 (permalink)
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its also a good idea to use something to hold the steering wheel in place while the knuckle is disconnected so it doesn't get spun. that way the clock spring in the steering column won't get ruined. good luck.
Or someone XD I know i had someone hold the wheel when i torqued it up. It also means that you can tell them to spin the wheel so the bolt face a certain where it's easiest to remove with multiple extentions
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The tie rod end puller I got from crappy tire didn't fit properly, so we knocked the tie rod ends out with a hammer . I think I ruined the tie rod ends in the process so I'm adding them to the shopping list. But did I ruin anything else without knowing?
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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There is only 1 type of tie rod end puller I;ve ever seen.....I used to AutoZone rent a tool and it was perfect.
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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There is only 1 type of tie rod end puller I;ve ever seen.....I used to AutoZone rent a tool and it was perfect.
Two-pronged screw type or fork type? When I bought the damn thing I saw three different types at the local crappy tire.
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:11 AM   #15 (permalink)
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^ then just borrow them all since it's free anyway
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