Camry will not stay running. Starts then dies.

[luckydog700]

I have a '94 Camry DX (4 cylinder) that will not stay running.

Symptoms:
No CEL codes. If I can get it started, it will not stay running.

Things tried and other information:
-- replaced fuel filter
-- added gas to dilute any contamination
-- replaced rotor, plugs, distributor cap
-- tried spraying seafoam to clean throttle body and IAC.
-- air temperature sensor tests good
-- disconnected other sensors without any change to problem ... ECT, O2 sensors.
-- Jumpered fuel pump power to hear it running; I don't have a pressure gauge

-- Engine ran well once when it was extremely cold. The failure reappeared after warming engine compartment (well after the engine was warm).
Tried to isolate a component with cold spray after warming up, but could not find anything before running out of spray.

-- I can get the car to starts and idle with the vacuum hose disconnected to the MAP sensor (revs up, but still dies under power). The MAP sensor tests good. With the vacuum to MAP sensor disconnected, it reports atmosphere pressure (~3V at mile high). Won't start or run with the sensor leads disconnected. Also, the vacuum leak created to the intake manifold seems to help the idle as well; it idles better when I remove other plugs to allow more air intake.

Any ideas?

[1996camry]

can your car crack while HOT or cold?

is sound like your distrubutor (button inside) went bad... also check the resistance on the distrubutor wires to make sure they're not bad.

do a search here to find a manual your model and check the distrubutor (button) and distrubutor wires..

[luckydog700]

yes, it cranks hot and cold.
wires from distributor to plugs are just under 10k ohm.
what button are you talking about? I have the manuals. The spring loaded ones on the distributor cap going to the rotor? I have replaced the distributor cap.

The car is running at a nice idle if I have the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor off. I'm starting to think I either didn't test it right or there is fuel / mixture problem. Anyone know what the symptoms of low fuel pressure are? If the MAP is OK, then leaving the vacuum off is causing the system to compensate somehow (more fuel maybe?).

thanks for the help, my daughter is w/o a car.

[shivanand8]

Originally Posted by luckydog700

I have a '94 Camry DX (4 cylinder) that will not stay running.

Symptoms:
No CEL codes. If I can get it started, it will not stay running.

Things tried and other information:
-- replaced fuel filter
-- added gas to dilute any contamination
-- replaced rotor, plugs, distributor cap
-- tried spraying seafoam to clean throttle body and IAC.
-- air temperature sensor tests good
-- disconnected other sensors without any change to problem ... ECT, O2 sensors.
-- Jumpered fuel pump power to hear it running; I don't have a pressure gauge

-- Engine ran well once when it was extremely cold. The failure reappeared after warming engine compartment (well after the engine was warm).
Tried to isolate a component with cold spray after warming up, but could not find anything before running out of spray.

-- I can get the car to starts and idle with the vacuum hose disconnected to the MAP sensor (revs up, but still dies under power). The MAP sensor tests good. With the vacuum to MAP sensor disconnected, it reports atmosphere pressure (~3V at mile high). Won't start or run with the sensor leads disconnected. Also, the vacuum leak created to the intake manifold seems to help the idle as well; it idles better when I remove other plugs to allow more air intake.

Any ideas?

ok i have a 93 camry. if i was to unplug the vaccum line from my MAP sensor my engine dies. soething to keep in mind. Have u tried replacing the coil inside the distributor? I have a problem where my car tired to die after getting warmed up. this might be ur problem! if the coil gets hot enough it might just fail and cause a stall until it cools again!

any questions hit me up on aim i also have access to SHOPKEY5.COM (no im not giving out my username/pass) but im willing to help anyone with any questions about their car!

AIM: Shivanand8

[luckydog700]

UPDATE:
I have also verified the timing and made sure the timing belt has not slipped (aligned the TDC mark and made sure the distributor is pointing to #1 plug).

shivanand8, thanks for letting me know about unplugging the MAP sensor on you running vehicle.

I think the car may be pulling a very high a vacuum (maybe idle air control IAC not coming open correctly) or fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator ... I'm running out of time and I will have to take it to a shop that can check the pressure and vacuum.

anyone else have an idea?
thanks

[luckydog700]

UPDATE:
Took it to a reputable shop with lots of Toyota experience and they are still looking at it. Fuel pressure looks OK.

[luckydog700]

Last update:
Shop replaced a cracked coil and said the fuel pressure was very low when car warmed up. I replaced the fuel pump.
Combination of failures (both fuel and spark) caused strange symptoms.

[Mike Morris]

How is fuel pressure now at the rail?

[new echo owner]

Is the car fixed then?

N.E.O.

[luckydog700]

new echo owner --- Yes, the car is running and fixed.
I was able to drive it before replacing the fuel pump. The guys at the shop wanted to make sure I had the number to the tow truck before driving home They had replaced the coil but could not keep it running more than 15 min. and noted the low pressure. I replaced the pump to save $$.

Mike Morris ---- Good question. I don't know the pressure. I just replaced the pump and sent the car back to my daughter after some extended test drives (50+ miles). I was wondering if the pressure regulator was not functioning correct as well, so I asked the guys at the shop to explain how they tested the pump vs. the regulator (since it could cause the pressure to be low as well). The looked at the pressure at the filter and after the regulator. It was always the same and low.

[new echo owner]

Good to hear the car is running fine!

Usually on your car, restricting the return line will tell you if the pump is putting out enough pressure or not; and removing the vacuum supply to the FPR will tell you if the regulator is doing its job or not.

N.E.O.