3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I need advice on making manual clutch last longer (Camry 1995 4 cyl). Is it good to make many small quick releases and gear changes? or less slow/longer clutch releases? Also, if I am stopped is it better to keep car in neutral with clutch released or keep clutch pressed all the way in gear?
Just out of curiosity I would like to know the longest you have driven your car before manual clutch change.
Is that for regular everyday city driving as well? I thought that was for people who race. I am a careful driver who abides speeds limits so rev match is probably not my option. Also, will burn more gas.
rev match can be used all of the time. this can be done at any rpm or speed and wont burn any extra fuel. i probably only do it about 40% of the time, but i am doing it more and more as i become more confident. i know some people that do this 90% of the time. heck, its good to learn in case your clutch fails.
this can be done at any rpm or speed and wont burn any extra fuel
I am unable to understand how it wont burn extra fuel. When I am approaching a red light say on 5th gear, I normally press the clutch and put it in neutral so the rpm stays at 700 for the rest of the distance till car comes to a stop. If I am reving all the way down individual gears, wont it burn more gas?
When you say rev match, do you mean double clutching or just matching it after you step on the clutch? If double clutching, that will prematurely wear out your throwout/thrust bearing. So in a sense, you're going to open it up anyways
Engage the clutch fully as quickly as you can without jerking the car. Do not riiiiiide it out for a smoother engagement since this is what mainly kills the clutch.
Double clutch or heel-toe rev match if you downshift, to prevent jerkiness. Double clutch if you want to save your synchros from doing a bit of work, or just do a single heel-toe if you're in a hurry.
Doesn't matter too much if you sit at a stoplight with the clutch engaged or with it in neutral, although technically you can wear out your throwout bearing a little faster if you sit there with the clutch engaged. The downside to shifting into neutral is that re-engagement of 1st can be hit-or-miss depending on how your dog teeth are aligned.
Engage the clutch fully as quickly as you can without jerking the car. Do not riiiiiide it out for a smoother engagement since this is what mainly kills the clutch.
Double clutch or heel-toe rev match if you downshift, to prevent jerkiness. Double clutch if you want to save your synchros from doing a bit of work, or just do a single heel-toe if you're in a hurry.
Doesn't matter too much if you sit at a stoplight with the clutch engaged or with it in neutral, although technically you can wear out your throwout bearing a little faster if you sit there with the clutch engaged. The downside to shifting into neutral is that re-engagement of 1st can be hit-or-miss depending on how your dog teeth are aligned.
As far as downshifting to a stop... everyone has their own opinion. Plenty of people say you should downshift and engage every gear at a stop, and they quote "safety" reasons in case somebody behind you forgot to brake, so you won't waste precious seconds re-engaging the proper gear. This may or may not be overkill since this does put wear on your clutch and can be a pain in the ass. I compromise and downshift without engaging the clutch in every gear at a stop.
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1994 Camry 2.2L LE Auto
2005 Corvette 6.0L 1SB Z51 6-sp
Also, you're going to want to learn how a clutch works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm
As far as downshifting to a stop... everyone has their own opinion. Plenty of people say you should downshift and engage every gear at a stop, and they quote "safety" reasons in case somebody behind you forgot to brake, so you won't waste precious seconds re-engaging the proper gear. This may or may not be overkill since this does put wear on your clutch and can be a pain in the ass. I compromise and downshift without engaging the clutch in every gear at a stop.
Good stuff thanks! Please tell what happens when I put car in 'neutral' on stop and release the clutch pedal. What happens to the clutch plate? Does the clutch plates engage/contact with the engine or they are remain separated (like when pedal was pressed)? in other words does the clutch wear down in neutral if I press and release pedal
Good stuff thanks! Please tell what happens when I put car in 'neutral' on stop and release the clutch pedal. What happens to the clutch plate? Does the clutch plates engage/contact with the engine or they are remain separated (like when pedal was pressed)? in other words does the clutch wear down in neutral if I press and release pedal
With your foot off the clutch, the clutch is still clamping onto the flywheel. The flywheel itself is still spinning, but within the transmission, it's not engaged onto any driving gear; which is why it won't stall. But yes, if you keep playing with the clutch, you will wear it.
I don't like the terminology of "engage" and "disengage". The proper use of it is in regards to the clutch pedal, when you step on it, you're "engaging" the clutch as you're using it. But in an actual sense, the clutch itself is being disengaged from the flywheel. And vice versa when you're off the pedal, "disengaged", the clutch is really engaging against the flywheel.
Edit: I should add that some people refer to 'engage' and 'disengage' in terms of the clutch itself; not the way described above.
There is only two basic scenarios where wear and tear occur:
1) When pressing on the clutch pedal while waiting for a light to turn green. This causes wear in the bearing
2) When switch inbetween gears (either from a stand still or rolling) this causes wear to the clutch.
So when you are at a light and in neutral, there is no need to press on the clutch pedal.
btw, I RPM match all the time, I am never in search of a gear. Also once you master your car and clutch, wear and tear on the clutch is the least of your worries (you would know your way around it). Also the biggest problem is 1st gear. I always rev to about 1000-1100 and drop the clutch simultaneously on 1st gear for the least amount of wear. Reving too high on 1st gear grinds the clutch more. Keep that in mind.
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92 Camry 4 cyl 5 Spd
390,000km, Retrofited Projectors + 6000k HID, 2500k Fogs, SRI, K-Sport Coilovers, TRD Rear Sway Bar, GEN4 Ralco Short Shifter, Alpine 7" IVA-D900, 2 x 10" MTX / MTX 900W Amp
I don't like the terminology of "engage" and "disengage". The proper use of it is in regards to the clutch pedal, when you step on it, you're "engaging" the clutch as you're using it. But in an actual sense, the clutch itself is being disengaged from the flywheel. And vice versa when you're off the pedal, "disengage", while the clutch is really engaging against the flywheel
My 1996 Camry is an automatic but my 1989 Ford Ranger is a manual and so far has 483,000 miles on the original clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing and the truck is my daily driver. The longevity of your clutch and throwout bearing depends on driver technique, load / weight and amount of use. All other things being equal, a lightly loaded car is much easier to get rolling than a heavy car and the clutch of course will last longer. Driver technique wise, I shift to neutral approaching a stop light or stop sign and coast up to the stop with just my foot on the brake, no clutch. This will dramatically save wear on your throwout bearing, which is forced to spin continuously when you have the clutch pressed in at the light. While RPM matching may seem like a way to save the clutch, it is not very practical if driving a 4 cylinder car in a busy urban setting.
Driver technique wise, I shift to neutral approaching a stop light or stop sign and coast up to the stop with just my foot on the brake, no clutch. This will dramatically save wear on your throwout bearing, which is forced to spin continuously when you have the clutch pressed in at the light.
I felt satisfied after reading your answer. I drive 'exactly' the way you have stated, so hopefully my clutch won't die soon. Also with all this new information I understand more about how it works so I can work better to save it. BTW 483K is ..wow ..amazing! That must have to do with Ford Ranger durability as well. Good on you!
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How to make your Clutch last longer?
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