Help with oil change

[calaeb0893]

Hey i tried to change my oil today, but the lady i bought it from had a place do it and they put the bolt on way way to tight. I tried and tried with just a wrench to get it off but no luck and my oil needs to be changed. I already bought the oil and fliter i would hate to have to go pay someone to do it now. Do you guys have any tips on how to get it off? I don't have a air tool set so won't help.Thanks Calaeb

[95WhiteCamry]

first off, make sure you're using the correct size wrench. it should be a 14mm.

Next, make sure you're turning in the correct direction.

Lastly, i use a socket set for this. 14mm socket mated to a 12 inch handle... that should give you enough torque to undo the drain plug. when you put it back on, make sure you don't overtighten it so as not to damage the threads. in fact, spend a few bucks and buy a new one to change with your oil for safety's sake.

[calaeb0893]

ok thanks for the help!

[TheKevin]

you could spray the plug with some pb blaster

[Troyboy]

Often with mechanics you have to be very serious and when trying to do like you say... you have to yes have a good fitting socket or ring spanner, which is less likely to 'topple' over and will lend itself to a good hard sharp whack with a hammer...
But allso you have to give it 200% effort... get the spanner on and pull or push firm and slowly as hard as you possibly can, and then some more, and then some more again...
Anticlockwise... if the nut has been 'founded off' and a smaller spanner will not hammer on, then you canchisel the nut around in a circular direction by whacking the edgw of the flat... remember it's just you and that nut, you will win if you don't give up...
as with all things mechanical...

[dave255]

You can always slide a piece of steel pipe over the wrench or handle of the ratchet in order to get more leverage.

[calaeb0893]

Originally Posted by TheKevin

you could spray the plug with some pb blaster

(nobbie here) pb?
Why is it that they always put the bolt back on so damn tight? My brother told me that you should always just use a wrench, so you dont over tighten it. Same with a oil filter he tought me to juse tighten it with your hand not a tool. Is that a good idea or was he just talkin?

[TheKevin]

Originally Posted by calaeb0893

(nobbie here) pb?
Why is it that they always put the bolt back on so damn tight? My brother told me that you should always just use a wrench, so you dont over tighten it. Same with a oil filter he tought me to juse tighten it with your hand not a tool. Is that a good idea or was he just talkin?

pb blaster, you'll find it useful around the garage
http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

if you have one, try using a 1/2" ratchet, small breaker bar or a larger metal pipe over your current ratchet for more leverage as dave said.

[Mike Gerber]

I was going to suggest a small breaker bar and a 14MM socket, but someone beat me to it. I would also go to Toyota and get a new fiber sealing washer to replace the old one with, especially if they overtightened the one that is on there now. The smooth side of the fiber washer goes toward the oil pan.

Mike

[Troyboy]

Shallow headed sump bolts are best loosened with Ring Spanners, not sockets because their fulcrum point is too high and they topple over.

Sharp whack with hammer is more effective than slow turning pressure.

PB Blaster will be a waste of time & money since the bolt is not corroded but is tight thru twisting pressure on thread.

Bars and extension pipes will wreck ratchets.
If u don't have a 14mm ring spanner, go buy one...
New washer is good idea...

They are 'overtightened' thru lack of confidence by people that don't know what they doing.
And yes filters tighten by hand because they do up against an O ring

Sump bolts are easy and they ALL undo, just one little bolt...
Just do it with meaning...

[djb2]

I second that: PB Blaster isn't always the answer. it works on corroded fasteners where it can wick into the threads. But the oil pan bolt has a sealing washer that's good enough to keep oil from leaking out, and the threads are already oil covered.

Oil pan plugs have a very low torque specification, especially for their size. The sealing is done by the deforming washer -- usually nylon or unhardened copper or aluminum.

If you don't replace the washer it becomes work hardened and takes more force to deform. Oil change places rarely replace the washer, instead using much more than the specified torque to the plug bolt.

[camlex]

Install this, and no more tools.

http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...ts.asp?Cat=187

[scrapdawg02]

Originally Posted by dave255

You can always slide a piece of steel pipe over the wrench or handle of the ratchet in order to get more leverage.

I agree with dave255. Take a piece of steel pipe, about 12-16 inches, and insert the ratchet handle inside. Then grip near the end of the pipe and turn it counterclockwise. The further you are near the end of the pipe the more torque you get without increasing how hard you have to turn.

t = r x F, where:
t = magnitude of torque
r = position vector (ie, where you grip the pipe)
F = force (ie, your strength in turning)

As you can see in the formula, the further you grip the pipe away from the bolt, the more torque you get (without having to use more force!). Good luck!!!

[Troyboy]

Rachets are easily ruined by applying force thru leverage...
wrenches are good for seeing how far you can throw things.
Sockets are too tall for shallow headed sump bolts... and topple over easily.
formulas used to express the obvious don't stand up against real world experience.
Theory is only any good, if it has apractical application,
otherwise, it's just feel good me me chewing gum...
Use a hammer and ring spanner, forget about the vector completely.
sump bolts are nothing...
Just do it.

[Mike Gerber]

"The sealing is done by the deforming washer -- usually nylon or unhardened copper or aluminum."

Toyota uses a fiber washer to seal the oil pan drain bolt.

Mike