Is this a gen 3 or 4?

On my Gen2, you need to remove the lower covers and panels around the steering wheel (bottom first(right above where your shins are, then the steering column cover). After that you will see the lock cylinder and it's held on by 2 shear bolts (heads snap off when correct torque is reached at the factory). It's a bit awkward, but you can use a rotary hand tool with a cutting disc (really small, about 1.5cm in diameter) and cut slots into it so that you can screw the studs? (don't know that name, but a bolt, but with no hex head). But try using a chisel and mallet and see if you can put a slot in it like that.

If not, you could take the whole steering shaft out and drill off the head so it no longer holds on the shoulder.

Like i said, this was on my Gen 2 and may vary differently with your Camry.

 

gen 3 thanks for the post

 

If you are just replacing the lock cylinder, which is usually the problem, you just need to take the lower cover off, turn the key to the 'access' position, then push the lock pin through the hole in the ignition lock cylinder housing and the lock cylinder should come out.

N.E.O.

 

What do you do when you have a key broken off in the switch and can not turn the key to the access position??? Please help...

 

look on the bottom of the column, there is a small metal pin that locks the cylinder in place when you turn the key, drill it out and it will slide out....It happened to my camry and tacoma......you'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to start it after, to turn the tab portion of the cylinder

 

Will not turn any further

This morning when I first tried to turn key it would only go to acc while steering column was unlocked...well my ex father inlaw when he tried to turn key he locked the steering wheel. since then the key OEM or new replacement didn't go all the way in cylinder using a rubber mallet it was pushed in...now key goes in but will not turn...what is the the possible issue?:headbang::headbang::headbang:

 

Is your car an auto or manual?

 

Automatic

 

1997 Toyota Camry Key Wont turn, Ignition Lock problem -1997 toyota camry FIXED!!! I see a lot of Douches with a capital D trying to charge people to fix this extremely common issue with this Camry ignition cylinder. OK pull the plastic guard off encasing the steering column. Get a phillips head screwdriver and remove the 2 screws holding the little off-white connector at the rear of the module(it has the wires to the ignition running to it). Get a pair of pliers or a small crescent wrench and while trying to turn the key use the wrench to turn the little rod sticking out of the back of the module. Make sure your turning it WITH the direction the key is trying to turn it. It should immediate be freed. Wala IT WORKS! AND THATS WHY PEOPLE DONT TRUST MECHANICS! HOW CAN YOU CHARGE SOMEONE FOR THAT INFO?

 

This hint was enough to break loose a locked steering wheel and permit normal use of the gear shift, this on a 2000 Toyota Sienna. The lock cylinder remains stuck, and I start the car with a small screw driver turning the plastic switch taken off the back of the full ignition lock assembly. Earlier, I had successfully removed the lock cylinder, removed the split tumblers, replaced and ran with it for three days, at which time, it resisted, and I somehow managed to turn the steering wheel into a fully locked position making the car inoperable even after I could start the engine.

Thank you very much for this post; you've have saved us a ton of trouble. By the way, the next drive we take is to the Toyota dealership in Coos Bay, where a new Sienna is ours in about two weeks.

 

Since I recently had to tackle this for a friend whose key was not turning in the cylinder, I decided to take some pics of the process to make it easier for the next guy...

Remove the black bolt above the dead pedal to remove the cover next to driver's left foot. This must be removed to get at other screws that need to be removed.

To remove the plastic knee panel below the steering wheel, you will need to remove the hood latch mechanism that is mounted to it. Start by removing the two screws shown:

Pull the hood latch mechanism out so that you can get to the cable:

Remove the cable by rotating the cable in the handle so that the cylinder at the end of the cable can be rotated and the cable slid sideways through the handle:

Remove the screw on the lower right corner of the knee panel:

Once you have the lower knee panel off, you must also remove the metal bracket behind it that holds the OBD-II connector. There are 5 screws holding this panel in place (not shown), all fairly easy to find. Here is the OBD-II connector mounted to the metal panel. It can be removed from the panel by pressing the clips on the sides:

Now you can remove the cover around the ignition switch by pulling it away from the dash and popping the two clips out of the dash.

Remove the light ring from around the key cylinder by removing one screw at the bottom:

The screw can be better seen in this pic with the light ring removed:

Now you can remove the key cylinder by pressing a small shaft into the hole at the bottom of the key cylinder. The key must be in the ACC position:

If you can't get the key to turn to ACC position, you may have to get access to the back of the cylinder to turn the key shaft. By crawling upside-down under the dash, you will see the plastic switch assembly screwed to the back of the key cylinder:

By removing two screws and unclipping a few of the attached connectors, you will be able to remove the switch and see the end of the key shaft:

A pair of needle-nose pliers can then be used to gently assist turning the key to the ACC position, and press the release button on the bottom of the cylinder as shown in the photo above.

Here's a pic of the key cylinder being removed from the housing:

...and a view down the empty housing:

Once I had the key cylinder out, the next decision was to replace or repair. Replacing with a new cylinder was complicated by the fact that this Camry came with a chipped key. Changing the cylinder meant getting a new chipped key and spending another $80 at the Toyota dealer to get it programmed to the VIN. Getting a non-chipped cylinder would work, but the owner would have to keep the chipped key and press it against the non-chipped key while starting the car to satisfy the transponder.

What we came up with (at the suggestion of the Toyota parts guy, no less) was to take the cylinder to a locksmith, where he rebuilt the cylinder with new tumblers, for about $30. Problem solved!

Put it all back together in about 30 mins, good as new!

Steve

 

This post is so old but I just had the locksmith repair my ignition lock cylinder so I thought I'd add my two cents. The Toyota lock cylinder uses split wafers which can bend, break, and bind keeping the cylinder from turning in the barrel. Good locksmiths are so familiar with the problem with this type of lock that they can correct the problem in about an hour if you bring them the lock cylinder and your key.
$23.50 + tax
PS: I can easily remove the "undamaged" lock cylinder by prying the plastic trim cover that surrounds the key switch off (taking care to pry at the upper left and lower right corners), then remove the screw that holds the lighted ring and move the ring out of the way. Turn the key to ACC and use a bent coat hanger to push in the securing pin. Pull the cylinder out with the key. Way too easy.

 

This is actually the correct way to remove the ignition cylinder.

 

^ What year and model is your car?
I was having ignition problems... no crank ... no lights ... the local locksmith told me that the key was worn. However, after some time ... 2 or 3 years actually... had elapsed ... the reason that the ignition switch wasn't working turned out to be because the neutral safety switch needed overhauling ... There is a DIY at the top of the forum page on how to do this ...

 

I had the same problem with my 97 Camry. Managed to get it to ACC and take the cylinder out and get it repaired at a locksmith.

I have been starting the car with needle nose plyers while I waited for the fix. Now, I can't get it to go back in. I turn the switch and the key to the ACC position, and it slides almost all the way down, but it is a few mm away from clicking in the notch. Without the spring being depressed, I can't turn the key out of ACC.

Any tricks? I must be missing something. What is the purpose of the gold rod running along the top?

 

I had the same problem with my 97, It felt like like I was driving around in a stolen car with the long needle nose pliers sticking out of the ignition. The locksmith said it was a common problem, the tumblers where worn out. It might've cost $25.00 or so

 

Hey, I know this is an older thread...
But just replaced the ignition switch in my '98 everything works as should...
But now my power locks and remote for previous do not work!?!
If the door is closed, the power locks work.
However if the door is open, after you push to lock.
The locks spring back open.
To fix for the moment I took out the fuse and just deal with "manual" locks.
Any ideas?

 

The "pin" switch that senses if the key is in the lock is either stuck or broken. Or maybe not fastened down properly either way check that out.

 

Will look into it thanks for the heads up, but normally as I said it works in car (key in or out).
If I have door open atop exit and hit lock, that is when it triggers and reopens.
Just using manual as I said, but a pain with the kids and groceries at times.
Miss my remote, lol.

 

Thanks for your insight, i will surely use the manual and in case any problem arises will also call my friend who works in locksmith columbus ohio firm to remove the ignition.

 

hello

 

Currently troubleshooting 1999 Toyota Camry V6 automatic transmission ignition switch / ignition cylinder issue.

Specific Problems:

a. Opened driver door with the key out of the ignition (assuming the key was in LOCK position)opening my door a chiming went off. I later realized i had the key in the ACC position and when i tried to depress the key to the OFF position, i was met with resistance and ultimately could not. I am able to turn on the car but i realized that my key is can easily come out of the ignition when it is on ACC and ON/START while the car is on as well -- YIKES

b. while noticing problem a, I attempted to automatically lock the doors (with driver door open) and locks automatically unlocked immediately.

c. assuming lock and chime would work correctly if i closed door and manually locked door from outside, I did just that and realized that the chime DID STOP and the 4 doors did lock after manually locking the driver door from the outside. HOWEVER, I noticed that my CLOCK was ON. Did not think this would be an issue but it ended up draining my battery (older battery that needed replacing anyway but still) and I'm assuming it was the Clock that expedited the battery drainage.

What I tried so far:

1. Blew compressed air in key hole, cleaned main key with FOB (evidently bent but still works), after poured nail polish remover and quickly inserted into key hole while moving it left and right, and inserting and removing too.

2. removed the ignition lock cylinder/tumbler assembly(not cylinder switch that is behind it/separate module with a black blade like male component potruding out of it, it was dirty or damaged and it looked fine, I noticed the black blade and with some pliers i tested turning the car on (Worked) and turning the car OFF/LOCK (did not move pass ACC)

3. i tried replacing the tumbler assembly with this part (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...bed9c8/locksmart-ignition-lock-cylinder/lc63040/4418812/1999/toyota/camry?pos=2) by following this youtube vid (

), and still the same issue except this time, the keys that came with this new Locksmart ignition lock cylinder, could not be removed from the ACC and START/ON position.

Additional Info -- I did realize that when i removed the tumbler assembly, I was able to lock the doors fine even when the driver door was opened (1/2 issue solved, YAY !!)

Anyways, my questions to you are:

1. What in the world is that male black blade like component protruding out of the ignition switch module (im assuming it attaches to the female slit of the tumbler assembly)

2. why is that blade thingy NOT turning with my pliers firmly grasped even when i removed the tumbler assembly?

3. What suggestions or solutions should I try next ?

can you please be as detailed as possible (I am just a layman) because on top of fixing the issue i want to know the science behind why something like this would occur.