3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've been a car guy for years, and currently have a 550+hp Evolution IX SE as a project/weekend car, BUT I am very new to the world of Toyota.
My girlfriend of 4 years has a 98' Camry XLE V6 that her parents gave her when they moved to the Middle East last year. Since then we have moved in together, and I have absolutly no idea what has been done to this car. Her parents have always maintained their cars VERY well, but the only things that would have been performed is what the shop they take it too reccomends or tells them should be done. I'm lost simply because with all of my cars I know exactly has been done, when, at what KM etc and keep perfect records of the mentioned .... but not with this. Now, my questions:
The car is 264,000km's (about 165,000miles) and I have a list of questions. Feel free to quote, then answer each if you can. I would REALLY appreciate the help.
x What problems do this generation Camry have, including every aspect of the car (V6 Auto, btw.)
x At 165K Miles (without knowing the service history) What should be performed on the car?
x How many miles will the V6 go for if properly maintained?
x The car requires about $1000 worth of bodywork before the next inspection. Is it worth performing (i.e. would the car last long enough to do so?)
x Should Toyota's be undercoated? We live on the East Coast of Canada with cold winters and lots of salt. Do the floors of these cars rot?
x Do toyota require transmission flushes? VW for example have "lifetime fluid"
x For an entire tuneup on the V6, what would you recomend?
x What else should I know about this car? What upcoming problems could I find, what is absolutly detromental to the cars health in the world of Toyota that I may not be aware of?
The car still drives beautifully for what it is. I'm itching to purchase an 09' Clean diesel TDI for her as a daily, but I just can't bring myself to do it because this car NEVER gives us greif ... so I figure it's worth running into the ground.
Any help, questions, suggestions, etc would be MUCH appreciated!
I've been a car guy for years, and currently have a 550+hp Evolution IX SE as a project/weekend car, BUT I am very new to the world of Toyota.
My girlfriend of 4 years has a 98' Camry XLE V6 that her parents gave her when they moved to the Middle East last year. Since then we have moved in together, and I have absolutly no idea what has been done to this car. Her parents have always maintained their cars VERY well, but the only things that would have been performed is what the shop they take it too reccomends or tells them should be done. I'm lost simply because with all of my cars I know exactly has been done, when, at what KM etc and keep perfect records of the mentioned .... but not with this. Now, my questions:
The car is 264,000km's (about 165,000miles) and I have a list of questions. Feel free to quote, then answer each if you can. I would REALLY appreciate the help.
x What problems do this generation Camry have, including every aspect of the car (V6 Auto, btw.) none really
x At 165K Miles (without knowing the service history) What should be performed on the car? The usual stuff. All the fluids, (engine,brake,tranny,power steering) And if need be the spark plugs, pcv value, air filter and possible fuel filter
x How many miles will the V6 go for if properly maintained? Also possibly timing belt and water pump if never changed before. A lot. If properly maintained i would say 300k isnt out of the question
x The car requires about $1000 worth of bodywork before the next inspection. Is it worth performing (i.e. would the car last long enough to do so?)
x Should Toyota's be undercoated? We live on the East Coast of Canada with cold winters and lots of salt. Do the floors of these cars rot? I thought they came from the factory with protection
x Do toyota require transmission flushes? VW for example have "lifetime fluid" "lifetime fluid" so you mean you never change the fluid and when the tranny brakes, you get a new car.
x For an entire tuneup on the V6, what would you recomend? What i said above but if you really love fixing stuff, you might want to take a look at the suspension and bushings.
x What else should I know about this car? What upcoming problems could I find, what is absolutly detromental to the cars health in the world of Toyota that I may not be aware of? none really
The car still drives beautifully for what it is. I'm itching to purchase an 09' Clean diesel TDI for her as a daily, but I just can't bring myself to do it because this car NEVER gives us greif ... so I figure it's worth running into the ground.
Any help, questions, suggestions, etc would be MUCH appreciated!
Thanks for taking the time to help me out.
Cheers,
Zach Bedford
done.
__________________
1995 Camry V6 LE - Sold
1998 Camry LE
1992 SC300 5SPD
1992 SC400
Now, to be more specific could you answer these for me? I'll get done what you suggested.
x With 165K miles, should I change to a high miliage oil? What weight should I be running in this car? It has whatever the shop has been putting in for years past.
x What spark plugs are reccomended? I'm taking a 1000km trip on Sunday so I will replace them tomorrow.
x Does diff' fluid need to be changed on these cars?
x What brake fluid do you suggest?
x What tranny fluid do I purchase, and how often should the change be performed?
How long are you planning to keep the car? If the body damage has exposed bare metal rust can start and be difficult to stem. Rust will occur on exposed metal and parts.
Do you know when the timing belt was changed?
The fluid type will be stamped on the trans dipstick. If Dexron III or Toyota Type IV (T-IV) replace it every 30K miles for best trans life.
If you cannot find Dexron III look for its replacement. Read the body to make sure it is approved for trans using Dexron III. Any major brand of fluid is OK. Don't sub T-IV for Dexron III. T-IV is a Toyota product.
The diff fluid may be connected to the trans and use the same type fluid. Look under the diff where the axles install for a drain. If a separate fill point look on the back and side for plug but there may be just a unmachined mount for the plug.
Engine oil 10W-30 should be OK unless extreme cold. The owners manual will have details. Any major brand is OK.
Tune up would be plugs. Cap and rotor if the engine still uses them. Denso or NGK are good plugs to use in this engine. If the engine uses dual electrode plugs make sure you replace with the same type. This plug has 2 ground electrodes.
Replacing the rear plugs can be difficult due to space limitations. Read up first by doing a TN search, the AutoZone website has a vehicle repair section for this car.
Beside rust not changing the trans and engine fluids can result in major expenses.
Use something to pump out the power steering reservoir and replace with new fluid. Do the 3-4 times with driving in-between and the fluid will be clean. The PS reservoir cap will have the fluid type used, it may be autotrans fluid.
DOT 4 approved brake fluid is the latest. Don’t use DOT 5, this is silicone. Any major brand will be fine.
Your in Canada so i would use 5w-30 fluid. I use mobile 1 personally. Also the v6 doesnt have a cap n rotor. So all you need to change is plugs (and wires if they look worn or brittle). Pepboys sells NGK brand plugs and the dealership sells denso brand plugs. Either are fine, just ask an employee to get you the right one. Plus on the v6 the differential fluid circulates with the tranny fluid. So when you change the tranny fluid, you change the differential fluid as well.
Oh ya the rear plugs kinda suck for someone doing it the first time. You need to remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts securing the plenum to the head. And 2 bolts between the plenum and the firewall.
__________________
1995 Camry V6 LE - Sold
1998 Camry LE
1992 SC300 5SPD
1992 SC400
Last edited by Albuynp Ryeno; 01-23-2009 at 10:39 PM.
I thought I would follow up on this thread, to thank everyone for the help.
I changed the rear struts with new KYB's, KYB strut mounts, checked the bushings as suggested, and changed the front Endlinks.
The car got a new air filter, NGK platinum plugs, full tranny flush with new fluid, timing belt, oil change, Nordic Winter tires, a clear undercoating, and did the bodywork since you seemed to make it worth while.
I do however, have one more question!
As suggested above as well, 5W30 is what I've been using and stuck to a FRAM filter and Valvoline oil, but now Valvoline is very hard to find. The car has 170,000 miles on it and doesn't burn a drop, so I stuck with what it's used for years, BUT, what would be the best next option now that I can't find it in stores? What have you had great luck with?
Also, the timing belt is being changed this Sunday ... I just bought an OEM belt from the dealer ... is there anything else that should be changed during the timing belt service while it's apart?
You need to make sure the differential fluid is changed out as well. This fluid shares the same dipstick tube but has a different reservoir and can't be "flushed out" using the fluid exchanger at a shop. (It's really not a "flush" machine anyway but a fluid exchanger).
Valvoline is a decent oil. But during the winter you may want to go with Mobil-110W-30 and Motorcraft FL400S filter. During the summer I think even Walmart SuperTech 10W-30 is fine. The FL400S is a larger version of the stock filter. But if you insist only on stock size then look for Purolator PureOne filter PL10241 (standard size) or PL20195 (larger size, comparable to FL400S). These filter better than the Fram or the cheaper version Purolator Premium Plus.
You can use Walmart SuperTech Dexron III compatible ATF, if you don't want to go with Mobil-1 ATF. IIRC there was a GM TSB saying not to use Dexron VI in certain older cars. So I'd stay away from the D-VI for now.
Wait on the timing belt while you get more parts. The OEM timing belt is probably a Bando or Mitsuboshi. They're decent but I prefer Gates belts and hoses better. I'd return the dealer belt and get a Gates Timing Kit (see below). A complete timing belt job should include:
(older price list $USD from rockauto.com
GATES TCK257 timing component kit $89.79
(timing belt, two pulleys and a brief instrution sheet)
FEL-PRO TCS45890 crank seal $6.27
FEL-PRO TCS45889 cam seal set $8.55
GATES K060410 Alt/AC belt $13.09
GATES K040345 PS belt $8.61
AISIN/Toyota water pump $61.79
It's a good time to change out the PCV valve and grommet (Fram or dealer works fine here, ~$10USD). Get a Fram ATF kit (strainer+gasket) for about $15USD. Consider doing the valve cover gasket set and check the valve clearances while they're off.
Also, how do you plan to hold the crank sprocket while you loosen/tighten the bolt?
The car got a new air filter, NGK platinum plugs, full tranny flush with new fluid, timing belt, oil change, Nordic Winter tires, a clear undercoating, and did the bodywork since you seemed to make it worth while.
I do however, have one more question!
As suggested above as well, 5W30 is what I've been using and stuck to a FRAM filter and Valvoline oil, but now Valvoline is very hard to find. The car has 170,000 miles on it and doesn't burn a drop, so I stuck with what it's used for years, BUT, what would be the best next option now that I can't find it in stores? What have you had great luck with?
Also, the timing belt is being changed this Sunday ... I just bought an OEM belt from the dealer ... is there anything else that should be changed during the timing belt service while it's apart?
What makes you choose a 10w30 over the 5w30, which is suggested from Toyota?
I've completly followed your advice. I will return the belt to Toyota tomorrow, and have ordered the following from autopartsway.ca
Timing Belt Kit (belt, idler, tensioner)
PCV Valve
PCV Valve Gromet
Power Steering Belt
Alt. / AC Belt
The total, in CDN dollars was $284.97 with tax, shipped to my door.
Any other suggestions? If this car lasts another couple years, it would put my girlfriend and I in a fantastic financial sitsuation, so any help is appreciated! my Evo IX is almost paid off, and that will free up some cash to get her the new daily she deserves.
5W30 oil for winter.
Stick with a Dexron 3 fluid. GM had several of their cars with transmissions that do not work with DexVI (toyota clones, some suzuki/daewoo clones, saab, that se Aisin transmissions)
The filter suggested is longer, so you need to make sure that the oil filter wrench you use to take it off will get it loosened.
I use a cap style 'socket' and found that a strap type wrench was needed to take the longer filter off.
What is the body repair needed??
__________________
2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
The body work is just one specific area really. The rear drivers quarter just above the wheel, and just along the arch ... it started to rust there years ago but the previous owners let it go ... and as we all know, rust spreads like cancer, so I'm just taking care of that in the garage as best I can before the winter, to stop it from spreading.
The body work is just one specific area really. The rear drivers quarter just above the wheel, and just along the arch ... it started to rust there years ago but the previous owners let it go ... and as we all know, rust spreads like cancer, so I'm just taking care of that in the garage as best I can before the winter, to stop it from spreading.
How bad is it? Does it have holes yet?
Easiest thing to do would be to sand, prime and paint.
Post some pics of it and we can help you out even more.
I should have mentioned, as I often do, "use the thickest approved oil for the temperature range." We never get cold here, but you're in Canada.
As far as I can tell, say in Toronto, gets down to a max -32 degC in the winter. In those kind of temperatures you'll need (Mobil-1) 5W-30. My bad!
The smaller the viscosity spread the less viscosity modifiers are used in the oil. When these modifiers break down, you'll end up with a thinner oil. These are the old thinking with dino oils. So if the temperature permits, I'd go with 10W-30 over 5W-30, even if you can use 5W-30 in all temp ranges.
Now fully synthetic oils, such as Mobil-1 0W-40 meeting the stringent MB 229, BMW LL01, and Audi/VW 502/505 is another story.
I thought Canadian parts would cost lower. But at least you don't have to deal with import taxes and such!
How about the OEM water pump and thermostat? (I recommend people to get OEM here but I always use NAPA aftermarket.) Use Toyota Red coolant with distilled water. Good time to replace the radiator cap as well. Toyota Red is easiest because you don't need to flush out the system as recommended when changing coolant.
However, if you want to go with extended drain coolants (Zerex Asian Imports or Peak Global), make sure the rad cap has a spring loaded return valve (such as many Stant rad caps), not the OEM hang-loose plastic valve because the system is open to the atmosphere when cold. I'm thinking of early Dexcool corrosion problems here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROZACH
autopartsway.ca
Timing Belt Kit (belt, idler, tensioner)
PCV Valve
PCV Valve Gromet
Power Steering Belt
Alt. / AC Belt
The total, in CDN dollars was $284.97 with tax, shipped to my door.
Any other suggestions? If this car lasts another couple years, it would put my girlfriend and I in a fantastic financial sitsuation, so any help is appreciated! my Evo IX is almost paid off, and that will free up some cash to get her the new daily she deserves.
Easiest thing to do would be to sand, prime and paint.
Post some pics of it and we can help you out even more.
There was a small hole on the edge of the quarter, but I've filled it since. it was a piss poor job in the spring, BUT I'll do it again. I'll take a few pictures and would REALLY appreciate your advice! Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
I should have mentioned, as I often do, "use the thickest approved oil for the temperature range." We never get cold here, but you're in Canada.
As far as I can tell, say in Toronto, gets down to a max -32 degC in the winter. In those kind of temperatures you'll need (Mobil-1) 5W-30. My bad!
The smaller the viscosity spread the less viscosity modifiers are used in the oil. When these modifiers break down, you'll end up with a thinner oil. These are the old thinking with dino oils. So if the temperature permits, I'd go with 10W-30 over 5W-30, even if you can use 5W-30 in all temp ranges.
Now fully synthetic oils, such as Mobil-1 0W-40 meeting the stringent MB 229, BMW LL01, and Audi/VW 502/505 is another story.
Is all Mobil 1 synthetic, these days? The car has only used conventional for 170,000 miles and I'd like to keep it that way. Sorry for my lack of oil knowledge. I've only used synthetics for years in everything other then this 'inherited' car of the girlfriends, and use a full-race conditioner free AMSOIL in the Evolution, so that's a different oil world again. Anyway, so, Mobil 1 5w30 conventional is what is suggested?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnGD
I thought Canadian parts would cost lower. But at least you don't have to deal with import taxes and such!
How about the OEM water pump and thermostat? (I recommend people to get OEM here but I always use NAPA aftermarket.) Use Toyota Red coolant with distilled water. Good time to replace the radiator cap as well. Toyota Red is easiest because you don't need to flush out the system as recommended when changing coolant.
However, if you want to go with extended drain coolants (Zerex Asian Imports or Peak Global), make sure the rad cap has a spring loaded return valve (such as many Stant rad caps), not the OEM hang-loose plastic valve because the system is open to the atmosphere when cold. I'm thinking of early Dexcool corrosion problems here.
Yeah, the parts from the US were cheaper, but I've learned my lesson over the years. I'd end up paying a small fortune in duty, shipping, etc and end up waiting 3 times longer for them to arrive to spend the exact same, or more
I will do the coolant tomorrow. Are there any problems just running a pre-mixed standard antifreeze? My friend at his shop will flush the system for me, and the Toyota dealer will be closed tomorrow so the Toyota red is out of the question (His shop is 45 minutes away, and I'll be there tomorrow to get the majority of the above work done.) What would be the next best option? is a standard prestone mixed antifreeze going to work okay, or would it hinder the coolant system in any way?
Thanks again guys! I've done everything that has been suggested so far, so I really want you to know your knowledge and help is being put to good use!
EDIT: The waterpump I will need to do in the spring. It isin't in the budget right now (I'm in the middle of having 4WS tune the Evo, plus a new Wideband 02 sensor and knock sensor ... every penny seems to be going to cars this month!)
Mobil-1 is the synthetic line. Plain "Mobil" is their dino line. So if you want dino only, then 5W-30 Mobil for the winter should be fine. Mobil makes re-labeled oils for Toyota.
I actually prefer Valvoline (Ashland) dino over Mobil, but use whatever is cheapest (such as Chevron, Shell, Havoline, etc). People also liked Castrol GTX (BP, formerly British Petroleum).
I use all oils off the store shelf. And the only lube I mail order is Redline CV-2 synthetic grease for ball joints and repacking CV joints.
As far as coolant goes. See if you can source Valvoline's Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, or Peak Global. The only thing with Prestone is the 2EHA plasticizer in there, which Toyota and Honda want to avoid. So I'd stay away from that at least for now. But some owners reported at least no short-term problems with Prestone All-Makes. So YMMV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PROZACH
Is all Mobil 1 synthetic, these days? The car has only used conventional for 170,000 miles and I'd like to keep it that way. Sorry for my lack of oil knowledge. I've only used synthetics for years in everything other then this 'inherited' car of the girlfriends, and use a full-race conditioner free AMSOIL in the Evolution, so that's a different oil world again. Anyway, so, Mobil 1 5w30 conventional is what is suggested?
I will do the coolant tomorrow. Are there any problems just running a pre-mixed standard antifreeze? My friend at his shop will flush the system for me, and the Toyota dealer will be closed tomorrow so the Toyota red is out of the question (His shop is 45 minutes away, and I'll be there tomorrow to get the majority of the above work done.) What would be the next best option? is a standard prestone mixed antifreeze going to work okay, or would it hinder the coolant system in any way?
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