Brake light of my 94 Camry doesn't work

[max_dhn]

Hi,

It's a 94 Camry. The 3rd brake light still works, but the other two don't work. All the rest lights including the stop light work.

I've chcked the bulbs. The bulbs for the brake lights are good and have dual filaments. The corresponding fuses have been check, and no problem for them.

What could be other possible reasons? Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks in advance!

[5SlowFE]

Did both lights suddenly stop working at the same time? Is the burnt bulb warning light in the gauge cluster on? I've seen the module that controls that light fail. It's in the trunk, on the outboard side of the l/h trunk hinge.

[new echo owner]

Can yo clarify this part: "The 3rd brake light still works, but the other two don't work. All the rest lights including the stop light work." What other two don't work, brake lights? 'stop light work', stop light = brake light?

N.E.O.

[max_dhn]

Originally Posted by 5SlowFE

Did both lights suddenly stop working at the same time? Is the burnt bulb warning light in the gauge cluster on? I've seen the module that controls that light fail. It's in the trunk, on the outboard side of the l/h trunk hinge.

Actually, I havn't noticed it untill my friend told me. So I don't know what is the exact time they refused to work.
Yes, the burnt bulb warning light on the dashboard is on. I'll check the module you mentioned and update the thread. Thanks a lot!!

[max_dhn]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

Can yo clarify this part: "The 3rd brake light still works, but the other two don't work. All the rest lights including the stop light work." What other two don't work, brake lights? 'stop light work', stop light = brake light?

N.E.O.

Thanks for your reply.

The 3rd brake light at the bottom of the rear glass still works, but two rear brake lights don't work. Saying "the stop light works", because I think the stop light and the brake light share the same socket and the bulb has dual filaments, is this correct?

[5SlowFE]

If you don't know how long the lights have been out, or if they failed together, it's possible it's just the bulbs. Try new ones even if they still look good. That module is VERY expen$$$ive!

[Mike6412]

Change the bulbs, on mine I checked mine with a meter and they showed good but would not work. Might have been some corrosion in the socket also.

[new echo owner]

Originally Posted by max_dhn

Thanks for your reply.

The 3rd brake light at the bottom of the rear glass still works, but two rear brake lights don't work. Saying "the stop light works", because I think the stop light and the brake light share the same socket and the bulb has dual filaments, is this correct?

The brake lights are also refer to as the stop lights. You are probably referring to the tail lights, which shares the socket with some of the brake/stop lights.

N.E.O.

[max_dhn]

Originally Posted by 5SlowFE

If you don't know how long the lights have been out, or if they failed together, it's possible it's just the bulbs. Try new ones even if they still look good. That module is VERY expen$$$ive!

Is the module a small yellow box with the print of "Lamp failure ... " on it? I found it and I didn't spot any evidence of burning or breaking.

I checked the sockets, they are fine without corrosion.

I'll change bulbs and see how it goes.

[toyomoho]

If changing the bulbs does not solve the problem check for power at the stop light power wire coming out of the yellow box. Might be Green/Red but will be the same color as the wires going to the lower stop lights.

If no power when brake pedal is pushed the sensor may be defective.

[5SlowFE]

Is the module a small yellow box with the print of "Lamp failure ...

Yes that's it, but don't worry about it until you've eliminated the easy stuff ( new bulbs, check for power coming out of the module ). When mine failed it showed no external evidence ( no burns, damage, loose connection etc. ). If you still think it's the module, borrow one from a buddy's Camry to try it first, so you don't spend $$$ for nothing.

[new echo owner]

Originally Posted by max_dhn

Is the module a small yellow box with the print of "Lamp failure ... " on it? I found it and I didn't spot any evidence of burning or breaking.

I checked the sockets, they are fine without corrosion.

I'll change bulbs and see how it goes.

Did you open it up to check it or did you just check the outside of the Lamp Failure Sensor for burnt mark?

N.E.O.

[max_dhn]

Originally Posted by new echo owner

Did you open it up to check it or did you just check the outside of the Lamp Failure Sensor for burnt mark?

N.E.O.

Hi, I opened the Lamp Failure Sensor and did spot that one of the line on the board burned out. I thought that's it. I connected the burned line (I think it's made of Cu alloy) by aluminum just to make sure whether it is the problem. Yes, the brake lights were on the first time when I pressed the brake pad! But they went out for the second time I pressed the pad. I opened the Sensor, that line burned out. I thought it might be due to the aluminum, so I changed for iron wire for another try. Yes, the lights were on for the first press and went off for the second.

At least, the bulbs were proved to be good. This Sensor just keeps burning out. Could there be something more serious which makes the Sensor fail?

[5SlowFE]

It sounds like you have a short to ground, either directly through a chafed wire ( check the entire run of the wire between the sensor and lights for chafing/worn through insulation touching the body ) or through a connector. Start with the insulation since it's most likely. If that checks out, then you need to check continuity between the pins in the module and harness connectors, and ground ( make sure all have some resistance ). The only wires in the harness that should have 0 ohms resistance to ground are those wires that you can see are ground wires attached to the body.

[new echo owner]

Not 100% sure, but on a '94 there might be four stop lights in the back plus the third/high mount stop light; two on each side, one on the body and one on the trunk lid. If that is the case, it is possible that the wiring harness at the left trunk hinge has some broken wires and shorting together causing high current draw.

N.E.O.