3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
OK... So I pulled off a waterpump and seal change per dz63's sticky (thank you again, Don; you are a God-send) on my own car, and things went off without a hitch...
After doing that, I felt pretty confident in tackling a friend's snapped timing belt on her '95 Camry (mine is a '96)... It was unsuccessful, however, in that when I got it all back together and started it, it runs like poo, I mean, it runs UG-LEE!!! So, I decided to again walk in the footsteps of those who've preceded me in this, and per the HUNDREDS of timing-related threads here, I adjusted up a tooth, back a tooth, here and there, to and fro, yonder and close, well you get the point, and every time, it still runs, but runs like poo... So, I figured that I would adjust the timing at the distro to see if THAT would make the car happy, but I have one problem... I have NEVER used a timing light before, and so I do not know how to adjust timing that way...
Now, I've seen my Dad adjust timing (on an older car) by loosening the distro, starting the car, and turning the distro whichever way until the car smiles, and tightening the distro back down again... Is this a similar process? I also know that the timing light flickers so that you can see the mark on the crank pulley while the engine is running (albeit like poo)... Is this the same process?
I am familiar with the 10 degrees BTDC (per Toyota NOT Haynes), which simply means that while putting the belt on, I used the "0" on the crank pulley, but using a timing light, I would use the "10" mark correct?? If that is the case, then how does one adjust the crank pulley to that mark if it's spinning? (I have grown quite fond of my hands/arms, and would like to hang on to them for a little while longer!! )
I said all that to ask HOW DO I USE A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST TIMING???
There are Toyota factory service manuals stickied at the top of the Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com. I suggest you go over there and download the generation 3 service manaul. It should have the procedure with some pictures. You can download the manual for free.
I know that you will have to jumper TE1 and E1 inside the diagnostic connector, connect the timing light probe to the number 1 spark plug wire and connector the power and ground connectors of the timing light to the battery. Adjusting the timing itself should be loosening the distrbutor mounting bolts (there should be 2) and rotating the distributor while observing the timing mark with the light flashing on it. It will move as you turn the distributor. On most timing lights you pull the trigger and the light will flash every time the number 1 spark plug fires. When the timing is right, retighten the distributor hold down bolts.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 02-04-2009 at 02:20 PM.
OK... So I pulled off a waterpump and seal change per dz63's sticky (thank you again, Don; you are a God-send) on my own car, and things went off without a hitch...
After doing that, I felt pretty confident in tackling a friend's snapped timing belt on her '95 Camry (mine is a '96)... It was unsuccessful, however, in that when I got it all back together and started it, it runs like poo, I mean, it runs UG-LEE!!! So, I decided to again walk in the footsteps of those who've preceded me in this, and per the HUNDREDS of timing-related threads here, I adjusted up a tooth, back a tooth, here and there, to and fro, yonder and close, well you get the point, and every time, it still runs, but runs like poo... So, I figured that I would adjust the timing at the distro to see if THAT would make the car happy, but I have one problem... I have NEVER used a timing light before, and so I do not know how to adjust timing that way...
Now, I've seen my Dad adjust timing (on an older car) by loosening the distro, starting the car, and turning the distro whichever way until the car smiles, and tightening the distro back down again... Is this a similar process? I also know that the timing light flickers so that you can see the mark on the crank pulley while the engine is running (albeit like poo)... Is this the same process?
I am familiar with the 10 degrees BTDC (per Toyota NOT Haynes), which simply means that while putting the belt on, I used the "0" on the crank pulley, but using a timing light, I would use the "10" mark correct?? If that is the case, then how does one adjust the crank pulley to that mark if it's spinning? (I have grown quite fond of my hands/arms, and would like to hang on to them for a little while longer!! )
I said all that to ask HOW DO I USE A TIMING LIGHT TO ADJUST TIMING???
I put my timing light in storage after I sold my 84 Subaru. That was the last carb'ed car that I owned too.
I thought that the ECU advances or retards the timing bases on what input it is getting from the sensors. To change that manually, I have heard of programmable modules or chips that may do that and other things, but I have never looked into one.
I put my timing light in storage after I sold my 84 Subaru. That was the last carb'ed car that I owned too.
I thought that the ECU advances or retards the timing bases on what input it is getting from the sensors. To change that manually, I have heard of programmable modules or chips that may do that and other things, but I have never looked into one.
That depends on the engine. The 5s-fe has no knock sensors. And about a month after I advanced my timing, it is still just where I put it.
I figured out why it runs like poo... Every time I put the belt on, lined it up, and tightened it down, it would jump three to four teeth EVERY time I hit the *&#$^ ignition... So then, I decided to loosen the tensioner, and take up the slack counter clockwise over the cam and bunch up all the slack over the tensioner and release the tensioner and lock it back down again... THEN, it jumped two teeth (at least it wasn't three, now we're getting somewhere)... I decided in the end (and 4 hours) that the tensioner needed to be replaced, so she's gonna get another one tomorrow...
Man, things are HARD out here for a girl with a tool box... Now I see why mechanics get paid so much...
Unless the bearing is bad, the tensioner itself won't affect how the timing belt lines up. Did you tighten down the tensioner before you hit the ignition? Don't mean to imply, just checking.
If I remember correctly, there is also a update spring for the tensioner for some of the 5sfe, more coils and shorter.
Unless the bearing is bad, the tensioner itself won't affect how the timing belt lines up. Did you tighten down the tensioner before you hit the ignition? Don't mean to imply, just checking.
If I remember correctly, there is also a update spring for the tensioner for some of the 5sfe, more coils and shorter.
N.E.O.
OK, fine... ya got me there... The first time, no, I did not... But every other time, I did, and it still skips teeth...I'll try it again tomorrow, but I called it a night because I was getting frustrated and had daydreams of taking a BFH to it...
OK, fine... ya got me there... The first time, no, I did not... But every other time, I did, and it still skips teeth...I'll try it again tomorrow, but I called it a night because I was getting frustrated and had daydreams of taking a BFH to it...
I learned a long time ago, never get mad at the car you are working unless someone else can finish the job for you; otherwise, you still have to deal with it after getting all worked up!
Anyway, what I usually do after routing the timing belt over the gears, I use a wrench to turn the cam gear to take up all the slack to the tensioner side. Then while tugging on the belt, loosen up the bolt to release the tensioner, but before tightening it back down, give the tensioner an additional tug before snugging down the bolt. Then turn the engine over BY HAND, a couple of full turns, and double check the timing marks. Turn the cam gear one more time to take up all the slack to the tensioner side, loosening the tensioner bolt and tug on tensioner one more time, then tighten the bolt and put everything back together.
BTW, the updated tensioner spring would be a good idea.
N.E.O.
Last edited by new echo owner; 02-04-2009 at 10:45 PM.
Reason: don't know how to spell!
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The first time, no, I did not... But every other time, I did, and it still skips teeth...I'll try it again tomorrow, but I called it a night because I was getting frustrated and had daydreams of taking a BFH to it...
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