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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 01-23-2004, 09:39 AM   #31 (permalink)
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This is in the engine side of the firewall. The hot/cold control from inside car connects to the coolant valve by means of sort of wire. This wire ends in the shaft of this valve that controls the passage of coolant through the heater core. This shaft is attached to the valve by a screw (3-5 mmm). Just follow the hot/cold air control wire and you will find it (get some body to move the control while you look in the area of the hoses comming into the firewall). Once you do it put you control in the cold position and then try to tie the screw. I hope that that is your problem. If not you could try to flush back the heater core with a regular hose. Desconnect and clamp the hoses comming into the core from the engine's side and flush back with water.
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Old 01-23-2004, 10:38 PM   #32 (permalink)
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thx for all the input, guys. I'm gonna try out the climate contol screw idea when I have some time, and when my hands thaw out a bit (jeez, it's cold!)
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Old 01-24-2004, 12:50 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I also solved my problem for the most part by running my engine without the radiator cap on for a bit because I had an air-bubble. But my heat could still be hotter. I'll check the slider control too.
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Old 01-24-2004, 01:13 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silver Streak

Well, I checked the temperature of my heater hoses going through the firewall. The one with the control valve is pretty warm, and the other one is just slightly warm. This is with the valve open and the fan on low. What does this mean?

Is my core is all plugged up? Does the coolant alway flow through the control valve first then into the core, and then back to the engine? I'm assuming the water pump cycles it through this heater core....

The core should not have any contaminants which would literally plug up the heater core. Usually a simple flush with a garden hose can clear out 95% of the crud in the cooling system. The direction of coolant flow technically shouldn't affect anything. You can have the coolant flowing either way through the core and it shouldn't matter. But of course, always route the hoses like the way it came from the factory

My procedure for diagnosing this problem would be:

- check for air in the coolant system. Do a simple bleed to the system. This will also let you know if the thermostat is still working properly.

- check for coolant condition. Bad coolant will lose its ability to absorb heat efficiently from the engine. Also check for coolant/water ratio. More water will usually allow better heat absorption = more heat in the coolant.

- Check for climate control cable. Check to see if the heater core control is actually 100% opened. This can be checked by looking for slack at the actual heater control flap at the firewall when the climate control is all the way at HOT.

- The last thing would be checking for actual engine temperature. Sometimes a bad maintained engine (worn plugs/wires/ignition system) will make the engine run rich all the time. This would actually cause the car to heat up a lot slower.
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Old 01-26-2004, 11:00 AM   #35 (permalink)
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man, I should check my plugs too. What's an average lifetime for iridium spark plugs? I can kinda smell gas in the exhaust fumes at time of cold start (and when I say cold, I mean COLD! I'm sure you know, Tony, since you live in frigid T.O. too).

thx...

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Old 01-26-2004, 11:07 AM   #36 (permalink)
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