3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
ok so im going to be the noob to ask. i was browsing performance stuff for my camry on ebay and i came across a few of these turbo kits http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/POWER...Q5fAccessories
yes i kno they are for my engine which is a 1mz... BUT how hard would it be to take this idea and cut and weld the pipes to my liking to make it fit, any ideas.
and please no harsh comments.
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99 Camry XLE v6
-K&N drop-in filter
-15" alpine Sub 750w rms powered by 850w rms amp
-18" gun metal icw wheels
-red painted calipers
from what ive herd, if your gonna use the MR2 manifold you might as well use the turbo that fits. unless your lookin for high power the stock turbo works fine.
no one here has ever used one of these kits. 20K miles seems pertty lousey for lifetime before rebuild, but thats compared to stock turbos. another thing to think of...thats a $600 turbo kit...now me...i wouldnt trust that kit. personally i think it would be better to get the hardware kits that are sold instead, then get a good turbo you can actually have info on. but as i said...noen of us have used thoes kits before so theres no way to be 100%.
youd still have at least 1500 left in tuning, fuel, and fabrication.
C'mon guy. You can get 180 HP from your 5SFE for about the same cost as a 1MZ swap. Now if you want more than that from your 5S then you need the 1MZ LOL.
C'mon guy. You can get 180 HP from your 5SFE for about the same cost as a 1MZ swap. Now if you want more than that from your 5S then you need the 1MZ LOL.
Ok well assuming you do most of this work yourself......
Get yourself an engine stand and buy a yard 5SFE for a couple hundo. This way you can still drive your car while you piece together the engine. (This is optional of course). Now tear that engine apart and if the crank journals are okay and there is no damage to the skirts of the pistons or cylinder walls Go buy a cheap ball hone and run it through the empty cylinders with a power drill in a rapid up and down motion using LOTS OF OIL!!! until a decent cross-hatch is achieved. This will help your new piston rings seat properly. Be careful here. A new hone will take a lot of metal very rapidly. Now re-ring the pistons and install new bearings on the bottom end. I recommend plasti-gauging all the bearings, but again, if the crank journals are ok OEM bearings will do just fine. If you are feeling macho you can install forged rods and pistons but this is really not necessary unless you plan on boosting the hell out of it and at a cost of five or six hundo these parts are a luxury for most of us normal Joe's. Ok so now we have a nice fresh short-block. The next step is the expensive part but if you want power you pay the price. I don't consider this part to be optional. If you cut corners here you are setting yourself up for disappointment in the end. Now we are talking port and polish and extensive head modifications. Bare in mind that the P&P on this head will gain fairly good flow over stock. I recommend having the head crack checked before any of this. I am not going to go into details here about it here but if you are a DIY kinda person there is a good article on this process at the following link: http://meisners.net/camry/Head%20Por...Mods/index.htm
Now the cylinder head needs to goto a shop. Tell them you want the head crack checked and have them shave 16 thousandths off the deck. This will raise the engines compression and will result in more HP. Dont worry the 5SFE's stock bottom end can handle it. You will also want the shop to do a 5-angle valve job and install new stainless valves. Also make sure they check the valve springs for proper spring rates. Here you could go 1mm bigger on the intake side but this falls into the, "holy crap...you want how much"?? catagory. Ok so now the head is back together with the P&P and all the custom head work complete we need to focus on the cams. Unfortunately this part is not cheap either but once again, you want power, you pay the piper. You could just run the stock cams and you will have a good amount of power gain over stock but once you drop in performance cams you will not be disappointed. Send your cams to WebCam's and ask for the 294 grind for the 5SFE. They will hard weld your old cams and regrind them for $698. Expensive? Yes. WebCams's site can be found here: http://www.webcamshafts.com/
When you get the cams back install them in the head and torque the head back on the block to factory specs using new head bolts, (I recommend ARP for these), and a metal head gasket like the ones available from Cometic. Now you could stop here if you wanted and you would be faster and pull more power than 96% of all other 5S's on the road, but if you got a pair you still want more power. You now have a superior platform for a boosted application. There are plenty of threads out there on that subject. Just remember that you need to run 92 octane fuel and limit the amount of boost introduced to the engine on account of the compression change. I cannot tell you exactly how much boost is safe given that compression change but I wouldnt run any more than 8-10 psi.
^ I'm not reading that since it mostly seems to be rambling...especially since for some he's rambling about the 5sfe for some reason
so I'll add my 2 cents for this one
the only ebay parts that are usually not worth using, or use at your own risk, are the turbos/wastegates/turbo manifolds
everything else is usually okay to use, including intercooler, oil fittings, etc.
some people (usually hondas here, I'm talking about, since they are usually the ones using these parts) have great luck with their ebay turbos and manifolds and they run them for years with no problems. others, their turbos fall apart or seize in a couple years if not less, and their exhaust manifolds crack in about a year as well. the turbos are then usually replaced with a non-ebay one and the exhaust manifolds are welded up where it cracked and then the kits can usually run forever afterwards.
so...it's pretty much the luck of the draw with that stuff
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