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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-03-2009, 07:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transmission help...

On my V6 XLE in my sig:

When I get in the car either first thing in the morning (been very cold lately) or after the car has been sitting through the day at my job (been mid 60s-low 70s lately) the transmission will NOT shift from first gear like it should. If I start driving, it will redline unless I let off the gas. I have to drive at like 4000 rpm for a good 10-20 seconds, sometimes longer, until it finally shifts. And when it finally shifts, it feels like it shifts to 2nd and then 3rd really quickly...like it's almost skipping a gear.

What could be causing this? Transmission fluid level is good.

Any help would be awesome!
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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maybe a bad Shift solenoid

check engine light on?
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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No check engine light.
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If this is the original transmission and it's never been into, I suspect it's a worn out clutch pack in the transmission. If the car did 230K miles on an auto tranny. it earned it's pay.
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Funny enough, I spent like 45 mins talking to a friend about the A540E Auto tranny and the the 1-2 shift being the cause of most of the failures......

May need a rebuild.
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Old 03-04-2009, 10:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASG14 View Post
May need a rebuild.
If it's the original tranny and untouched up to this point I would say it's damn likely.
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When was the last time the trans fluid was flushed and replaced?
I've actually used this twice; http://www.transmaticsc.com/ once on an old Cressida and once on an old Mazda, worked both times. But I would recommend changing trans fluid first.
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:17 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
When was the last time the trans fluid was flushed and replaced?
I've actually used this twice; http://www.transmaticsc.com/ once on an old Cressida and once on an old Mazda, worked both times. But I would recommend changing trans fluid first.

Looks like it is some sort of drag reducer for the tranny fluid. Might work if your problem is a dirty control valve body. I doubt it will do much if the clutches are shot. Can't hurt I suppose and you do have one happy customer - Stillrunning - saying he has used it with some success.
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TexanF250 View Post
I doubt it will do much if the clutches are shot.
It's not meant to fix a mechanical break. But, for $30 it's not a bad try. I usually don't like/use/recommend additives but with the cost to fix a trans I thought the try was worth it - and for me it worked 2 out of 2.
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Old 03-05-2009, 10:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stillrunning View Post
It's not meant to fix a mechanical break. But, for $30 it's not a bad try. I usually don't like/use/recommend additives but with the cost to fix a trans I thought the try was worth it - and for me it worked 2 out of 2.
Absoluteley - I agree.
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Whenever a trans slips like that, it's usually a bad clutch pack or seal which is leaking and preventing the fluid pressure from building up enough to engage the clutch properly. I don't have enough experience with transmissions, but I would think that if it is doing this during cold periods, then maybe it started with a bad seal that is stiff and shrinks with the cold temps and becomes leaky or as someone mentioned, maybe there is contamination in the valve body which is affecting the valves. Either way, it does not matter too much since it implies a rebuild. Since the trans has already been slipping, the clutch pack(s) is likely damaged now anyways.

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Old 03-05-2009, 06:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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How can you tell it's slipping? I thought that if the RPMs went up but the car didnt move, then THAT was the tranny slipping. I can press and let go of the gas and the car moves accordingly..it just wont shift when it's supposed to.

The tranny is not original. It was rebuilt in 05 when the previous owner owned it (he gave me his small book that he logged in all work done). He didnt note how many miles the odometer had on it when this was done though. Spent almost $1900 on it. Dont want to go that route. If it DOES look like it's the tranny going bad, ill replace it myself with a used tranny with low miles.

I did a drain/fill several months ago. Fluid 'looks' good. He noted in his book that the tranny fluid was 'changed' in Sept '06.

I would like to note that I had the throttle body off (throttle and cruise cables removed) a month or so ago when I took the intake plenum off to replace the spark plugs. Could I have messed something up? It shifts fine after warmed up.
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2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
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Old 03-06-2009, 06:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The only component that uses temperature to determine shift points is the engine cooolant temp sensor, but it usually will not allow shift to OD when cold. You could have a sticking solenoid valve caused by weak solenoid or wear. Cold trans fluid will cause more drag on components and if one of the solenoids is sticking then the cold will make it worse. I'd try to pull a trans code and see if anything comes up.

Shift Solenoid SLN: Controls the hydraulic pressure applied to the back chamber of the accumulator and smooths the engagement of clutches and brakes during shifting

Shift Solenoids #1 & #2: Controls the hydraulic pressure applied to each shifts valve and controls the gear shift position and timing.

You can bench test the shift solenoids or take an ohm reading on their coils without removing them.
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Old 03-06-2009, 11:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeskier97 View Post
How can you tell it's slipping? I thought that if the RPMs went up but the car didnt move, then THAT was the tranny slipping. I can press and let go of the gas and the car moves accordingly..it just wont shift when it's supposed to.
Sorry, I miss-read your first post. Ya that doesn't sound like slipping. So you are not getting any codes being posted by the TCU? Getting codes out of that vs the ECU on the OBDI camrys is different isn't it?

If you had the TB/intake plenum off and the problem seemed to start after this, then maybe you did not hook up the throttle pressure cable going to the trans properly or somehow it has slipped off the cam on the valve body in the trans? Maybe manually pull on that cable near the intake and make sure you feel some resistance and the spring return that's in the valve body? As well, check your throttle sensor to make sure it is not loose and is connected.

Other than the obvious stuff, it may be a valve body or sticking solenoid problem. You can always have a go at the valve body yourself at try to replace the shift solenoids as a start. http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=1

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Old 03-06-2009, 07:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hmm..ok. I'll have to check the cables in the morning. Just strange that it only happens when the car is cold. And I know about not shifting into OD until the coolant reaches the correct temp. Both my car and the wife's LE work correctly in this manner. So no problem there.

About pulling the codes from the TCU (not sure what that is BTW). Im not sure how to do this, unless of course this is the same thing as pulling the codes for a CEL, in which case I know how to do that on this OBDI car. I did that not too long ago to find out my O2 sensor was bad.
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1993 Camry LE I4 Bone Stock - 380,000 miles (as of Aug '11)

1993 Camry XLE V6 Bone Stock - 260,xxx miles (as of July '11) Blown Head Gasket

2003 Chevy Trailblazer EXT I6 - 107,000 miles (as of Aug '11)
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