Cleaning the Heater Core - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Advertisement
Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001)

3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

ToyotaNation.com is the premier Toyota Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-05-2009, 10:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
New TN User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 13
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View toyo22r's Photo Gallery
Cleaning the Heater Core

I thought i would post what i did to unclog my heater core. In my case the heater was mediocore. It was warm but definitely not HOT like my FJ Cruiser. Then it got to the point where at idle I would get no heat at all. Only when the RPMs where up would i get luke-warm air. Here is what I did with fantastic results. (I had tried a "power flush" from Dobbs Tire first and basically was a waste of $100!)

I removed the heater hoses from the engine, thus isolating the heater core. I used the garden hose to flush out the old coolant and it trickled out the other hose. I bought a gallon of muriatic acid from the local harware store. Using a funnel in one of the hoses I poured the acid in until it started coming out the other hose. Then I flushed with water again and used compressed air to blow everything out. I noticed water flowing through much faster now. Repeated this procedure a second time. Then I filled the heater core with 50/50 mix of coolant unil it started flowing out the other hose, at which point I attached to the engine, continued to fill until the 2nd hose will full and reattached it back onto the engine. Filled the system, burped the air and checked the heat. Winds from Hell are blowing from my dash now. Using an IR thermometer it reads 165 degress from the vents! (My FJ with 30K miles on it measured 160 degrees)

So if your suffering from a weak heater definitely give this a shot before replacing the core!

Paul
toyo22r is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-05-2009, 11:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
mixed bag 'o vehicles
 
ghettosled's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: cleveland
Posts: 2,789
Gameroom cash: $157695
Thanks: 0
Thanked 77 Times in 64 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View ghettosled's Photo Gallery
great write-up! i need to do this at some point, but i will wait until spring when its warmer. i think all winter my fan speed was never below 2 in trying to sustain warm temps in the cabin.
__________________
ghettosled is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2009, 11:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 430
Gameroom cash: $118300
Thanks: 15
Thanked 142 Times in 51 Posts
Supreme Member
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View dz63's Photo Gallery
toyo22r - In the end, do you think it was the muriatic acid or the compressed air that solved the problem? Do you know if muriatic acid safe for all heater cores?
__________________
2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 80K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 54K miles
dz63 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2009, 12:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
New TN User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 13
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View toyo22r's Photo Gallery
I think the muriatic acid was the key. Iv'e heard you can use vinegar, but its not as acidic so you would have to leave it "soak" probably overnight. Now it does appear to react with aluminum as when it was coming out dropping on the transmission case i could hear is hissing and could smell the hydrochloric vapors but i just ran the water hose at the same time making sure it what was on the transmission remained diluted.
toyo22r is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2009, 01:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
Certifiably Insane
 
96paseo's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Carversville, PA
Posts: 1,454
Gameroom cash: $240515
Thanks: 32
Thanked 161 Times in 149 Posts
Lifetime Supreme Member
Garage
iTrader Score: 1 reviews
View 96paseo's Photo Gallery
Water will neutralize muriatic acid. Muriatic acid is commonly used as a stripper for many types of work. Just don't get it on your skin. Those gas tank restorer kits for motorcycles use it to remove rust. Muriatic acid breaks down oxides very well regardless of metal type. Just don't use it on anything galvanized or with a high zinc content.
__________________
1996 Paseo 5E-FE 270,xxx miles - LR parking brake seized. Time for new cables
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 281,xxx miles - Time to re-seal spark plug tubes. Ugh I hate winter...
1997 Mazda B2300 219,xxx miles - Engine/trans back in, drives great
96paseo is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2009, 09:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
TexanF250's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 101
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View TexanF250's Photo Gallery
Water does not neutralize muriatic acid. Water dillutes muriatic acid. Big difference. Muriatic acid is water soluable, hence the dillution. You would need a base of some sort to neutralize it.

Glad it worked out for you. I have to admit that I would not have had the balls to do this.

Last edited by TexanF250; 03-05-2009 at 09:24 PM.
TexanF250 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-05-2009, 09:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
Official TN Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Springfield Ma
Posts: 428
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Manny1337's Photo Gallery
got any pictures?
__________________
1998 Camry I4 2.2 Currently: 110k
Alpine Ida-x100, Polk Momo 6x9 (Rear), Polk DB651 (Front), Infinity Reference 475a, AudioQ Aq-1200, 4 Re X 8's <-- yes she slams
Manny1337 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-06-2009, 06:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
One with the force
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 1,526
Gameroom cash: $422950
Thanks: 0
Thanked 54 Times in 50 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
View Stillrunning's Photo Gallery
I think this idea is a good one but I will add the safety considerations below from Wikipedia;

"Hydrochloric acid is the solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) in water. It is a highly corrosive, strong mineral acid
Historically called muriatic acid or spirits of salt"

"Concentrated hydrochloric acid (fuming hydrochloric acid) forms acidic mists. Both the mist and the solution have a corrosive effect on human tissue, with the potential to damage respiratory organs, eyes, skin, and intestines. Upon mixing hydrochloric acid with common oxidizing chemicals, such as sodium hypochlorite (bleach, NaClO) or permanganate (KMnO4), the toxic gas chlorine is produced. Personal protective equipment such as rubber or PVC gloves, protective eye goggles, and chemical-resistant clothing and shoes are used to minimize risks when handling hydrochloric acid.[1]
The hazards of solutions of hydrochloric acid depend on the concentration."

I would also caution using muriatic acid in the full concentration from the container. Try to use the weakest possible solution.
__________________
1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
Stillrunning is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums > Toyota Passenger and Sports Car Forums > Camry and Solara Forum > 3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001)

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:36 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.