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3rd & 4th Generation (19921996 & 19972001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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#31 Old 05-08-2010, 08:56 AM
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Just got my radiator from 1-800-Radiator with lifetime warranty. $ 107.00 shipped. Now figuring how to remove the badly corroded bolts on bottom cover which covers the bottom of the radiator. Thinking of a way to drain the radiator without removing the bottom cover. Will do my project on monday.

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1995 Camry LE 5SFE 4 Cyl.
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#32 Old 07-03-2010, 01:27 AM
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139,000 miles and now it's my turn. I'm looking at autozone and I'm not seeing the VISTA-PRO Part # 432541 that's been listed. All I see is Spectra CU1909 and 432541. Side by side the specs look the same except the CU1909 seems to come with a cap. Autozone has the CU1909 for $139 Jcwhittney for $117 and best of all carparts.com for $93.

Any input on this Spectra CU1909?

Also I feel confident I can do this myself but I'm a little leery about how to fill this after the swap. How exactly do I get the air out or do I just filler it up then squeeze the hoses?
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#33 Old 07-03-2010, 01:31 PM
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Spectra Premium seems to be a crapshoot for me. Maybe they've improved. At least Autozone will give you lifetime warranty on those. The warranty is no nonsense. Great service. So maybe on that alone.

However, since Modine and TransPro merged into Proliance and got bought by Visteon Aftermarket, I'm more inclined to go with Vista-Pro (~ Visteon-Proliance). Because Visteon is a Tier-1 supplier -- I know, even if they used to supply to Detroit that used to make less than desirable products, and may source the radiator from the same factory that made the fleaBay radiators.

eBay has them shipped under $70 each with lifetime warranty. However, round trip shipping is probably over $40. I'd go with Autozone for the easy return. But with a properly maintained cooling system you probably won't need another rad before you get a new ride. So that's another reason they are confident in giving you the warranty.



Quote:
Originally Posted by envy View Post
139,000 miles and now it's my turn. I'm looking at autozone and I'm not seeing the VISTA-PRO Part # 432541 that's been listed. All I see is Spectra CU1909 and 432541. Side by side the specs look the same except the CU1909 seems to come with a cap. Autozone has the CU1909 for $139 Jcwhittney for $117 and best of all carparts.com for $93.

Any input on this Spectra CU1909?

Also I feel confident I can do this myself but I'm a little leery about how to fill this after the swap. How exactly do I get the air out or do I just filler it up then squeeze the hoses?

Last edited by JohnGD; 07-03-2010 at 01:32 PM.
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#34 Old 07-03-2010, 02:27 PM
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3rd Generation

Quote:
Originally Posted by envy View Post
139,000 miles and now it's my turn. I'm looking at autozone and I'm not seeing the VISTA-PRO Part # 432541 that's been listed. All I see is Spectra CU1909 and 432541. Side by side the specs look the same except the CU1909 seems to come with a cap. Autozone has the CU1909 for $139 Jcwhittney for $117 and best of all carparts.com for $93.

Any input on this Spectra CU1909?

Also I feel confident I can do this myself but I'm a little leery about how to fill this after the swap. How exactly do I get the air out or do I just filler it up then squeeze the hoses?

Just for the latter part of your question, you are right about getting the air out of system. When i changed my radiator last month or so, i exactly didnot understand how to bleed the air out. So what i did was, fill in the radiator with coolant just till you can see at the top. Then squeeze all the hoses SLOWLY, you dont want all the coolant on the floor. To make this exciting, i was thinking of a beautiful chick at my workplace how she would have done something to me. After that, fill it till the top level, one inch below the top of the inlet port. I drove around for some miles and periodically checked the coolant level and topping as required.

Goodluck.

Thanks,

Tekno 9000

1995 Camry LE 5SFE 4 Cyl.
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#35 Old 07-03-2010, 02:45 PM
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According to haynes,

You fill the rad to the top, and run the engine with the rad cap off and turn the heater on full blast.

Let engine idle untill it reaches normal operating tempature (where the needle on dash normally is when driving). Coolant will likely spill out during this step.

You can also gently squeeze the top hoses to remove some air while taking care to stand back from the rad and wearing safety glasses if necessary.

When it gets to this point you can run it a little bit longer, or shut it off and let it cool down.

Come back when the engine is cold (about 2 hours depending where you live), top up the radiator, and put the cap back on.

Fill the reserve bottle roughly half way.
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#36 Old 07-03-2010, 03:17 PM
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Bloody hell, just get a Koyo (Koyorad) from Auto Parts Warehouse (or one of the other online places) . ~100 to your doorstep, and it'll last as long as the original.

It's strange, but with a lot of stuff these days, the length of the warranty is inversely proportional to the quality. Car parts seem to be in that camp -- a "lifetime warranty" is almost a guarantee of crap.

Last edited by hill8570; 07-03-2010 at 03:19 PM.
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#37 Old 07-03-2010, 06:46 PM
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I recently dealt with this problem. I went with a low cost new radiator fro advanced auto parts. I payed about $130 for the radiator. Installation is pretty straight forward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thetick247 View Post
99 Camry LE, 4-cyl, auto, 150k miles

I noticed steam yesterday coming from the grill area while at stoplights. Turns out I have a number of fine cracks along the top plastic cover of the radiator. I'm not losing an large amount of coolant but I'm sure this is probably only the be beginning of the problem.

I tried searching & that area is frequently mentioned as a potential problem area, but there didn't seem to be any info on a way to fix this problem.

My assumption is that this top cover is not replacable, it's the whole radiator or nothing. What I wanted to know is if there's any way to repair this area. External solutions might be high-temp epoxy, jb weld, maybe some type of high-temp adhesive/sealant tape (?), etc. Internal solutions I imagine are limited to some kind of "stop leak" additive.

Are any of these viable solutions (either temporary or permanent) and if so, which stand the best chance of working.

Also, if radiator replacement is the only option, what kind of price range should I expect for a new radiator (the part) and how many hours can I expect to be charged for by a mechanic to replace it.

Thanks for any input you can give!
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#38 Old 07-09-2010, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for all the insight on this.

I managed to get this done today. I am the outcast and went with the Spectra. It came with the 2 brass fittings installed, radiator cap and the drain plug. For the most part it was a perfect fit. I had a little trouble getting the fan bolt holes to line up perfect. It was probably just me as I put the radiator in then did the fans. I did the thermostat and hoses. I wanted to go with a OEM thermostat but the prices at my dealer seem pretty high so I just did a cheap duralast.

Everything went smoothly. I wish I would have got 3 new clamps for the small hoses. Also the rookie I am I put the radiator in and was wondering why the bottom is so loose. The old radiator had 2 rubber feet on it that has to be transfered over. My top driver side mount is a little worn, so I will be on the look out for some new ones.

Also I check my trans fluid and didn't need to add any yet. I did come across some bad news with that. My fluid was black. I'm not up for a trans filter job myself. Last time I tried I must have over tightened the gasket because it leaked. I'm going to have to find a shop for that I think.
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#39 Old 07-10-2010, 01:51 PM
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If you put in yer radiator yerself...you can do the trans fluid yerself. It's just as easy. Just make sure you git enough trans fluid...I got mine at Walmart in the gallon jugs (3 gallons to be on the safe side).

It will just take a little more time and effort if you only have yerself but it will be well worth the cost.

1998 T-100 SR5 2WD auto, Roadmaster Active suspension, oil catch jar, AC mod, aero cap, lower aero package, 67% grill block
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