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3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 03-22-2009, 01:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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95 2.2 No Start

95 Camry Won't Start
1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 Automatic 200000 miles w/ca emissions.

I have a 95 Camry that won't start. It first started with hesitation when taking off from a stop and then progressed to wouldn't start when hot after sitting for over 10 minutes. If you started it up right away when hot hit would start but not after sitting. I replaced the temp sending unit and that seemed to cure that problem. I still had a engine miss. I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches. I cleaned my throttle body and egr. I checked my ignition coil and it was close to resistance limit so i replaced it. After replacing the coil it wouldn't start. I found that i had a broken wire at the harness connector at the distributor. I replaced that and it still won't start.

I have fuel at the right pressure getting to the plugs, The plugs are firing and I have 150 psi compression in all 4 cylinders. I have check the engine timing to make sure the rotor is at number 1 when on the compression stroke. I have back probed the ecm and every single test is within specs (map, igniter & distributor pickup).

It will start but just barely like it's not hitting on all cylinders and will die. I even jumped the diagnostic connector but to avail. I back fires thru the intake and acts like it's out of time. I changed the ecm but still nothing. If the egr is stuck open would this cause these symptoms ? It ran until I took off the egr and throttle body. Any help would appreciated.
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You checked the fuel pressure with a guage?

Jump the FP and B+ terminals located in the same box as the diagnostic tester to bypass the fuel pump relays.
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If I get your question right, your car will start when the engine hot (normal temp.)?

Will your engine start when the engine is cold?
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I can't get it to run period. If I advance the distributor to the max it will start and run just barely for a few seconds and then dies and back fires out of the throttle body. I have good spark, fuel pressure is fine, 150 psi in all 4 cylinders and the rotor is at number 1 with the engine at TDC. I have back probe the ecm and performed all test and everything checked out ok. I changed the ecm but still wont stay running. I'm going to try and block off the egr to see if it got stuck open. Any body have any other ideas?
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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have you check your distributor wires and distributor itself? are you sure those are still in spec or good?
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yes the wires and the cap and rotor are brand new bought them after it started having the no start. the spark plugs are less than a year old and I took them out and they had good spark and I tested them each using the corresponding plug wire for that cylinder. The pickup in the distributor check out with ohm meter and it's within specs according to the Mitchell and Motors manuals.

If the pickup was bad I probably wouldn't be getting spark. I changed the ecm but still will not stay running. I blocked off the egr but still will not stay running. If I advance the distributor it will start with my foot on the gas and get up to about 2000 rpms for a few seconds but not running quite right like it's not quite hitting on all cylinders then dies popping back thru the throttle body. I've tried changing around old ecm with new ign coil new ecm (used) with old ign coil. I'm at a loss.
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Old 03-22-2009, 06:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgrego5558 View Post
I had 20inches vacuum but the needle would move about 1 or 2 inches.
Restricted exhaust?
http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...ts/vac/uum.htm
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This is an educate guess... Would you think your MAF sensor is not open the throttle body enough for air mix combustion fire and hold the car running steady.

You have no Check Engine light, right?
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:30 AM   #9 (permalink)
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My 92 Camry LE had a bad ECT- Engine Coolant Tempertature Sensor. In my research here your sympotoms of start easily when cold and not well after and gradually towards not at all. In my situation though not only did my ECT go bad but also found that my ignition coil had also gone bad(would be fine and show continuity until it got warm/hot eventually showed it'd cracked) AND their is also an o-ring deep inside the distributor that gets brittle and leaks/seeps oil out ever so lightly and creates havoc with all those ignition components. I had to change all three, this was after plugs, wires, fuel filter, cap n rotor, throttle body scrub-all guided through by searching/asking for help on this great site! Just throwing in my 2 cents, HTH!
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