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Old 03-24-2009, 09:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Relocating Battery

Hey guys,

so hopefully this weekend im going to be relocating my battery, just trying to get all the things i need in order so i can do it...

Ive talked to a couple people about it and i think i got what i need. Can anyone tell me if this is all, or do i need other things?

** ALSO what gauge wire should i use for the main battery cable and ground...I was told 4 gauge should be fine, but i have a subwoofer and a couple other electrical things hooked up, will this be ok?**

Parts:
-Circuit Breaker (what AMP limit should i get?)
-Distribution Block
-Battery Terminals
-copper terminals
-Battery
-Battery Box
-Wire...(4 gauge? length?)

MyFreeCamry helped me out with the list, just makin sure this is all i need

Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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sounds like your going about the right way. get about 17ft-20ft of cable at least 4gauge for pos. and dont forget to get black wire for the groung about 2ft. then cut and ground it as short as possible. other than that your ready.
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Old 03-24-2009, 10:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Use 2ga wire if you don't mind the extra cost(then you won't have to upgrade later) and solder everything you can.
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Old 03-25-2009, 12:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks for the input guys!
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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this would also be a great time to invest in a gel cell battery IMO
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Old 03-25-2009, 10:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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i guess i will go with 2 gauge wire just to be on the safe side

for the circuit breaker, any idea what amp limit i should be lookin at?? is 100 AMP a good one to go with or maybe 200? i got subs and stuff so i dont want them to trip the breaker lol

kinda new at this stuff
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Old 03-25-2009, 11:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solley View Post
i guess i will go with 2 gauge wire just to be on the safe side

for the circuit breaker, any idea what amp limit i should be lookin at?? is 100 AMP a good one to go with or maybe 200? i got subs and stuff so i dont want them to trip the breaker lol

kinda new at this stuff
When working with 110 volts, 2 gauge is what you want for a 100 amp breaker. I asked the electricians here at the university about 12 volt systems after someone at Best Buy told me I needed to run 4 gauge wire to my 2 amps, and put a 100 amp fuse on it, and the electricians told me the amperage is the same between 110 and 12 volts. Just that 12 volt looses more over the distance.

I believe you would risk damaging your wire if you go over 100amp.

By the way I run my two amps with a 10 inch sub, and 300 watts total off of a 30 amp fuse, and 8 gauge wire.
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Old 03-25-2009, 01:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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why are you relocating the battery? just curious... cosmetics? i mean.. i did mine for more engine bay space for the turbo and everything...
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Old 03-25-2009, 03:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoni View Post
why are you relocating the battery? just curious... cosmetics? i mean.. i did mine for more engine bay space for the turbo and everything...
actually the same exact reason u did, maybe turbo on the way.... and idk to learn about it i guess, seemed like a good idea to me lol
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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AC(Alternating current) travels farther than DC(Direct Current) much more efficiently. That's why 12VDC needs a honking big cable compared to an AC setup.

I second the gel battery, a traditional battery vents hydrogen gas when going through the charge/discharge cycles. Hydrogen gas is explosive, you don't want your trunk filling up with it.

If you want to go all-out, welder's cable is made of finer strands of copper and will conduct better(but is more expensive)

I don't know the current draw of the starter, but that will be what defines your cable gauge.
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Old 03-28-2009, 03:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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2ga is overrated. I have used 4ga on every relocation I have ever done, around 50, and never had a problem. I am running a 100 amp cb and it is fine. Keep it simple.
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You should probably use a fuse not a circuit breaker. Circuit breakers tend to take longer to trip(more damage) and are less reliable. I would also agree 4awg is fine. For all your ring terminals, crimp them on(a vise works for the big ones), and then flow solder in. A torch works best because the large gauge wire draws the heat away faster then a soldering iron can add it. This will lead to the best mechanical and electrical connection.
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you use a CB because the wire only goes from the battery to the starter and fuse box up front.. where ALLLLL the main fuses and everything are... so, you are pretty fused up once you get to the engine bay...
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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you use a CB because the wire only goes from the battery to the starter and fuse box up front.. where ALLLLL the main fuses and everything are... so, you are pretty fused up once you get to the engine bay...
Exactly. Solley, the parts list and directions I gave you will work perfect. Dont worry about going out and getting anything else or changing it. If you need me to do it for you, make an hour drive down here to lex and I will take care of it for you one weekend in a couple of hours.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'd use 2 gauge cable, just because if cables do get old over time, minor corrossion, etc.. it won't affect anything. The worse thing can happen is a weak starter because while the engine is cranking, it is under the most current.

Also, when relocating the battery to the trunk, the metal in the trunk area is thin and not as thick as the engine bay, I would run two or three thick ground cables, grounding several points in the trunk area. I had shit loads of problem with voltage drop, hot battery, etc.. as confirmed on my logs from my standalone ECU.
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