Car wont break.... - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

memevertical · 04-12-2009, 09:44 AM

Hi everyone,

Yesterday my Father in law decided to help me change my breaks. But after he change the 2 front ones the car doesnt seem to break well anymore, even if I push the pedal all the way it slows down little by little till it stops.

He tried to take the air out of the chamber by making me pump the pedal and realising the air from the little thingy next to the wheel.

But it still not working properly, did we do something wrong?

Thanks.

frojoe · 04-12-2009, 04:37 PM

I believe you mean "Brake" not "Break"

Simpler=Better · 04-12-2009, 06:58 PM

You will need to bleed the brakes more. Releasing air from each of the 4 bleeders at the tires; and the 4 at the master cylinder.

ghettosled · 04-12-2009, 09:09 PM

please tell me you cleaned off the oil and finger prints from the brake rotors with some brake cleaner before you installed the pads and went for a test drive. rotors are coated with oil for shipping purposes and brake pads are super absorbent.

did you lube the slide pins on the calipers?

did you touch the back brakes at all?

memevertical · 04-13-2009, 10:21 AM

Well ,this is how he did it:

First we took the left front wheel. He took the 2 brake pads off. Then he put the 2 new ones, applied some sort of paste on each pad. And that's it.

how exactly can I bleed the brakes? I kinda remember where did he bleed the front 2 tires, but where's that master cylinder?

Thanks

Hajoca · 04-13-2009, 11:10 AM

describe paste and where it was put?

memevertical · 04-13-2009, 11:51 AM

It was a dark gray paste, it was applied on the back of each pad. A thin layer was applied.

asphalt victory · 04-13-2009, 12:05 PM

yea it is a two man job just keep bleeding the air out

Mike Gerber · 04-13-2009, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memevertical

It was a dark gray paste, it was applied on the back of each pad. A thin layer was applied.

That's fine. Some people reading this thread were concerned you put it on the front (braking surface) of the pads or got some on the rotors.

As far as bleeding the brake system, you shouldn't have to do that unless you opened up one of the hydraulic lines attached to the calipers. Did anyone open up any of the hydraulic lines for any reason? The master cylinder is in front of the driver's side, inside the engine compartment located on the firewall. If you do continue to bleed the brake lines, make sure to keep refilling the master cylinder so it remains at or near the max line while you are doing the bleeding. When done, fill it back up to the max line.

Mike

memevertical · 04-14-2009, 12:23 AM

I know that he opened the hidraulic line on each wheel just to be able to push the little round thing so that the new pads fit. But he then ask me to pump the pedal and leave it pushed and I felt how when he unscrew the hidraulic line the pedal went all the way down. we did that like 4 or 5 times, but it still not braking well.

Mike Gerber · 04-14-2009, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by memevertical

I know that he opened the hidraulic line on each wheel just to be able to push the little round thing so that the new pads fit. But he then ask me to pump the pedal and leave it pushed and I felt how when he unscrew the hidraulic line the pedal went all the way down. we did that like 4 or 5 times, but it still not braking well.

He should have opened the bleeder screw on each (front) caliper and each (rear) caliper or drum brake wheel cylinder; not the hydraulic line itself. Go back and rebleed each brake using the bleeder screw and during the process have him retighten the bleeder screw before you let off the brake pedal (with the pedal still held down to the floor). If you let off the brake pedal while the bleeder screw (or hydraulic line) is still open, you will suck air right back in to the brake line. That's probably your problem. Open only one brake bleeder screw at a time as you bleed that brake.

Mike