Gen 3 Brakes

[sk8ersublime]

ok, so I have searched a little bit, and just saw a bunch of stuff on how to change the brake pads. It will be easier for me to ask and explain whats going on with my car.

Ok...

So I got my front brake pads changed at the end of Feb. and ever since then i have had a horrible squeaking when i brake. It usually happens when i am going slow, or just starting the car and backing out of my parking space. So i took the car back to the place to get it checked out, the guy took me back to the lift and showed me everything. He said that the new pads they put on were wider than the old ones and since there is a small ring of rust around the outside of the rotor, that is causing the squeaking in the front. He also said that it should start to go away over time (this true??)

So i didnt think much about the front, not a big deal, well then he shows me the back, which they didnt do, and honestly i couldnt tell you the last time they were done (horrible, i know!) But when he showed me them, the pads were really low, so i know they have to be replaced, but the rotors also were starting go. He spun the rotor with his hand and it made an awful sound....

So, I also learned that I have 4 disc brakes. (I thought this car had drum brakes in the rear) but anyway. Any suggestions on what I should put back there? They quoted me about $250 just for the rear. I have heard that brakes are not hard to install, and would like to try doing this myself, but I really dont know anything about brakes.

Chad

P.S. - Sorry ive been away from TN for so long! haha! and I am going to hit 300,000 tomorrow on my way to the Caps game

oh and Adam....

While the car was on the lift, i checked out the Sway bar...... still good, not loose! hahaha!

[ASG14]

^ BWA HAHAHAH! I was goign to say we had the rear wheel off when I did it so you should have known it was disc!

BTW, I'll be there in 3-4 weeks if you want me to do pads, and/or rotors with you, Just get checp blanks and a decent pad. Rear is not too too important.

[Mike Gerber]

"So i took the car back to the place to get it checked out, the guy took me back to the lift and showed me everything. He said that the new pads they put on were wider than the old ones and since there is a small ring of rust around the outside of the rotor, that is causing the squeaking in the front."

I would stay away from any shop that would do a front brake job and not at least turn (cut) the old rotors.

Mike

[abew330]

Originally Posted by sk8ersublime

So, I also learned that I have 4 disc brakes. (I thought this car had drum brakes in the rear) but anyway. Any suggestions on what I should put back there? They quoted me about $250 just for the rear. I have heard that brakes are not hard to install, and would like to try doing this myself, but I really dont know anything about brakes.

$250!! wow.. that sounds like a lot
i just did my sis 93 cam... front disc and rear drums...

i always done my brakes whenever they needed to be done.. i never took it in..

[donbryce]

Does your parking/emergency brake work? If you will be removing the rear disks for replacement or turning, and the brake has not been used regularly, be prepared for a lot of work, and $ if the parking brake shoes and cables need replacement. If the E brake works, and there is minimal 'ridge' at the rotor edge, I'd just do the pads.

[ASG14]

^ The parking brake cables never need to be replaced inless they snap. And the parking brake shoes (on disc brakes) normally NEVER need replacing.

[ghettosled]

dont go back to that shop.

A. cant believe they didnt resurface the old front rotors.
B. checked the condition of the rear rotors by spinning them to see what noise they made???

rear disc brakes are a little triacker than front, but im sure everyone here can walk you through the steps.

[donbryce]

Originally Posted by ASG14

^ The parking brake cables never need to be replaced inless they snap. And the parking brake shoes (on disc brakes) normally NEVER need replacing.

Well, I stubbornly went back in to the left rear disk anyway, for the third time, to see if I could get some movement of the cable. After buying a $10.00 set of 'star' sockets to get the heat shield off (what's with those stupid nuts anyway?), I finally could see the cable 'equalizer' bar. I pulled back the rubber boot and was able to grab the cable and push it in a bit, toward the rear, and I could feel the cable inside the covering 'tube' moving. However, after disconnecting the end at the shoe lever, and attaching vice grips, no amount of pulling could make it budge at all. It seems to be frozen at the end somehow. I can't understand why, as the cable looks like stainless braid with a plastic covering bonded on. Any ideas?

[Mike Gerber]

Try spraying some penetrating oil liberally down both ends of the cable. Wait about an hour and then try working the cable back and forth. You just might get lucky.

Mike