3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I replaced my tires 2 weeks ago and last week I made my wheels alignment, also I asked the machinist to check the brake. I have 2 questions, thanks in advance for answering.
1. My car doesn't go straitly in a longer distance if I don't touch the wheel, does it mean the alignment was not successful?
2. The machinist said the brake pad and something called 'rotor' or 'rotator' in front or rear(I forget what position he said) need to be replaced. He asked for $240 for 4 brake pads and 2 'rotor' or 'rotator'. Is this price reasonable or I can do it by myself?
1. Do you mean the car is 'pulling' left or right, as you drive with the front wheels straight ahead and take your hands off the steering wheel? This is a fairly serious front suspension condition and should be checked ASAP by the party that did your alignment. If you mean that the steering wheel is pointing as if you were turning, but the car goes in a straight line, that would be from the alignment job, called 'centering the steering wheel'. It should have been corrected during the alignment, but some shops charge extra to do this when a road test is needed to make the final adjustment. Either way, go back and have it looked at.
2. From your post, you don't sound 'qualified' to do this job yourself. Brake pads are easy DIY, but rotors/brake disks are often a bear to remove when worn. That sounds like a reasonable price to have the work done properly.
Most roads aren't perfectly flat and level. So it would be very difficult to tell that way.
I have done many toe-in's and those are easy, but I rotate the linkage only 2mm in fine tuning. The camber is more difficult and requires a special level gauge. However, this won't properly do a 4-wheel align for you. Best to find a good shop with a calibrated Hunter alignment machine.
If $240 is for labor plus 4 rotors and 2 sets (front/rear) of pads, then it may be OK.
IMO, Raybestos Red Label service grade are about $20 each and work fine. But pads I think you should insist on Akebono ProAct ceramic ($50 each set). No less.
The ProActs are FF friction rated. The Toyota's Akebono-made pads are only EE. Therefore I said $240 may be OK, if you get those parts I mentioned. BTW, I don't think you need to go Brembo rotors or Raybestos Advanced Technology unless you want to spend the $.
Frankly, if you couldn't get the toe-in's right I'll leave the brake job to the pros.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ysun
Hi m8s,
I replaced my tires 2 weeks ago and last week I made my wheels alignment, also I asked the machinist to check the brake. I have 2 questions, thanks in advance for answering.
1. My car doesn't go straitly in a longer distance if I don't touch the wheel, does it mean the alignment was not successful?
2. The machinist said the brake pad and something called 'rotor' or 'rotator' in front or rear(I forget what position he said) need to be replaced. He asked for $240 for 4 brake pads and 2 'rotor' or 'rotator'. Is this price reasonable or I can do it by myself?
The fact that the car doesn't go straight can also be a tire problem. The belts inside radial tires can shift to one side or the other, causing the car to pull one way or the other. It is simply called a "radial pull". I have seen this happen, even with brand new tires. If it's not an alignment issue, have the technician switch the 2 front tires with each other as a test and then take the car for a ride. If the car now pulls in the opposite direction, you have identified a radial pull in the front tire now on the side the car is pulling towards. Most techs will try this test before redchecking the alignment, since it is a pretty quick and easy test.
I replaced my tires 2 weeks ago and last week I made my wheels alignment, also I asked the machinist to check the brake. I have 2 questions, thanks in advance for answering.
1. My car doesn't go straitly in a longer distance if I don't touch the wheel, does it mean the alignment was not successful?
2. The machinist said the brake pad and something called 'rotor' or 'rotator' in front or rear(I forget what position he said) need to be replaced. He asked for $240 for 4 brake pads and 2 'rotor' or 'rotator'. Is this price reasonable or I can do it by myself?
Thanks!
Well, honestly, if you say that it goes in a certain direction over the distance, not all road are flat and level. Most have a slant to allown for water draining. So unless your car is pulling in one specific direction consistently, then I wouldn't worry about it. If you really doubt the integrity of the guy's alignment, then simply go to another shop and have them check it. They might charge a nominal fee for it.
As for the rotors and pads, 240$ is a good price for 2 rotors, 4 pads AND labor. But from experience, don't put those cheap aftermarket rotors on your car. I was dumb enough to do that back in the day and I ended up with brakes that squeeled. My advice: rotors from Toyota(yes I know that will be expensive , but take it from me, it's worth it) and as for the pads, it doesn't really matter, pads are pads. Hypothetically, you can do it yourself. It isn't too hard, but if you haven't done it before, find yourself a nice DIY to do it. It will me a nice learning experience. If you want to go on the safe side and you need the car as a daily driver, bring it into the shop
__________________
1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I went to the garage yesterday and planed to replace 4 pads and 2 front rotors. Before the machinist drove my car into the garage, I asked the garage owner to confirm what parts should be replaced. What he said is quite different than his man did, he said I don't need to replace the pads or rotor, because there are still some left on the pads which could last around 3k miles or more, also he said the rotors could be re-(some english word I don't know, I guess he meant some thing like re-new?), so that I don't need to replace the rotors after 3k miles, too. So... I didn't replace anything and drove my car home. I think I met with an honest man.
I still have one thing confused. The machinist asked me to replace the rotors and he showed me some replaced used rotors which have circle trails on them, but their boss said I don't need to replace the rotors because the rotors could be something like 'renew'. Does anyone know the details about the rotor thing?
I went to the garage yesterday and planed to replace 4 pads and 2 front rotors. Before the machinist drove my car into the garage, I asked the garage owner to confirm what parts should be replaced. What he said is quite different than his man did, he said I don't need to replace the pads or rotor, because there are still some left on the pads which could last around 3k miles or more, also he said the rotors could be re-(some english word I don't know, I guess he meant some thing like re-new?), so that I don't need to replace the rotors after 3k miles, too. So... I didn't replace anything and drove my car home. I think I met with an honest man.
I still have one thing confused. The machinist asked me to replace the rotors and he showed me some replaced used rotors which have circle trails on them, but their boss said I don't need to replace the rotors because the rotors could be something like 'renew'. Does anyone know the details about the rotor thing?
Thanks!
I think he might have said resurfacing the rotor... Essentially, what that is is they sand the surface of the rotor so to speak to make the surface flat and even again. If you want to, you can go ahead and do that, but i would advice against it. Fact of the matter is most machinist are less accurate that the machine that makes the rotor, therefore, not making the rotor as flat as a new one. As a general rule, I replace my rotors every second set of brake pads(yes I know it's probably overkill, but I am almost a fanatic when it comes to maintaining my car). That's my 2 cents worth...
__________________
1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
"Essentially, what that is is they sand the surface of the rotor so to speak to make the surface flat and even again"
It's actually not a sanding process, but rather a cutting process. The rotors are put on a brake lathe. The lathe spins the rotors as a cutting tool actually comes in contact with the rotor surface and moves from the inside to the outside of each side of the rotor. It removes metal from the surface of the rotor and gives the rotor a new surface. This new surface is important for the new pads to seat properly to the rotors. The rotors may only be cut to a predetermined mininum thickness. After that thickness is reached, the rotors must be discarded and new ones put on. There needs to be enough thickness (meat) left on the rotors to be able to dissipate the heat created by the friction involved in the braking process. Too much heat and the rotors will warp.
Generally the more metal you remove from a rotor more more likely it's going to warp in the future. But if you don't mind doing that and the rotor is above "minimum thickness" then it would be your call. At least it's cheaper than a Raybestos Raymold rotor at about $20, which works just fine.
In fact, GM and Ford have recommended against turning the rotors in routine pad replacement if certain surface conditions are met (for example scoring < 0.xxx inch, disc runout < 0.xxx etc etc).
It's very important to torque the wheel lug nuts evenly. (Read: use a torque wrench). Your local Harbor Freight's $15 on sale 1/2"-drive works fine for this. IMO, every trunk should have one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ysun
I still have one thing confused. The machinist asked me to replace the rotors and he showed me some replaced used rotors which have circle trails on them, but their boss said I don't need to replace the rotors because the rotors could be something like 'renew'. Does anyone know the details about the rotor thing?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
