3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi,
I have 99Camry 2.2L with 137K on it. For several months it won't start normally after rain or when it is wet outside.
The engine idles at ~300-800 rpm, very rough, and sometimes it stalls, so I have to restart it again. After several minutes of rough idling the car suddenly rises the rpm-s to ~1800-2000 and since then the car runs fine.
Ok. Here is my real problem.
My wife, she drives our Camry, complains that now she often can't start the car at all when it's dry. She could not get the idle rpm stabilized even after 10 minutes. Since I use some tricks (like a slight stimulation of the car to stay at reasonable rpm-s by pushing on the gas pedal all the time when I am starting the car and immediately after), I could not reproduce 10 minute long troubles, but several times I couldn't start the car for at least 2 minutes.
Spark plug wires. My 98 is starting to do this a little, not as bad as yours but if you wanna check the spark plug wires open up the hood at night and start the engine, ull be surprised at what you see.
You might as well change the plugs and wires at the same time.
Sounds like a combination of issues. As hoiskii mentioned, the wet weather thing sounds like the spark plug wires. I'd recommend replacing with OEM (www.toyotaoemparts.com or www.1sttoyotaparts.com are more reasonable than most other dealers), or at least Denso brand. In many cases, the cheap aftermarket wires are almost as sucky as old wires.
Second issue sounds like the coolant temperature sensor -- when it fails in the "reading really cold" state, it is extremely difficult to start or idle the car when it's warm.
Actually, I suspected the IAC valve. The wire set has been changed 2 years ago (with some cheap crap). So I'll give it another try. On RockAuto.com I found a wireset by Bosch for $27 (3 times less than OEM). Do you think it will work?
Actually, I suspected the IAC valve. The wire set has been changed 2 years ago (with some cheap crap). So I'll give it another try. On RockAuto.com I found a wireset by Bosch for $27 (3 times less than OEM). Do you think it will work?
No distributor in a '99, so no cap.
If you press on the gas pedal (opening the throttle), and it still hard starts, it's not the IAC. I'd still suspect the coolant temperature sensor until proven innocent. Easy enough to check the resistance once warmed up.
IMHO, "Botch" is like Sony -- living on past glory. I'd recommend OEM, Denso, or NGK. Geez, the OEM plug wire set from toyotaoemparts is only $40 plus shipping, and you know those wires will be good for tens of thousands of miles.
Ok. There is more to the story now.
When my car starts and I try to drive it, the engine stalls when I push on the gas pedal. !!!
The sequence is like this:
wet weather, cold engine -> rough start, then idles at ~1500 rpms -> shift to "drive" -> ~800-1000 rpm stable -> release brake, starts moving 1000 rpm stable (!) -> apply a tiny bit of gas -> ENGINE RUNS ROUGH and UNSTABLE with some explosions and smoke coming out of the pipe -> continue to apply gas or pushing the gas pedal further causes the engine to STALL. After several re-starts and driving without applying gas (runs stable !!), the car eventually runs normal.
Ok. There is more to the story now.
When my car starts and I try to drive it, the engine stalls when I push on the gas pedal. !!!
The sequence is like this:
wet weather, cold engine -> rough start, then idles at ~1500 rpms -> shift to "drive" -> ~800-1000 rpm stable -> release brake, starts moving 1000 rpm stable (!) -> apply a tiny bit of gas -> ENGINE RUNS ROUGH and UNSTABLE with some explosions and smoke coming out of the pipe -> continue to apply gas or pushing the gas pedal further causes the engine to STALL. After several re-starts and driving without applying gas (runs stable !!), the car eventually runs normal.
What the ... is going on with my car!!!! Help!
OK, quick test -- pop open the hood, and follow the upper radiator hose back from the radiator to the other end. At the end of that, you'll find the coolant sensor ( see http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen4/SFI.pdf page 48 for the diagram ). Pop the connector off of the sensor (you'll have to push in a tab on the side of the connector as you pull up -- comes off easy once you've got the tab pushed in enough). See if that improves the situation -- the computer assumes the car is warmed up if it can't see the sensor. Your "check engine" light will also come on, but will go away again when you reconnect the sensor.
I doubt the coolant temp sensor woudl be causing that big of a probelm. This sounds more like a clogged egr or soemthing along those lines.
I would seafoam it and see it that helps and clean the throttle body.
A weird vacuum leak could also cause this, maybe intake gaskets. It sounds like the moisture is shorting something out in the ignition, I would def. change the plug wires first and do a tune up along with the seafoam.
I doubt the coolant temp sensor woudl be causing that big of a probelm. This sounds more like a clogged egr or soemthing along those lines.
I would seafoam it and see it that helps and clean the throttle body.
A weird vacuum leak could also cause this, maybe intake gaskets. It sounds like the moisture is shorting something out in the ignition, I would def. change the plug wires first and do a tune up along with the seafoam.
Thanks. Actually, my check engine light indicates that my vacuum system does not work right. The problem is that I have no idea how to troubleshoot the entire vacuum system. Should I change ALL vacuum pipes or something?
I'll check the coolant sensor resistance tonight, and get a new set of wires and spray the seafoam into the manifold tomorrow. Since the heavy rain continues here for at least a few more days, I should be able to post updates sometime on the weekend.
Thanks. Actually, my check engine light indicates that my vacuum system does not work right. The problem is that I have no idea how to troubleshoot the entire vacuum system. Should I change ALL vacuum pipes or something?
All right.
1) I have measured the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor. It is ~680 Ohms for a warm engine. T~45-55 Celsius seems to be reasonable. I'll check it again when the car cools down completely.
2) The trouble code is 0446 that stands for "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction" Frankly, I have no idea what it means and where should I start fixing this.
All right.
1) I have measured the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor. It is ~680 Ohms for a warm engine. T~45-55 Celsius seems to be reasonable. I'll check it again when the car cools down completely.
2) The trouble code is 0446 that stands for "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction" Frankly, I have no idea what it means and where should I start fixing this.
That's actually pretty high for a fully warmed-up engine -- 250 ohms is nominal. It's probably low enough, 'tho, that the computer will consider the car "warmed up" and go closed loop, at which point it'll use the outputs of the O2 sensors to trim the injector timing (translation: this doesn't worry me too badly).
I look forward to seeing the cold-engine results, and, even more the results of leaving the connector off while you start / run the engine cold.
Evap system malfunctions usually aren't all that critical -- often just replacing the gas cap is all that is necessary. I sure don't remember ever seeing a P0446 cause the kind of drivability problems you're seeing.
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