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Is it the fuel pump or timing belt? given 2 diagnosis
Ok, I spent most of the night and this afternoon browsing the forum looking for this info, but the only thing I could find was the typical, "water pump and timing belt combination".
My dilemma...2 days ago car was driving just fine at 35 mph and then just stopped. It was hard to push of the gas pedal. Power slowly went and steering was hard. I turned off the car and when I tried to turn on it cranked but wouldnt turn over. The tow truck guy said, "ah, its the fuel pump and gave CPR, covered up open vacuums (there was 2 vacuums open) but to no avail. Both vaccums been open for awhile now and never caused much trouble. 1 is a skinny one attached to what I think may be fuel filter, the other is a wider one at the top right hand side by the windshield.
Anyway, so had it towed to my mechanic. He instantly said timing belt. Couldnt afford to do anything. Towed it home. Tried cranking it today, the alternator and power steering belts turn ever so slowly, but they turn. Step on gas? Nothing except continuos cranking noise, no change in the sound of the crank. Already had distributer cap, plugs and wires changed and less than 6 months old. Also had gasket seals changed.
Which one could it be? Normally I'd call a mechanic and be done with it but Im digustingly broke so cant do nothing but sit here in agony and distress over the fact I dont know whats really wrong. I have to call someone over to the house now. What do you think?
I wanted to add, Im thinking that lately (past couple months or so) accelerating between 0 and 40, engine sounded rougher than usual. It used to be a smooth ride but lately it was sounding old and not as quiet. Could that be the sign of whatever happened?
Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 05-01-2009 at 03:52 PM.
You didn't mention how many miles are on the current Tbelt, but I assume it is probably well over 100K? It could be a few things, but the T-belt sounds reasonable too. It could be an iginition failure, blown fuse, maybe the fuel pump, etc. You can do a few tests too see which.
For the fuel pump, if you are smelling gas while cranking the engine over, it's not likely the fuel pump. Check for fuel pressure by turning the key on for a min, then turn it off and loosen the hose coupling on the fuel filter to see if fuel sprays out. (have a cloth nearby to prevent spills).
For the t-belt, you can remove the spark plug wires and the front cam cover (V6?) and crank the engine and observe if the camshaft turns. If it doesn't, the t-belt is broken.
If all checks out, then check for spark with a spare spark plug connected to one of the ignition wires pulled from its spark plug. Ground the plug against the car chassis or engine and observe in a dark garage as someone cranks the engine briefly.
thanks dave...today I just cranked it up and watched as the power steering and alternator belts revolved...Im confused. It cant be inigtion, had a shorted wire the 1st week I bought it which died and car wouldnt turn on at all. No cranking, no 'on' position, I thought everything was literally dead. luckily it was revived. scary.
At this point I dont know. Like I said cant really do much. Im just so depressed right now. I dont know how Im going to be able to get around and live life. I've never been in this situation and Im just so scared about everything. I wish I had the money, but I dont. Every time something went wrong, I was able to fix it. This has caught me by surprise especially since I;ve fixed so many things in the 1.5 year I had it. Im devastated
By the way, have no idea how many miles timing belt has. Man told me 1.5 years ago when I bought it that the timing and water was new. that was at 134K now its 164K. How would he know? or me?
I just need words of advice, on how to get through this. I have no way to get around and its really saddening.
Dave's got pretty good suggestions. You need to check fuel, spark, and air.
The tow truck driver pull some hoses, I guess to provide some air?? I'll say plug the hoses back where they belong. Check that throttle cable isn't binding.
And you need to use a plug like Dave said to *make sure* you actually have sparks.
If the fuel isn't burned then you would smell it. But don't over crank it.
As far as timing belt goes, the distributor rotor should turn if it's OK. The distributor is driven off the cam. If you crank and that rotor doesn't move, bingo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 96ToyoCam164K
thanks dave...today I just cranked it up and watched as the power steering and alternator belts revolved...Im confused. It cant be inigtion, had a shorted wire the 1st week I bought it which died and car wouldnt turn on at all. No cranking, no 'on' position, I thought everything was literally dead. luckily it was revived. scary.
At this point I dont know. Like I said cant really do much. Im just so depressed right now. I dont know how Im going to be able to get around and live life. I've never been in this situation and Im just so scared about everything. I wish I had the money, but I dont. Every time something went wrong, I was able to fix it. This has caught me by surprise especially since I;ve fixed so many things in the 1.5 year I had it. Im devastated
By the way, have no idea how many miles timing belt has. Man told me 1.5 years ago when I bought it that the timing and water was new. that was at 134K now its 164K. How would he know? or me?
I just need words of advice, on how to get through this. I have no way to get around and its really saddening.
I know there's a link somwhere but, how do I remove the distributer cap? I see one screw for it. If you dont feel like explaining, please just post a link
typically bad fuel pumps overheat and shut off while you are driving. after cooling for about 20 minutes the car will run again until it overheats again.
I know there's a link somwhere but, how do I remove the distributer cap? I see one screw for it. If you dont feel like explaining, please just post a link
Is this the 5S-FE (4-banger) or the 1MZ-FE (6-banger)? Is the rig a Gen4 (as the tag on the thread sez), or a 1996 (which is Gen3)? In general, 'tho, there are usually two screws or two bolts.
Autozone has free repair guides online. Select the "intermediate" one. Sorry I didn't register with Autozone, so no access for me (yet).
There are two types of caps. One with 3 bolts, the other with 2 bolts. They are about evenly spaced around the cap. Although those on the bottom can be hard to get to.
I know there's a link somwhere but, how do I remove the distributer cap? I see one screw for it. If you dont feel like explaining, please just post a link
2.2 L, how many miles on it, or since the timing belt was last done?
Two bolts to remove the distributor cap, if you crank and the distributor rotor does not turn, the timing belt is broken.
If it turns, and you are over 60,000 mi or 100,000 Km on the belt, it could have jumped a tooth or two. I had one jump just driving at a fixed speed on the highway ... the car just stopped, like you describe.
My guess is the belt, think the fuel pump would be more apt to die slowly, you'd sense some change in the way the car was working - less power - bucking and jerking - etc.
If you trun the key on - can you hear the fuel pump running?
__________________
85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
On the left side of the engine you'll see a black cover, remove a couple bolts holding it and you should be able to see the timing belt and see if its still intact.
If the cars cranking over real easy the timing belts probally dead.
well after taking off the cap today ( yay! the 1st piece of engine work I've done on this car) it doesnt move so looks like the belt is shot. I also ended up removing the air intake hose too (yay!)
My question is, is it really possible to just fix the timing belt and water pump myself without having any previous timing belt experience? It seems as if all the parts just come together while working, but timing? want to make sure I get it right! All I'd do is have a partner and a manual from that ninja site to help me out. I dont have time to wait for some man to help me do it, Im needy right now!
Im not trying to be a mechanic, and its not about being 'manly', its just that I have no option, I need to get around. Hell, its my car...paid off...Might as well. I cant sit around and wait like this any longer Im about to EXPLODE!
also wanted to know...where can I get a belt tensioner at to measure how tight things are around there?
Last edited by 96ToyoCam164K; 05-04-2009 at 07:44 PM.
well after taking off the cap today ( yay! the 1st piece of engine work I've done on this car) it doesnt move so looks like the belt is shot. I also ended up removing the air intake hose too (yay!)
My question is, is it really possible to just fix the timing belt and water pump myself without having any previous timing belt experience? It seems as if all the parts just come together while working, but timing? want to make sure I get it right! All I'd do is have a partner and a manual from that ninja site to help me out. I dont have time to wait for some man to help me do it, Im needy right now!
Im not trying to be a mechanic, and its not about being 'manly', its just that I have no option, I need to get around. Hell, its my car...paid off...Might as well. I cant sit around and wait like this any longer Im about to EXPLODE!
also wanted to know...where can I get a belt tensioner at to measure how tight things are around there?
Hmmmmm. While I hate to discourage someone who's willing to give it a go, it's quite a jump from removing a distributor cover to changing a timing belt. Not so much technical difficulty, but there's a goodly number of tools required. Most of us acquired the tools along the way, doing the easy stuff first (maxim: every auto repair requires at least one new tool). At a minimum, a floor jack and a couple of jackstands, a set of metric sockets (1/2" drive) and ratchet, probably a breaker bar. A good trouble light (a flashlight in a pinch, but yuck!) and a timing light. A torque wrench isn't strictly necessary, but I wouldn't recommend reassembling without one...certainly not the first time. If you can borrow most of the tools (or actually already have them), then what the heck -- give it a go.
However, before you start, have a look at the two part DIY here. First part is at DIY: GEN3 Timing Belt + Waterpump + Oil Seal Change - Part 1 . This covers a lot more than just a timing belt replacement (timing belt + water pump + oil seals), but it'll give you the flavor of what you might be looking at.
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