oh no i found rust :( - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Manny1337 · 05-17-2009, 03:39 PM

okay well today i decided to wax my baby and get her nice and clean after a dirty winter. so im going along doing my thing and i notice on the rear passenger wheel well there is some paint bubbling about the size of a penny and i look on the insde of the well to see some rust is forming. what is the right action to take to stop this rusting without having to sand and bondo my car its not that bad yet. i just want to stop it from spreading

***projektvertx*** · 05-17-2009, 04:23 PM

Well, if it's in the wheel well, I think that your safest bet would be to go ahead and sand that baby down, and repaint from scratch. Use bondo as needed. The wheel well is a place that accumulates a lot of salt and snow in the winter, and if you leave that untouched it will start spreading like cancer, literally! My advice, go ahead and tackle it before it gets serious. Buy some good rustproof primer, or rust converter, get some paint from wherever you like(I bought mine from the dealer for exact color match:10$ per 1/2 ounce), and get a good quality clear coat. All this can be bought from autozone/murrays/walmart. Buy paint from the dealer if it's a small area youll be repainting cause a brush can be a pain if it's a large area...

Since some rust started in one wheel well, I would also inspect the 3 other wells closely. If it started in on, I wouldn't be surprised to see it in the others. If it's only in one wheel well, then you are lucky!!

Manny1337 · 05-17-2009, 04:28 PM

thanks for the advice. one of these days this summer i guess i will have to do this. the paint the dealer sell is it spray can or brush on? how well does it match original? and what about inside of the wheel well where it is just metal. should i just sand it down and spray with rust prof primer? thanks

***projektvertx*** · 05-17-2009, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Manny1337

thanks for the advice. one of these days this summer i guess i will have to do this. the paint the dealer sell is it spray can or brush on? how well does it match original? and what about inside of the wheel well where it is just metal. should i just sand it down and spray with rust prof primer? thanks

The dealer sells in in a brush on bottle. It matched my paint perfectly, and I have a dark color as well(dark emerald pearl, 6M1). as for the inside, I don't know the extent of the damage, but leaving primer on on it's own is not a good idea, because primer is porous, and will allow humidity to get in, and you'll end up with rust again. Where exactly in the wheel well is this? would it be possible to take a pic of it?

Manny1337 · 05-17-2009, 04:57 PM

okay i got a picture of the rust but im asking about the other side of the metal.

i thought id throw a pic of my freshly waxed cam too =P

***projektvertx*** · 05-17-2009, 07:40 PM

The thing about rust bubbles is that when you sand down the paint, you will find the rust right under the paint is much worst. I don't think that you should worry about what's beind it. If you really feel the need to know, I would grab a mirror and check but I doubt you'll find anything. This still looks relatively young in terms of rust. I don't think you should even worry about buying bondo. Here is your shopping list for whenever you decide to take care of it:

-3M automotive tape:availible at Murray's, Autozone or any other reputable automotive store. It's quite pricey, 7$ a roll, but works great. Don't cheap out on the tape, that is a vital part of this job. If you choose to get some cheap masking tape, it might damage the clear coat on the area you tape, or worst, be porous enough to let paint or primer in.

-Dupli-color self etching primer: this type has rust proofing, which is useful for the location, you will find it at Wal-Mart for 4-5$ for a 12 ounce aerosol can if I remember correctly.Your auto part store should have it as well.

-Paint: for that small area, you'll probably need 1/100th of the 1/2 ounce bottle, so I would go ahead and get it from the dealership. I'll assume you know where to find your paint code. If not, I think the dealer can pull it up based on VIN number. It should be about 10$ for the 1/2 ouce bottle

-Dupli-color clear coat: the icing on the cake, also availible at wal-mart or your local automotive store. Unfortunately, I don't remember the price.

-3M rust and paint stripper: This fits on your drill, which I will assume you have. It should hack thru that rust very easily. This is also availble at your auto parts store or wal-mart for 7-8$

-Turtle wax rubbing compound and polishing compound: This is used after you let the clear coat dry

- A WHOLE LOT OF NEWSPAPER!!!!

I'm out of time, but I'll give you a write up on the procedure tommorow!! I'll try to get into as much detail as I can!

sk8ersublime · 05-17-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projektvertx

The dealer sells in in a brush on bottle. It matched my paint perfectly, and I have a dark color as well(dark emerald pearl, 6M1). as for the inside, I don't know the extent of the damage, but leaving primer on on it's own is not a good idea, because primer is porous, and will allow humidity to get in, and you'll end up with rust again. Where exactly in the wheel well is this? would it be possible to take a pic of it?

we have the same car and color...ive got about 100,000 miles up on you tho :P 302,000+ do you have pics posted in any threads?

***projektvertx*** · 05-18-2009, 07:29 PM

Hey there Manny,
Here is the write up I promised you... So, make sure you get all of the materials I said in my previous past as well as a 12V drill, preferably one that you can plug into the wall, a jack, a lug nut wrench and a light. I also forgot to tell you to get some NUFINISH car polish. So let's get to it! So, first park the car in your garage so that you can close the door, because you may have to! So first start off by raising the car so that you can have enough space for you and the drill can go there, and remove the tire if needed(preferable, from the pic you showed).

First, clean off the area surrounding the rust with a damp cloth. Don't worry about making the area super clean, cause it'll get dirty once you start using the drill sander.

Now, attach the rust and paint remover to the drill and hook it up. This is the part that you need to really focus on, because it it very important, you need to practice the control of the drill on the metal. Practice starting at a slow rpm and creeping up before you touch the metal. Put the stripper at a 45 degree angle, so that the outer edge is hitting the metal, and start off at a very slow RPM and slowly creep up, but don't go full speed. Sand down to bare metal. Try to make the area rectangular, as it will make it very easy when taping off for the primer job. Take your time, do it right!

Now that your done, start taping of around the area, putting the tape right on the outside edge of the white line(primer line) formed around the outer edges of the rectangle. Now that your done placing the tape aroung the outer edge, start putting newspaper on the area surrounding the sanded down area, and don't shy when using the newspaper, you would be surprised how far that overspray will go... make sure you tape all the edges between papers as to not allow any paint to go thru, I took some pics of my car when I did this a couple of weeks ago, here is an idea to show how it should look like once you put the newspaper:

Don't shy away from using that tape and newspaper!!!! But put a lot of tape around the sanded down area before touching the newspaper.

Now shake up the can of primer until the ball frees up, then shake for 30 seconds after. Now, spray the primer 8-10 inches from the metal, and let it dry for 10 minutes, then spray on another 2-3 coats, each 10 minutes apart.

Now let it dry for 30-45 minutes, and then remove the paper and tape. And voila primer surface ready for the paint!!

Now, assuming you got the paint from the dealer, shake the bottle for a good 2-3 minutes(trust me, will provide a perfect color match...) Now start brushing on the paint, go outside the rectangle you sanded down, you don't want to leave a small crack for humidity to seap in and cause more rust. Apply a couple of coats, leaving about 5-10 minutes between each coat to dry.

Now, you must let the paint dry for a day(24 hours), and I can tell you from experience, that time can't be cut down. So put back on the tire, even if you have no plans to use the car, cause you wouldn't want the jack failing... The car should be use-able after about 2 hours max, but to let the paint properly dry, let it dry for 24 hours.

Now that the paint has dried, grab the clear coat and shake it up very nicely, for about a minute or two after the ball frees up. Clean off the whole panel with a towel, wether or not you drove the car. Don't worry about taping off the area, as it is clear coat, and it will blend in much better if no tape is used. Now spray on the painted area, try to limit the amount of overspray yourself, but don't pay special significance to it. You can simply jack the car up or remove the tire again, it's up to you. Apply as many coats as you like, I put 2.

Now, let the clear coat dry for 24 hours (it says 48 on the can, but 24 will cut it). You should be able to drive the car after about an hour

Now you have 2 options: wash your car or clean the affected panel, in which will make your car look a little funny. Apply the rubing compound 2-3 times on the whole wheel well area with a cloth, but don't scrub to strongly as the rubbing compound is abrassive. Now follow up with some polish, apply liberaly on the freshly painted area as well as the surrounding area. Follow up with some NUFINISH, which you will also apply liberaly. And voila!!! You have eliminated the problem!!!

If you need any more help, feel free to PM me! I will try to respond as soon as I can! Good luck!

***projektvertx*** · 05-18-2009, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sk8ersublime

we have the same car and color...ive got about 100,000 miles up on you tho :P 302,000+ do you have pics posted in any threads?

Unfortunately, the only pics I have posted up are those of when I was doing the wheel well job I mentioned in the post above. I will however take some picture of my car and post them. I go out right now and take a couple of pics before it gets dark...