IS A/C Compressor Working?

[Deadly Sushi]

Where in the heck is the AC clutch/compressor on a I-4 1992 Camry? I looked and I cant find it. The AC isnt working at all. I dont know where to even hook up a meter to see what if anything is in the lines.
I dont know what in the heck is wrong with the system but I think looking at the compressor and seeing if the system is pressurized is a good 1st step.

Also How do I know the compressor and/or clutch is even working?

[500KCamry]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

Where in the heck is the AC clutch/compressor on a I-4 1992 Camry? I looked and I cant find it. The AC isnt working at all. I dont know where to even hook up a meter to see what if anything is in the lines.
I dont know what in the heck is wrong with the system but I think looking at the compressor and seeing if the system is pressurized is a good 1st step.

Also How do I know the compressor and/or clutch is even working?

It's directly under the alternator and run off the same belt.

You should be able to hear the clutch cycling. The electrical for it drops down from the alternator.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

I think looking at the compressor and seeing if the system is pressurized is a good 1st step.

You won't know that without a set of gauges, even if the compressor is spinning.

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

Also How do I know the compressor and/or clutch is even working?

The noise of the compressor working is kind of hard to miss (it's kind of a rattle-y sound).

You can get a go/no go check by looking at the sight glass on the seperator / dryer (immediately to the right of the radiator). When the ECU cycles the compressor on, the condensor fan (the "radiator" fan on the passenger side) will kick on, and engine rpms will bump up a bit. At this point, the sight glass should be clear. When the compressor kicks off, the fan kicks off, the engine rpms drop, and the sight glass should momentarily (half a second or so) look "bubbly".

This won't tell you much about how well the compressor is working, but it'll tell you that something is cycling pressure in the system.

[Deadly Sushi]

Originally Posted by hill8570

The noise of the compressor working is kind of hard to miss (it's kind of a rattle-y sound).

You can get a go/no go check by looking at the sight glass on the seperator / dryer (immediately to the right of the radiator). When the ECU cycles the compressor on, the condensor fan (the "radiator" fan on the passenger side) will kick on, and engine rpms will bump up a bit. At this point, the sight glass should be clear. When the compressor kicks off, the fan kicks off, the engine rpms drop, and the sight glass should momentarily (half a second or so) look "bubbly".

This won't tell you much about how well the compressor is working, but it'll tell you that something is cycling pressure in the system.

Thanks folks! OK, so shouldnt the compressor be cycling on/off much faster if there is no pressure in the system? Regarding that glass thing I havent seen it before but I'll take another look.

OHHHHH!!!!!!!! hey!!!!!!!! I almost forgot!!!!!! I bought a conversion kit from the old refrigerant to the new stuff!!! It has the connection thing, oil and new R-134 stuff. Is that easy to do? Im pretty sure it IS, but..... just wanna know.
Thanks again everyone!

[hill8570]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

Thanks folks! OK, so shouldnt the compressor be cycling on/off much faster if there is no pressure in the system? Regarding that glass thing I havent seen it before but I'll take another look.

Typically the compressor won't cycle at all if the pressure is too low -- it's usually necessary to override the pressure switch when charging a completely purged system.

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

OHHHHH!!!!!!!! hey!!!!!!!! I almost forgot!!!!!! I bought a conversion kit from the old refrigerant to the new stuff!!! It has the connection thing, oil and new R-134 stuff. Is that easy to do? Im pretty sure it IS, but..... just wanna know.

Um, it's easy to completely fsck up your rig with one of those conversion kits -- it's real easy to end up with black goo contaminating your entire system. Unlike years past, R-12 isn't super expensive these days -- I don't see the point of doing such a conversion.

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

Is that easy to do? Im pretty sure it IS, but..... just wanna know.

For someone with little to no A/C knowledge it's a minefield.

[Deadly Sushi]

Originally Posted by hill8570

Typically the compressor won't cycle at all if the pressure is too low -- it's usually necessary to override the pressure switch when charging a completely purged system.



Um, it's easy to completely fsck up your rig with one of those conversion kits -- it's real easy to end up with black goo contaminating your entire system. Unlike years past, R-12 isn't super expensive these days -- I don't see the point of doing such a conversion.

CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!

come ON! Why is it every time something breaks on me its a huge PITA!?!?

OK..... so where do i get R-12 then?

[Stillrunning]

Originally Posted by Deadly Sushi

OK..... so where do i get R-12 then?

You can't but it without a licence and you probably won't be able to find anyone willing to work on it any more. If you can buy some it will be very expensive.