3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Need Air/Fuel Sensor-Connector Pin #'s for Resistance Check ( P1135 )
Camry noob here.
I have that P1135 check-engine error code in my 2001 LE Camry (4 cyl; 5S-FE) so i'm trying check the resistance of the Air/Fuel sensor heater element before buying a new A/F sensor. I bought a Haynes Camry repair manual for the 2001 Camry.
I'm not sure how to tell if i have a "California" spec'd car (the car was sold new in New York State). How do i tell?
Even a noob like me can spot the many problems with the Haynes manual.
For example, The Haynes manual says to check the resistance across the A/F fuel sensor connector at pin locations called +B and HT (normal is 0.8 to 14 ohms). But my connector has only number markings of 1, 2, 3 and 4. There are no letter-markings. And the poorly-drawn diagrams and in the Haynes manual don't reflect the A/F sensor connector in my 2001 Camry at all. Not even close!
Can somebody please cite the proper A/F sensor pin numbers to test for a 2001 Camry?
Somebody elsewhere gave wire colors, but we all know that wire colors can be unreliable guides. Also, if i do have a California spec'd Camry, do i need a particular variant of the Air/Fuel sensor? I rather suspect that for best performance, that i would. (The current A/F sensor is marked Denso Toyota)
Finally- it looks like there's a shield on the manifold (held on with 2 screws) that needs to be removed before i can attempt to remove the sensor (if proven to be bad). I don't have any auto tools (in fact, my tool selection is embarassingly small) . What can i use to get unscrew the A/F sensor? If i had access to the right tool i don't think i'd need to remove that shield first.
Multiple people have already told you the car was California model. It has to be in order to get a P1135 code. You must replace with A/F sensor if you find the old one is bad.
The two black wires on the connector are for the heater circuit. The sensor should be at room temperature when you measure the resistance and it should measure around 1 ohm.
+B is same as +12V at the battery (Red terminal) with ignition on.
+HTAF is the heater voltage for the sensor driven through the computer.
Wrench is right with what he's saying, the two black wires are the correct ones.
Last edited by jmborchers; 06-03-2009 at 02:58 PM.
Multiple people have already told you the car was California model. It has to be in order to get a P1135 code. You must replace with A/F sensor if you find the old one is bad.
The two black wires on the connector are for the heater circuit.
As I said, i know from experience that going by wire-color is unreliable for a number of reasons. I've even seen red and black reversed. That's another reason why i need to know the designation for pins 1 through 4.
Also, a nearby Toyota dealer says my VIN # is not checking out as one for a Calif spec'd car.
Quote:
The sensor should be at room temperature when you measure the resistance and it should measure around 1 ohm.
0.8 to 1.4 ohms at 68 degrees.
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+B is same as +12V at the battery (Red terminal) with ignition on.
Both of my terminals are red. See what i mean? S**t happens. +B does not
compute! I have no such markings, only pin #'s 1-4. I need pinout info in numeric format.
Quote:
+HTAF is the heater voltage for the sensor driven through the computer.
Sadly, that doesn't help me at all. Nothing is marked with such lettering. Only Pin numbers.
Last edited by SaganGathering; 06-03-2009 at 06:36 PM.
Multiple people have already told you the car was California model. It has to be in order to get a P1135 code.
Jim, you missed my posting about my VIN #. The Toyota dealership said my VIN # does NOT check out as a Calif. spec'd car.
To make things even more confusing, i'd seen non-Calif Camry owners mention P1135 error online. I'd love to think i can trust your word over anyone elses, but even Toyota's dealers are scratching their head over this odd car. Can you tell me specifically where in the Toyota docs is states that only Calif models get P1135 error codes? I want to point the dealer to this section so we can resolve this squirrely mystery and move on!
BTW, never ever go by wire color. I have seen too many instances of wire color not being reliable. Use pinouts instead.
Generally there should be 3 colors in the 4 wires. 2 of which are going to be the same, then those two should be the heater element. Sounds like in your case it's Red.
Generally there should be 3 colors in the 4 wires. 2 of which are going to be the same, then those two should be the heater element. Sounds like in your case it's Red.
Like I said, i need the Pin Numbers on the connector that are for the heating circuit. Trusting that wires are always the correct color bite you sooner or later. Besides, I checked again and all of my wires are the same color. Case in point.
I looked at the PDF pointed to in another thread and it too had the non-numeric A/F sensor connector reference. WTF.
People here on Toyota Nation can't even agree if the car is Calif (some say trust the hood sticker, others say trust the VIN # [which is not Calif]). One guy says p1135 can only come from Calif cars, but the dealer insists that the VIN # shows this is not a Calif car. This car is endless frustration. I'm no farther along than i was over a week ago.
Seriously people. Somebody must have a manual with the pin numbers. There are no letters on my connector. No HT or B. Just 1-4.
Like I said, i need the Pin Numbers on the connector that are for the heating circuit. Trusting that wires are always the correct color bite you sooner or later. Besides, I checked again and all of my wires are the same color. Case in point.
I looked at the PDF pointed to in another thread and it too had the non-numeric A/F sensor connector reference. WTF.
People here on Toyota Nation can't even agree if the car is Calif (some say trust the hood sticker, others say trust the VIN # [which is not Calif]). One guy says p1135 can only come from Calif cars, but the dealer insists that the VIN # shows this is not a Calif car. This car is endless frustration. I'm no farther along than i was over a week ago.
Seriously people. Somebody must have a manual with the pin numbers. There are no letters on my connector. No HT or B. Just 1-4.
Hi, try this. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 (or terminals 1 and 2). Resistance between 11-16 at 68F for oxygen senor and 0.8-14 for a/f sensor.
I'm not sure how to tell if i have a "California" spec'd car (the car was sold new in New York State). How do i tell?
Can somebody please cite the proper A/F sensor pin numbers to test for a 2001 Camry?
Somebody elsewhere gave wire colors, but we all know that wire colors can be unreliable guides. Also, if i do have a California spec'd Camry, do i need a particular variant of the Air/Fuel sensor? I rather suspect that for best performance, that i would. (The current A/F sensor is marked Denso Toyota)
Finally- it looks like there's a shield on the manifold (held on with 2 screws) that needs to be removed before i can attempt to remove the sensor (if proven to be bad). I don't have any auto tools (in fact, my tool selection is embarassingly small) . What can i use to get unscrew the A/F sensor? If i had access to the right tool i don't think i'd need to remove that shield first.
Hi, try this. Measure the resistance between pins 1 and 2 (or terminals 1 and 2). Resistance between 11-16 at 68F for oxygen senor and 0.8-1.4 ohms for a/f sensor.
Hi MagicLeaf. Thanks! Your pin #s helped me confirm that problem. In this reply i took the liberty of inserting the forgotten decimal place^ to make the top limit 1.4 ohms.
I got infinite resistance, so either the wire is ruined or the heating element in the sensor is cracked or something like that. At 122K+ i suspect it's the sensor. The wiring wasn't held in the clamp either, which struck me as odd. A couple of the manual mention that clamp but i can't see any way it could clamp anything with a big connector on the end.
So now that we know it's likely the A/F sensor, which kind to get now? California spec or Other/Non-Calif?
I called the dealer who originally sold the car, and spoke to the parts guy. The VIN #is for an "All 50 states emissions" car and he too said it's not a California car. I pointed out that if it complies with Calif emissions, and Calif is a state, would that not make it a Calif car? He said definitely not. Huh? He also said he didn't understand it either and it was frustrating, but that's all the info Toyota gives them. So I read him my Denso/Toyota A/F sensor installed now (89467 33020) and he said that was a part for... Argh, i forget if it was Calif or non-Calif. I do recall him being a bit at a loss though.
He also said that a p1135 error code is *not* specific to only Calif spec'd cars.
He said that an error code px135 is generally usually about Air Fuel sensors but that the P1135 i got is specific and more detailed. He said that the Toyota-specific diagnostics equipment will get more info out of my car than the OBD II readers at AutoZone. Is there any merit to this claim - at least in regards to a p1135 errorcode?
Last edited by SaganGathering; 06-10-2009 at 11:41 PM.
Hi Sagangathering,
From what I know, a camry 01, non-California emission, does not use a/f ratio sensor. It has two oxygen sensors (1 front and 1 rear). The Toyota part 8946733020 you provided seems to be for an air/fuel ratio sensor. Thus, your car has California emission. It should be clear that a California emission car can be used in any state but not vice versa. We bought a camry LE, v6, in VA back 1999. First, i had assumed it should be non-california because it was sold by a dealer in VA but I was wrong. It has a California emission. Some dealer seven boast about it. It just emits clear exhaust and cause more to fix (headache).
Check under your hood again. I checked mine last time and it said California even though the car was sold in VA. You can get an a/f sensor (Toyota part 8946733020) for $140 (including shipping) from ebay for your car. Good luck.
Hi Sagangathering,
From what I know, a camry 01, non-California emission, does not use a/f ratio sensor. It has two oxygen sensors (1 front and 1 rear).
FWIW, the Hayne Camry manual for 2001 states that the 2001 Camry was the first Camry to use a Air Fuel sensor at the manifold instead of an O2 sensor.
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The Toyota part 8946733020 you provided seems to be for an air/fuel ratio sensor. Thus, your car has California emission. It should be clear that a California emission car can be used in any state but not vice versa.
You would think. But 2 dealers have said no, it's not a Calif emissions car. SO i'm just going to replace by exact part # and hope that the part in there now is original equipment.
Quote:
Check under your hood again. I checked mine last time and it said California even though the car was sold in VA.
The hood sticker said it's OK for all 50 states and Calif. Which, as Venn diagram logic suggests, makes it a Calif-compatible car. But the Toyota dealers say no. I'd tend to go with the VIN #, and it's coming up as an "all 50 states emission" car. Whatever that means. ToyoDIY checked my VIN # and said it has a checksum error. WTF?
You can get an a/f sensor (Toyota part 8946733020) for $140 (including shipping) from ebay for your car. Good luck.[/quote]
Before making a decision on what part to buy, why don't you call Toyota corporate customer service at 1-800-331-4331 and ask them if it is California spec car or a 49 states car. Have your VIN handy to give them.
Before making a decision on what part to buy, why don't you call Toyota corporate customer service at 1-800-331-4331 and ask them if it is California spec car or a 49 states car. Have your VIN handy to give them.
Mike
Thanks Mike, i'll do that. i'd also heard that there was a warranty extension on some of the Camrys and their A/F sensors. Think Toyota will be straight with me about that?
Thanks Mike, i'll do that. i'd also heard that there was a warranty extension on some of the Camrys and their A/F sensors. Think Toyota will be straight with me about that?
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Need Air/Fuel Sensor-Connector Pin #'s for Resistance Check ( P1135 )
Hi MagicLeaf. Thanks! Your pin #s helped me confirm that problem. In this reply i took the liberty of inserting the forgotten decimal place^ to make the top limit 1.4 ohms.
California or not?
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