3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I completed this procedure at 213,000 km on my 1996 Camry 2.2L DX. Note that the fuel filler tube and vent tube were perforated with rust.
Disclaimer
Use this guide at your own risk! I assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide. Any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received and incorporated where possible.
Time Required
It took me about 4 hours from start to finish, including time to take photos and make notes. Mechanically, it is a pretty easy repair requiring no special tools. The hardest part was removing the rusted bolts, especially the bolt holding the lower bracket. The location of this bolt was such that if the bolt broke off, it would be impossible to drill and re-tap the bolt hole due to a suspension member blocking access. As it turns out the hole on the aftermarket Spectra fuel filler tube that I used did not line up with this bolt hole in the frame, so the 20 minutes, I spent getting the bolt out without breaking it, turned out to be in vain. More on this later. If I had to do this again, I think I could reasonably pare this down to 2 hours.
Parts:
a) Spectra FN512 fuel filler tube ($123.16 CDN taxes included – Parts Source)
b) Two 2” SS hose gear clamps + two ¾” SS hose gear clamps ($4 CDN – Home Depot)
Shop Supplies:
a) Anti-seize compound
b) Stainless steel replacement bolts
c) Penetrating oil
1. Loosen lug nuts on left (driver side) rear wheel. Block front tires. Raise and support rear of car on jack stands. Remove the wheel.
2. Remove the splash guard. Three Philips screws (two circled in red + red arrow pointing to the one underneath).
3. Remove the plastic fender liner. First remove the two bolts (10mm) – red circle + red arrow. Note that one of the bolts is shorter than the other two. I wasn’t paying attention, so I am not sure where the shorter one goes.
4. There are three plastic retaining clips (blue circles above) holding the fender liner at the bottom. Gently, but firmly pull the plastic fender liner away from the fender. The heads of the three retaining clips will deform a bit, but this is OK.
5. Use a slot screwdriver to push the plastic latch down in order to release the fender liner.
6. Set the fender liner aside. This is what you will now see.
7. Remove the three plastic retaining clips by pinching two corners on the back of them with a needle nose pliers and pulling them out of the square holes in the sheet metal. Keep the three retainers in a safe place.
8. Remove the bracket (red arrow) holding the fuel filler tube. The large bolt requires a 12mm socket. The two smaller M6 x 1.0 x 16mm bolts require a 10mm socket. These were easy to access and remove. One of the smaller bolt heads snapped, so I simply drilled and re-tapped with a M6x1.0 tap.
9. Remove the bolt securing the lower bracket (12mm socket). This one was rusted solid and difficult to remove due to a lack of room above the suspension member. I got it started with a 3/8” drive M12 socket and power bar, then worked it out with my 3/8” wratchet. It took me 20 minutes to get this bolt out, slowly, back and forth with penetrating oil. I didn’t want to snap the bolt because it would be impossible to drill and re-tap this bolt hole due to the location. This was probably the hardest part of this repair.
10. Remove the four gear hose clamps securing the two flexible fuel lines to the filler tube and the gas tank. These clamps came off real easy. Two of them disintegrated during disassembly. I replaced all four clamps with new stainless steel gear clamps. (10mm socket required).
11. I had some difficulty removing the rubber fuel hoses. I eventually removed the large hose at the gas tank side by grasping it and twisting it. I couldn’t budge it at the fuel filler tube end, but it came free pretty easy at the gas tank end. I couldn’t budge the smaller fuel vent hose at either end, so, what I ended up doing is jamming a slot screwdriver in between the hose and the filler vent tube in about 5 different locations around the diameter of the hose. This broke the grip of the rubber hose on the metal tube and I could then twist it off.
Note my nice new shiny brake lines - those were replaced last week. They were another casualty of the salt that they throw on the roads here in Ontario during the winter months.
12. Pull the old fuel filler tube out. Note that it is simply a slide fit into rubber grommet at the top. There is no retaining clip holding it in. Compare the old with the new and breath easy – the rest of this repair is a piece of cake.
13. Remove the rubber hose from the fuel filler tube.
14. Slide the fuel hose onto the new fuel filler tube as far as it will go. Don’t put the clamp on yet. You will need to orient the clamp in the correct manner once the fuel filler tube is on the car to make it accessible for others in the future.
15. Install the first bracket and tighten the bolts. I replaced the broken bolt with a stainless steel bolt and applied a generous amount of anti-seize on the bolts and bracket.
16. I found that the hole on the second bracket was a “country mile” away from the bolt hole on the frame of the vehicle. I yanked on the new fuel filler tube and it felt very rigid, so I left the second bolt off. All the work to get the bolt out without breaking it was totally in vain!
17. Push the fuel hoses on as far as they will go. Install and tighten all four hose gear clamps. I think I could have got away with 1.5” hose clamps on the large fuel hose, instead of the 2” clamps that I bought.
18. Some photos of the new fuel filler tube installed.
19. Install the fender liner. Push the three plastic retaining clips into the square holes. Install the splash guard.
20. Install the wheel, remove the jack stands, lower the car and tighten the wheel nuts to 80 ftlbs. Enjoy your new fuel filler tube!
__________________
2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 70K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 48K miles
three quick questions - why didnt you replace the rubber parts, when did you first notice a leak (just curious how long it took that hole to get so large) and did you get any CELs?
Q1) Stealership wanted $60 for the large rubber hose + $25 for the small rubber hose. I am planning to upgrade my 1996 Camry to a 2002 next year when a friend trades his in, so I am only keeping this one for 1 more year. Both hoses are not currently leaking + they looked to be in relatively good condition. If it ain't broke, it ain't getting fixed at this time.
Q2) My original plan was to scrape the old filler tube, treat it with rust converter and prime/spray paint it to squeeze one more year out of it. One hit with the scraper and I went right through, forcing me to replace. Prior to this, no leaks.
Q3) I tie wrapped some silicone rubber sheet over the two holes and drove it this way for a 3 days to wait until the gas level was a bit lower before replacing the tube. NO codes during this time.
__________________
2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 70K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 48K miles
If I remember correctly, I did mine somewhere between 1/3-1/2 on the gas gage. I can't say with certainty, but I suspect that you would be OK even at 3/4 tank because the filler line is near the top of the tank and the car was jacked up from the rear, causing the fuel to flow toward the front of the tank. If you were replacing on a level surface, I would target 1/2 a tank or less.
__________________
2002 Camry 2.4L Auto - 70K miles
2008 Corolla 1.8L Auto - 48K miles
Really helpful write up here! Thanks a lot! Was able to use it to do the same thing with my 1996 es300. Though managed to find someone on Ebay that sold an after market tube for the Camry so the holes lined up.
The old tube fell into about 7 pieces while getting it off surprised it didn't start leaking sooner.
Thank you so much, even if it's been ages since it was done, but hey, isn't it the reason why people do DIYs; so they could be used by others in the future...
Just bought the filler neck from local ebayer here in Montreal for 75$ and i was just missing the info your DIY has; so now I'm good to go for tomorrow. I was kinda fed up tanking the ground for 2 liters every time I'd go fill my baby up
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
DIY: 1996 Camry Fuel Filler Tube Replacement Procedure 5S-FE (GEN3)
surprised it didn't start leaking sooner.
Linear Mode
