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Old 06-16-2009, 12:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Bad connection between battery/starter? Please help!

Hello everyone -- to preface, I'm a 27 female, with little car knowledge, so please excuse my terminology, as it may be wrong!

My '93 Camry is having a problem somewhere between the ignition and the starter. When I turn the key, it turns, the electrical comes on, but the engine does not turn at all, no clicking, nothing.

A gentleman showed me how to essentially hotwire it by disconnecting the ignition switch and using a wire directly from the battery to the starter, and it turns fine and starts. So the starter is not getting a charge to start.

The next day, reconnected the ignition switch to try it, and it worked just like normal all day. I thought it was fixed. However, on day three, it stopped again, and I returned to the hotwire situation.

Things I've Tried:
-Charge directly to starter, works fine, no problem with starter.
-Cleaned battery, it has a good connection.
-Tried turning key in park and neutral, will not start in either, no turnover or engine or clicking.
-The fact that the engine started normally on day two implies that there is not problem with the ignition switch.

Any ideas? Is there anything else in the relay that could be bad? I'd really like to save some money and try fixing this at home before I give up and take it to a garage.

Thanks everyone!!
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Listen very carefully when it doesn't start and see if you hear 1 click. If so, you could have the common worn starter solenoid contacts problem. If this is the case, do a search on this forum for "starter contacts" and read up on the problem and it's cures. You can also test for this problem when it doesn't start by taking a hammer or a wrench and tapping on the starter's solenoid and then try to start the car. If the car now starts you have identified this problem.

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Old 06-16-2009, 03:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I tried it, no click. I also tried knocking on the top of the starter, which doesn't seem to help, either.

Any other suggestions, out there?
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Hi and welcome to TN. Judging from the info you first posted, the starter relay may be your problem. I gather you ran a wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid on the starter. If that starts the car but turning the key doesn't, you probably aren't getting voltage at the solenoid which means the relay isn't working.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:20 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Cheap fix anyways, thanks for coming by this forum. Relay, starter solenoid, or wiring. DO not exchange your starter out to any repair place, they built these starters to last forever. Just have the solenoid rebuilt if they advise it and it is normal for it to wear out eventually, if you use the starter allot, basically the solenoid pushes live electrical copper contact points that are connected directly to your battery to get to a larger motor can run and turn the motor over. The above poster pointed out to the rebuild for the contacts if need be, it very simple, as is taking the starter off the car. Then go to the starter repair shop and ask for the contacts, but read the writeup on it first as it tells you everything. Also, check your wiring, could be loose, weak or old battery itself, or bad battery connection can fool the troubleshooting procedure. Volt meter will check your relay. Usually, a simple and cheap repair, the contacts themselves should be only a few dollars. Happy trails.

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Old 07-29-2009, 08:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Did you ever find the problem?

I was curious as to whether or not you ever diagnosed the problem? I am having the exact same problem and it is driving me crazy. I get nothing when I turn the key but if I wire the solenoid to the positive post the starter turns? I replaced the relay to no avail. Did you rebuild the solenoid? Any suggestions from anyone out there? Thanks

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Old 07-29-2009, 09:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Have a helper use a volt meter. measure the voltage at the point where you jumper the starer, the other probe at the battery. Do you see battery voltage 12V when turning the key to Start?

Also check the 5A starter relay fuse, starter relay. If the starter is good, likely one of those two are bad. The less likely third cause is your ignition switch.


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I tried it, no click. I also tried knocking on the top of the starter, which doesn't seem to help, either.

Any other suggestions, out there?
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This is what a starter relay looks like:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=939378

$11.30+shipping
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I/m sorry

I sorry but I neglected to say that my car is a 95 5sfe. I replaced the relay to no avail but I haven't seen a 5a fuse. Where would I locate it?What would it be labeled?
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Another question

Would a neutral safety switch cause the same problem?
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I don't know detailed fuse location on the 1995. However, your manual should be able to tell you that. There is a fuse box in the engine bay and the other in the cabin. I'd look for "Starter" or "ST" or "ST 5A", something like that. The 5A fuse is mean to protect the coil part of the relay. The switch part of the relay sends high current to the starter.

If you pull the relay and if you have a voltmeter, then you can try to test for voltage at the relay, coil side. If you turn the switch and no voltage there, then you know it's upstream of the relay (fuse or ignition switch).

If your turn the ignition switch and no voltage at the 5A fuse, then it's likely the iginition switch, assuming all wirings are still good.

If you can get it to start with direct jumper, then the starter solenoid built into the starter should be fine.

Sorry couldn't be more help.


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I sorry but I neglected to say that my car is a 95 5sfe. I replaced the relay to no avail but I haven't seen a 5a fuse. Where would I locate it?What would it be labeled?
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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BTW, to probe for voltage you put the negative meter probe to ground. Positive probe on the upstream side of the 5A fuse or the upstream side of the starter relay coil side.

Here is an article on relay and testing:

http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodules/relays/101.html

For example, on page 21 as well as the relay picture I posted, the coil side are pins 1-2, the switch side are pins 3-4.
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:25 AM   #13 (permalink)
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also check the clutch safety switch if it has a manual transmission

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Would a neutral safety switch cause the same problem?
We've been resurecting my 1993 Geo Prizm for my nephew, and we had the same puzzling situation occur. In our case, the car was a 5-speed standard and something happened to the switch on the clutch pedal so that we currently have to reach up under the dash and press the switch (all the way in) by hand. We'll probably try to tape some cardboard or a few pennies onto the pedal so that it pushes the switch in all the way. (So if you have a standard, definitely check this (in addition to the neutral saftey switch.)

--
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes, if other faults in the NSS doesn't set the MIL light first.

Notice the two large contacts in the center group. While in P or N (parking brake applied, wheels chocked), these two should have continuity IIRC.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=934333

For a manual transmission if the switch here is faulty just change it:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=929305


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Would a neutral safety switch cause the same problem?
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Bob -- just change out the switch. Order from rockauto.com. It's more reliable that way than taped cardboard.

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We've been resurecting my 1993 Geo Prizm for my nephew, and we had the same puzzling situation occur. In our case, the car was a 5-speed standard and something happened to the switch on the clutch pedal so that we currently have to reach up under the dash and press the switch (all the way in) by hand. We'll probably try to tape some cardboard or a few pennies onto the pedal so that it pushes the switch in all the way. (So if you have a standard, definitely check this (in addition to the neutral saftey switch.)

--
Bob
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