3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Been at the shop 7 hours now....When I came in this morning, my new head (5sfe decked .040, did my own port and polish - never again)had all of the exhaust valve springs in, intake side only had one installed. Installed the last 7 valvesprings WITHOUT THE USE OF A VALVESPRING COMPRESSOR (not recommended) because the one here doesn't reach below the VC gasket sealing surface. I used a regular pair of pliers with the jaw set wide. Once that was done, I began cleaning up the cams that came with the new one - and then I saw a bunch of aluminum blow out of the oil passages. Whoops - I did the P&P right next to the uncovered cams, thinking that I'd just clean them up after. Oh, well.
The car was on the hoist when I came in, entirely together. Had to tear down far enough to take the cams out so I could install them in the new head and set valve clearances (WHICH BLOWS GOATS, BY THE WAY). With the cams out of the old head and the clearances set in the new head, I removed the old head (doing all this because of a damn oil leak off the back of the head.) and was able to see my leaks. At 195.5k, the factory fiber head gasket was in terrible shape. Happily, the sealing rings around the cylinders were still in good shape. However, the orange rubber o-rings bonded into the oil return passages (down the back of the head, between each cylinder)were broken and displaced. HA! I can't tell you how many times I was told it was my valve cover. Granted, that's what it usually is - but I can tell the difference, and most of the people should have known it.
So, at this point, my new head is clearanced, and I just have to take the cams out again so I can drop it on. I just ground down the alignment collars a little bit because they will be too long if you deck the head more than 0.030". Going to have a well-deserved cigarette, then gonna install the head on the freshly scrubbed block with a metal head gasket (ordered the '98 kit), and start reinstalling everything. I was pretty cavalier in telling the machinist that the tensioner would fit, but after looking at it, I'm crossing my fingers. Also, I need to slot the distributor housing for adjustability because, while I am ok with retarding the cams 1.5 degrees, I want to advance the timing as much as possible.
Will post more later on. I would have taken a ton of pics and done a diy, but the wife took the camera to a wedding.
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1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
Sweet job man, I do have a question though, how did you remove the damn valve springs. I bought a valve spring compressor but it doesn't fit over the valve spring and the valve spring wall.
__________________ 99 5s w/ V6 '01 Solara Brake Conversion & 1985 AW11 MR2 5spd Camry:Tokico Blue's w/ Ebiach Lowering Springs on Motegi FF7 17" Rims with FALKEN ALL SEASON SPORT TIRES MR2: 7A-GE
FS: Gen 4.5 Clear lense/JVC HU&Radar
Set the head on a table, get an extension and socket (I used a 6" extension and a 15mm deep socket, I think. It doesn't really matter as long as you can keep control of everything.) set the socket over the valvespring retainer, and give it a light smack with a hammer. It doesn't always happen on the first time, but the keepers fall off the valve stem and the spring unloads. This is why I used the safety glasses and extension, it drastically reduces the chances of getting shot in the face with socket, retainer, or keeper. I saw a kid get shot in the eyeball with a keeper @ the last place I worked.
As for reinstalling with the pliers, it sucks and I got lucky because the 5s-fe valvesprings are soft like pamela anderson.
__________________
1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
jcamry94: the 5sfe is a dog, I can't make it a racing horse. I rolled my eyes as soon as I saw the horrible port designs, it's never going to flow much. Honestly, I expect the most power from shaving the heads - I cc'd my head once the valves were back in, CC volume dropped from 49cc to 34.
LN5: sweet looking tool, wish I had known.
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1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
jcamry94: the 5sfe is a dog, I can't make it a racing horse. I rolled my eyes as soon as I saw the horrible port designs, it's never going to flow much. Honestly, I expect the most power from shaving the heads - I cc'd my head once the valves were back in, CC volume dropped from 49cc to 34.
LN5: sweet looking tool, wish I had known.
Even a professionally ported, polished, shaved, valved, etc shouldn't be able to flow as much as say a 3sgte, etc..
You have a dx so I'm assuming you've got a 5 spd then too though? That will at least let you make the most of this swap.
yeah, I thought about getting a -ge head, but it'd drop the CR too much, and I'd have to replace SOOOO much stuff...too much work for a daily driver. I put all the specs into a CR calculator, and I hope I got some of it wrong...I don't want a 13:1 engine...I was planning on relying on the overly rich and overly retarded nature of the stock tuning...if it's that high, I'll be relying on premium gas and retarding the timing even more. poo.
update: cams are in, gonna put the exhaust side back together then go go-kart racing in about an hour. Back to the shop in the afternoon. Still have to slot the distrib housing, reinstall the fuel rail/injectors, install the intake manifold, and put the valve cover on, too. Then change oil, refill coolant, and hopefully it runs. I wasn't too worried about that until I calculated c/r.
__________________
1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
Maybe I should have gotten a -ge head and decked THAT .040. My C/R is 13.5:1. Individual cylinder pressures are between 180 and 195. Scared about breaking the timing belt at this point. My tensioner is maxed out, which means I may be modifying that soon to alter its geometry. I also have to modify the cam gear to fix my 5 degree retarded timing. Car is running right now, idles ok (high strung) but I'm gonna park it and go home tonight.
__________________
1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
yeah, well they run methanol and superchargers. And they have lots of money to fix whatever breaks. i don't, and I'm kind of worried. I did start a thread tonight for suggestions to solve my sudden problem...
__________________
1996 Camry Sport (that's a DX Coupe with decals) with 186k
european cars are just like japanese cars, just heavier and more expensive.
7 ASE's.
my professor is a NHRA drag racer and he isn't rich, he let a couple of students work on his B1 engine...so he definitely isnt rich, but umm try getting a thicker HG to drop it some.. get a 2mm one if possible
__________________ 99 5s w/ V6 '01 Solara Brake Conversion & 1985 AW11 MR2 5spd Camry:Tokico Blue's w/ Ebiach Lowering Springs on Motegi FF7 17" Rims with FALKEN ALL SEASON SPORT TIRES MR2: 7A-GE
FS: Gen 4.5 Clear lense/JVC HU&Radar
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o.m.g. swapping a head sucks!
(not recommended) because the one here doesn't reach below the VC gasket sealing surface. I used a regular pair of pliers with the jaw set wide. Once that was done, I began cleaning up the cams that came with the new one - and then I saw a bunch of aluminum blow out of the oil passages.
Whoops - I did the P&P right next to the uncovered cams, thinking that I'd just clean them up after. Oh, well.
I can't tell you how many times I was told it was my valve cover. Granted, that's what it usually is - but I can tell the difference, and most of the people should have known it.
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