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Ok... well my mechanic first replaced the ECU. That didn't help. Then he found where the Solenoid E was and he replaced that. The CEL went off for a few days and all the sudden it came back on out of nowhere today while driving.
Now, I'm thinking I have some kind of electrical short that keeps shorting out the Shift Solenoid, which in turn makes the CEL pop back up. You would think as a Transmission Mechanic he would of did the basic stuff first, including checking the voltage with a meter. Anybody have any ideas? I'm lost!
Last edited by Camry LE 94; 05-15-2010 at 02:25 AM.
Most mechanics, unfortunately, do not properly diagnose the cause of the problem. They see an OBD code and just slap a new part on there, Solenoid E or catalytic converter.
A second failure like this may be caused by debris in the system too. Have you ever had the strainer replaced and pan cleaned? A Fram ATF kit is only about $15-20. Cleanliness is very important here and so is the ATF fluid level.
You can pull the Shift E and apply power to see if it engages and such. Get a mechanically inclined friend to help if you are not comfortable.
Are you actually getting torque converter lockup at speeds > 50 mph? ie. if u take ur foot off the gas at that speed or higher, do the rpms suddenly change?
If a solenoid replacement has not fixed it, It may be an issue with your torque converter itself (the lockup clutch is fried) or the valve body in the trans. Check the condition of your fluid. You may want to have the pan dropped to take a look at the magnets and any other junk that is coming off the trans.
Most mechanics, unfortunately, do not properly diagnose the cause of the problem. They see an OBD code and just slap a new part on there, Solenoid E or catalytic converter.
A second failure like this may be caused by debris in the system too. Have you ever had the strainer replaced and pan cleaned? A Fram ATF kit is only about $15-20. Cleanliness is very important here and so is the ATF fluid level.
You can pull the Shift E and apply power to see if it engages and such. Get a mechanically inclined friend to help if you are not comfortable.
As Dave Mc said in regards to my fluid... It is actually pretty dark. With the type of driving I do (delivering pizza in a small city), my fluid tends to get burnt pretty damn quick. I had gotten my fluid changed out after my O/D went at the beginning of this year, and I noticed a few months ago that my fluid was once again dark. Should I get another fluid exchange done or should I just replace the strainer and clean the pan?
I read the ATF exchange thread twice over so I'd feel pretty comfortable doing this myself. And I still remember the website you put out for us Dave Mc. I will be ordering the stuff from there.
Are you actually getting torque converter lockup at speeds > 50 mph? ie. if u take ur foot off the gas at that speed or higher, do the rpms suddenly change?
If a solenoid replacement has not fixed it, It may be an issue with your torque converter itself (the lockup clutch is fried) or the valve body in the trans. Check the condition of your fluid. You may want to have the pan dropped to take a look at the magnets and any other junk that is coming off the trans.
dave mc
question... since the torque converter functions as an automatic clutch that keeps the car from stalling when at a stop, is it possible that when the torque converter fails, it periodically makes the car jump at idle due to the tcc being faulty? because thats what im experiencing here and there at stop lights. if it's possible for the tcc to function improperly and still make the car jump periodically, then A LOT of sense would be made!
Davemac2 is right. There are many reasons why a Shift E solenoid code is set. A simple voltage/compressed air test should rule out the solenoid itself (you may even find it working!). Any with transmission issues fluid condition and level is another. With these two out of the way, the lock-up clutch is another place to look at.
If you're delivering pizza at low speeds stop-and-go, I'd hope you drain/refill the fluid at 7500 mile intervals. And change the strainer at 15000 intervals. It's perfectly ok to use Walmart Supertech Dexron II/III compatible fluid. It's economical and works very well. The problem is not so much the fluid life but the amount of debris loading too. To change synthetics at this kind of interval is expensive. However, I believe SuperTech Ford-approved Mercon V is Dexron II/III compatible. This is an inexpensive way to go semi-synthetics.
Your Aisin A series transmission (140E) is decent but very dirty because it's not filtered (only strainered). To me, strainer is bad news, I like to see modern transmissions filtered.
If your OD went out once before, you may have a lot of junk in the system. The dark fluid may mean you still have some slippage problem (I hope not).
You can do a fluid exchange, but definitely drop the pan, change out the strainer, wipe everything clean. You're likely to find a lot of black particles -- those are from steel plate wear and they can plug valves bodies.
Again, cleanliness and fluild level are important during service.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camry LE 94
Should I get another fluid exchange done or should I just replace the strainer and clean the pan?
I read the ATF exchange thread twice over so I'd feel pretty comfortable doing this myself. And I still remember the website you put out for us Dave Mc. I will be ordering the stuff from there.
The lock-up clutch operates only at highway steady cruising speeds (low throttle). So you go into lock-up only when in OD and at steady cruising (even for a shorter period).
Maybe that explains your OD failure as you frequently shift in and out in local driving?
The jerking may mean that the Solenoid E is stuck open?? Causing the clutch to engage when it shouldn't??
If you blow compressed air into the tip of your old Shift E valve, does it leak air out the side? During testing you may be able to disconnect the Shift E, then you should have lock-up at all, and maybe no jerking at idle.
Just my guesses. Let us know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camry LE 94
question... since the torque converter functions as an automatic clutch that keeps the car from stalling when at a stop, is it possible that when the torque converter fails, it periodically makes the car jump at idle due to the tcc being faulty? because thats what im experiencing here and there at stop lights. if it's possible for the tcc to function improperly and still make the car jump periodically, then A LOT of sense would be made!
Maybe that explains your OD failure as you frequently shift in and out in local driving?
The jerking may mean that the Solenoid E is stuck open?? Causing the clutch to engage when it shouldn't??
If you blow compressed air into the tip of your old Shift E valve, does it leak air out the side? During testing you may be able to disconnect the Shift E, then you should have lock-up at all, and maybe no jerking at idle.
well the Solenoid E was replaced by my mechanic... therefore i dont think the new one would be stuck open. and im not exactly sure what the Shift E valve is
The lock-up clutch operates only at highway steady cruising speeds (low throttle). So you go into lock-up only when in OD and at steady cruising (even for a shorter period).
Maybe that explains your OD failure as you frequently shift in and out in local driving?
My OD failed because I kept it on while working, and the fluid finally got to its worst possible point and my transmission stopped shifting after a stop at a stop sign. Now I keep it off during city driving and i only put it on when im doing 40+ mph.
The manual says always keep OD on, but in these situations, as you found out, it's better to keep it OFF.
Also, the solenoid may act like an electro-magnet and attract steel particles. Not sure if this is part of the problem. But I'd work on getting the system cleaned up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camry LE 94
My OD failed because I kept it on while working, and the fluid finally got to its worst possible point and my transmission stopped shifting after a stop at a stop sign. Now I keep it off during city driving and i only put it on when im doing 40+ mph.
Well my mechanic hasn't gotten anywhere with the CEL "Shift Solenoid E" yet. He's replaced a sensor, put a new tranny filter on, changed the actual Solenoid E (which fixed the problem for 3 days but the CEL came back)... Now he's going to try putting a new 'computer' in. I don't know whats going on anymore. He said my car is a 'problem car'...
Does anyone have any specific ideas as to what the problem could be to help me out? Let me know please... This is very frustrating.
__________________
1996 Toyota Camry DX [230K]
DEPO Chrome HL's w/ converted Nokya Arctic White 9005 low beams, CF Dash Kit, 14" AR Rims
That's a red flag right there. Your mechanic is replacing parts hoping to fix a problem. And so far clearly that's not working.
I definitely would not allow the ECU swap ($$$) right now. Not at least he is able to rule out the valve body fluid circuit and at least check main line pressure and then inspect the valve body.
From what you are describing, you are having problem with clutch packs/brake bands wear in that transmission. And some of these problems now may stem from that. I suspect the friction material (like brake pads) may be half way shot. But you should try the easy stuff first:
1. You already did the strainer and cleaned the pan.
What did the mechanic find in terms of debris?
2. The OLD shift E solenoid, is it working properly? That is, not plugged up by metallic debris (the solenoid coil is like a magnet and traps steel debris from clutch packs). Do you see any of that metal debris causing problems?
3. Have a tranny shop check the line pressure. Is it above the minimum at idle and at 3000 rpm?
After this it can get involved:
4. With all the debris in the system, it's possible that the valves in the valve body can stick. I would pull the valve body and inspect it. Clean the VB and replace the gaskets while at it. VB gasket kits are relatively cheap at tranny supply shops, like www.transtarindustries.com.
Steps #1-4 can all be done while the transmissions is in the car and are relatively cheap compared to #5.
5. If Steps #1-4 don't solve your problem you may be looking at a new torque converter or transmission rebuild. Call up Jasper Engines for a quote on a decent rebuilt transmission. IIRC they started carrying A140 series? www.jasperengines.com. Maybe a "new" junkyard salvage with a 90-day warranty? I hope it doesn't come to this.
Click on the blue "Find a Shop" tab near the top: www.atra.com
Transtar Industries supply shop in your (not so local) area: 68 Miles
125 Newtown Road, Suite 400
Plainview, NY 11803
Phone: 516-249-2270
Toll Free: 800-645-2242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camry LE 94
Well my mechanic hasn't gotten anywhere with the CEL "Shift Solenoid E" yet. He's replaced a sensor, put a new tranny filter on, changed the actual Solenoid E (which fixed the problem for 3 days but the CEL came back)... Now he's going to try putting a new 'computer' in. I don't know whats going on anymore. He said my car is a 'problem car'...
Does anyone have any specific ideas as to what the problem could be to help me out? Let me know please... This is very frustrating.
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Problem with Shift Solenoid E
Any transmission specialists here?
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