3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Couple Quick Questions.... working with a 1999 2.2 Camry....
1) Just started changing my own oil, and for the first time ever it's down a bit after a while. I put some cardboard under the car and it's dripping (very, very slowly) from right under the drain plug, and it is noticeably oily around the bolt. When I tightened it, I got it pretty snug, but did not push it too hard for fear of stripping the threads. How tight should that bolt be?
2) When I take the bolt off, I get both the bolt and what seems like a hardened washer as well. Was that originally supposed to be a rubber gasket that has hardened with time and is now causing a drip? Is it part of the oil pan that has come off? Did I go long enough taking my car to places that vacuumed the oil out the top that the oil drain hasn't been "exercised" enough?
I can't tell you off the top of my head what the proper torque setting is for the oil pan bolt, but you don't want to over torque it for sure. Maybe somebody can chime in with the correct torque or I'll find it eventually.
Anyway, the "hardened washer" that came off with the bolt is called a crush washer. You want to put on a new one every oil change. You can get them at the dealership. If you didn't put one on, or you re-used the old one, that could be the source of your drip.
If it's not leaking too bad, I'd just keep some cardboard under the car and keep an eye on the oil level until you're ready for another change, then put on a new crush washer, torque it properly, and see if that fixes it.
i've always used the "good'n tight" measurement for the drain pan bolt. and yes you will need to replace the crush washer when you do your next oil change. if you don't mind gettin a lil messy it's possible to change the washer out while the pan is still full of oil, just use a finger to plug the bolt on a COLD engine, and have an assistant swap the washer out for you, and replace. and since the bolt is not a load bearing bolt it does not have to be very tight, it's just gotta stay in place...
Axxis8203's method of good 'n tight is fine. Using a standard ~7" 3/8"-drive ratchet you'll feel a point there the resistance goes up and the bolt no longer moves. That's where I usually leave it at.
You have to check the manual for sure, but with a new aluminum crush washer I'd go up to 25 lb/ft. With plastic probably not. So I think it depends. Of course, I use torque wrenches a lot of places but not here. I'd prefer the aluminum ones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jderrick
Hey - thanks! Can I also get crush washers at any common auto parts store? Never heard of these things before.... Learn something new every day....
Hey - thanks! Can I also get crush washers at any common auto parts store? Never heard of these things before.... Learn something new every day....
Yep. They're usually copper. Play it by ear, the crush washer does the sealing; you just don't want it vibrating out.
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Camry history:
1990 Camry CS 5spd - Now scrap metal
1994 Camry Executive A/T - Burnt to a crisp.
1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
Toyota uses a FIBER washer to seal the drain plug bolt. Go to the dealer and get one of those. They should be under $2. Don't mess around with aftermarket washers for that amount of money, especially since the one you are now using is leaking. Also, that fiber washer does have different sides. The smooth side should be toward the oil pan to facilitate removing it form the pan the next time you do an oil change. Some Toyota techs are not even aware of that.
Not necessarily. It sounds like that is your problem but replacing every oil change is overkill. Buy two and change it the next time you change oil. Then you have a spare so if you see any leak on a later oil change you are set to replace it again. I have replaced maybe 2 of these in my life and I have been changing oil for 35 years every 3000 miles or so and my cars do not leak.
I change my crush gaskets at every oil change on all the cars I maintain. It's not worth dealing with a possible leak that you won't know exists until everything is put back together and refilled. When I did my first ATF drain/refill I re-used the original crush gasket and as soon as I refilled it and started the engine, I saw a very slight leak.
It's all personal preference but I'm with Mike on this. For the price, I just buy the crush gaskets from Toyota and not worry.
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'05 2AZ-FE @ 47K miles | '95 1MZ-FE @ 92K miles moving forward
Not necessarily. It sounds like that is your problem but replacing every oil change is overkill. Buy two and change it the next time you change oil. Then you have a spare so if you see any leak on a later oil change you are set to replace it again. I have replaced maybe 2 of these in my life and I have been changing oil for 35 years every 3000 miles or so and my cars do not leak.
Well, I guess that's just me. If I've got the bolt out, I'm putting on a new washer. I get the things for 75 cents a piece which is pretty cheap leak insurance for my money. I'd rather put a new one on every time than to wait until I see it leaking and then have to wait for my next oil change after I've dripped oil on my garage floor, my driveway, etc. That would be way more than 75 cents worth of aggravation for me.
So, I'll rephrase. "I" put on a new one every oil change. "You" may want to take some other approach.
I know Toyota used to use aluminum crush washers. I've seen fiber ones too, you can't reuse these without risking leaks like you have.
I prefer aluminum. These aluminum ones can be reused as others said, but it's always "recommended" to replace each time. In practice you don't have to.
Check out this torque wrench, frequently on sale at your local Harbor Freight:
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