New head gaskets, now overheating

[dmeeu]

I replaced the head gaskets on my 1995 Camry XLE V-6 (1MZFE). Now there is significant clacking in both heads, and the engine overheats after about 15 minutes.

I did not have any clacking in the heads before I replaced the head gaskets (I had a slight problem with coolant disappearing). Since I have what sounds like lifters clacking and a temperature problem, I am convinced that I installed the wrong gaskets. I disassembled the left head and took the gasket in to the Toyota dealer. I bought a new gasket for the left head; compared it to the one I installed; It matched, so I installed it .

I figured I was just being impatient, and that the clacking would stop as the lifters filled with oil. I also now assumed that the thermostat was stuck closed, so I replaced it.

I started the car. It clacked for 15 minutes and overheated.

I checked the gaskets from three manufacturers and they all match the one I got from Toyota. The heads and the gaskets are marked L and R, so I am sure I have them on the right side. I didn't leave any rags or parts in the heads. It would be unusual to have left a rag in the oil and the coolant ports.

I'm lost. I have taken this thing apart twice. I can't imagine what's wrong. Can anyone help?

Dave

[JohnGD]

Yeah, the iron block predecessor blows head gaskets left and right. The aluminum copy of 1MZ only seeps coolant.

Problem after a service is usually related to that service. So my guess is head gasket sealing and heat bolt torque issues. Just these two for starters.

Did you purge all if not all air out of the cooling system? Check the radiator and/or reservoir. Do you see tiny bubbles coming out?Any leaks around the head gasket area, especially in the rear bank?

Did you blow out/vacuum out the head bolt holes? Wipe the gasket surfaces free of oil and coolant?

And I won't ask for oil pressure right now, but maybe others have some ideas too.

Originally Posted by dmeeu

I replaced the head gaskets on my 1995 Camry XLE V-6 (1MZFE). Now there is significant clacking in both heads, and the engine overheats after about 15 minutes.

I did not have any clacking in the heads before I replaced the head gaskets (I had a slight problem with coolant disappearing). Since I have what sounds like lifters clacking and a temperature problem, I am convinced that I installed the wrong gaskets. I disassembled the left head and took the gasket in to the Toyota dealer. I bought a new gasket for the left head; compared it to the one I installed; It matched, so I installed it .

I figured I was just being impatient, and that the clacking would stop as the lifters filled with oil. I also now assumed that the thermostat was stuck closed, so I replaced it.

I started the car. It clacked for 15 minutes and overheated.

I checked the gaskets from three manufacturers and they all match the one I got from Toyota. The heads and the gaskets are marked L and R, so I am sure I have them on the right side. I didn't leave any rags or parts in the heads. It would be unusual to have left a rag in the oil and the coolant ports.

I'm lost. I have taken this thing apart twice. I can't imagine what's wrong. Can anyone help?

Dave

[Luckynumber5]

You didnt reuse the old head bolts did you?

[heartdisease]

Gasket upside down blocking the coolant passages?

[davemac2]

Originally Posted by heartdisease

Gasket upside down blocking the coolant passages?

that is what it sounds like to me, or you did not fill the cooling system all the way and the heads are not being cooled, or somehow your water pump is not running at all.

dave mc

[dmeeu]

Yes, I used new head bolts. The book didn't recommend replacing the head bolts, but I'm in the habit of replacing them.

[dmeeu]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Yeah, the iron block predecessor blows head gaskets left and right. The aluminum copy of 1MZ only seeps coolant.

Problem after a service is usually related to that service. So my guess is head gasket sealing and heat bolt torque issues. Just these two for starters.

Did you purge all if not all air out of the cooling system? Check the radiator and/or reservoir. Do you see tiny bubbles coming out?Any leaks around the head gasket area, especially in the rear bank?

Did you blow out/vacuum out the head bolt holes? Wipe the gasket surfaces free of oil and coolant?

And I won't ask for oil pressure right now, but maybe others have some ideas too.

The coolant is good. When I removed the left head the second time, the coolant was in each hold, right up to the top of the head. I suctioned it out to keep it from spilling down the engine when I loosened the head. Not leaks at the head gasket. I vacuumed out/blew out all the holes in the head before reassembling each time because I cleaned the old gasket off with a scraper.

[dmeeu]

Originally Posted by davemac2

that is what it sounds like to me, or you did not fill the cooling system all the way and the heads are not being cooled, or somehow your water pump is not running at all.

dave mc

The cooling system was filled. When I removed the left head the second time, the fluid was right up to the gasket. The water pump is less than two years old, and I was not having a cooling problem before I started this, just a small aggravating leak. Also, the lifter noise? That can't be a coincicence, can it?

[dmeeu]

Originally Posted by heartdisease

Gasket upside down blocking the coolant passages?

Gaskets are marked left and right as well as the heads. They won't fit backwards. I removed the left head again just to be sure.

[Luckynumber5]

have you tried running it with no thermostat? As for the lifters clacking did you flush the oil system?

[davemac2]

No I doubt the lifter noise is a coincidence. Remove the thermostat as suggested and run it that way. Remove the top rad hose temporarily and check coolant flow at idle and then rev the engine to make sure the flow increases dramatically. Then top up the coolant again.

Are you sure you got the cam timing correct when you reinstalled the T belt and the camshafts? Did you reinstall the lifters and their shims in exactly the same places assuming you removed them?

Take some pics of your block and the gaskets if you take them off again.

dave mc

[Luckynumber5]

Oh yeah, one thing that will cause lifter tick is if you did not set the cam's scissor gear with a bolt to hold it open. The scissor gear is spring loaded and acts as a pre-tensioner to quiet down the cams. If you just pop the cams out without putting a bolt through the gear it will pop closed and the gears will no longer pre-mesh, makes quite a racket.

[JohnGD]

Check the timing marks and make sure the correct ones are lined up. It's hard for the water pump not to turn because the back of the belt drives it between the two cam pulleys. But besides timing issues check for proper coolant flow as others said.

[EA6BMECH]

Originally Posted by Luckynumber5

Oh yeah, one thing that will cause lifter tick is if you did not set the cam's scissor gear with a bolt to hold it open. The scissor gear is spring loaded and acts as a pre-tensioner to quiet down the cams. If you just pop the cams out without putting a bolt through the gear it will pop closed and the gears will no longer pre-mesh, makes quite a racket.

I have mine apart right now. Rear head to go. I'll have to keep that tid bit of info in mind installing the cams. Never would have thought of it. Now I see why the gears are split. Still seems odd this car is over heating.

[Luckynumber5]

If you didnt put the bolt in before taking the cams out they have sprung closed, you will need to twist the scissor gear back into alignment and then put a bolt in to keep it there. It is a pretty big PITA