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Old 06-24-2009, 02:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Power steering flush questions

I have a gen 3 and I am wanting to flush my power steering fluid out. I read the DIY, but thats for a 4 cyl and a gen 4. My tank s totally different than that. Also in reading the DIY, do I need to run Dex III or power steering fluid? Below are some pics of my tank. Maybe someone can clarify which line is which and what I need to disconnect and plug and which one I drain from. Thanks!!





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Old 06-24-2009, 02:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You have one rad fan driven by the p/s pump.

Two lower lines that point to engine are to supply fluid to pump then to device (rack or motor)

Higher lines, facing headlamp are return lines.

You can do same as the Gen4 flush by plugging one of the two supply lines that supply to pump, and tee the returns to the waste bucket.
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Old 06-24-2009, 02:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Also

Generic p/s fluid or Dexron will work.
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Old 06-24-2009, 04:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Basically, I can leave the engine side supply lines to feed the pump, and cap off the forward lines and route the 2 return lines to a bucket. Will this work? I think it will flush both the fan and pump at the same time faster. Also I bought some Valvoline fluid.
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by camry314 View Post
Basically, I can leave the engine side supply lines to feed the pump, and cap off the forward lines and route the 2 return lines to a bucket. Will this work? I think it will flush both the fan and pump at the same time faster. Also I bought some Valvoline fluid.
Yep. You can leave the 'low pressure' hoses (leading to the pump) connected to the reservoir and disconnect the return and stick them into a bucket. I found it easiest to run the engine for 10 secs at a time to drain the system; turning the wheel full lock to lock didn't get much out for me. Also, i reckon the most annoying part is actually getting those hoses of the reservoir.

May i suggest changing those clamps to 'normal' hose clamps used on the radiator hoses. The reinforced ones are such a pain in the azz if they reinforcing ring slips off. Sometimes they don't clamp enough, causing a leak; that's what happened on my return line.
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Old 06-25-2009, 08:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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As Jim suggested, but keep in mind that you need dynamically sealing clamps (spring loaded type) and not worm gear type.

The spring tension will adjust to the thermal and pressure contraction and expansion of the hose/nipple that is made of plastic and rubber.

Worm clamps will not allow that and cut into the hose, and allow crud to get in or fluid escape.
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Old 06-25-2009, 11:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Hajoca View Post
As Jim suggested, but keep in mind that you need dynamically sealing clamps (spring loaded type) and not worm gear type.

The spring tension will adjust to the thermal and pressure contraction and expansion of the hose/nipple that is made of plastic and rubber.
Lol, i'm actually suggesting that the OP should change to the 'worm gear' type hose clamp and ditch those dynamic ones. I guess my old dynamic clamps creeped from age and lost their tension. Although that's pretty good justification for keeping them. The one the OP has are alright, but the dynamic ones that have a reinforcing ring(another ring on top of it) are a PITA.
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Probably a dumb question but what about removing the fluid from the reservoir and refilling? Then drive a few days or weeks and doing it again. Maybe 3 or 4 times, like a drain and fill on an auto transmission. Don't have to worry about hoses at all.
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I guess you could do that. I think that this is a faster way of doing that. Plus it might just be cheaper to to do it with removing the hoses. I bought 4 bottles of PS fluid for a total of 1.5L like the DIY states, and it was only about 10 bucks. So not too bad I guess.
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Probably a dumb question but what about removing the fluid from the reservoir and refilling? Then drive a few days or weeks and doing it again. Maybe 3 or 4 times, like a drain and fill on an auto transmission. Don't have to worry about hoses at all.
IMO, it's not that effective. There's only about a few hundred mL's of fluid in the reservoir and the system is about 1L. So you'll end up mixing old with new, and contantly mix and drain both(old and new).
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Camry history:

1990 Camry CS 5spd - Now scrap metal
1994 Camry Executive A/T - Burnt to a crisp.
1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I kind of thought the same thing about multiple drain and fills on a tranny. What is it- 4 quarts out of about 10-12? (I don't really remember, those numbers may be way off.) Just thought it would be the principle without risking causing a leak. (I hate plastic. )
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Old 06-26-2009, 09:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well with the AT, it's you're only choice as there is still fluid in the torque converter. I doubt anyone will be willing to split the engine from the gearbox and remove torque converter (if possible with that small amount of working space) just to drain the TC properly. I hate plastic too xD

The only imperial i use is PSI and occasionally ft lbs xD I know my power steering system is about 1L or 4 quarts (gen 2 camry) and there's probably at most 1 quart in the reservoir
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1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
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