3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
yep thats a lil bastard. behind the tab, there should be a flat section on the bolt(pull the little rubber boot back if necessary) where you can either put a wrench on it or clamp the hell out of it with vise grips to keep it from spinning.
Are u doing the full struts or just cartridges? maybe just sawzall off the tab on the strut and then remove the stabilizer link and work on it externally.
Rusty:
While I was working on it, I put a finger (in the gap) right behind the tab and I felt the spin. The gap is very narrow so no room for the vice grip. As for what is covered by the rubber boot, I didn't know I could pinch on it. I noticed (although not 100% sure now) that it didn't turn when I turn the wrench on the nut (meaning the bolt is inside and turning, but the thing covered by the rubber-boot is stationary).
I'm by myself and no good friend near-by so the wheel is back on now !
Dave: If I cut the tab, then I have to remove the stab-link, but I tried the lower bolt (similar: hex in the middle +14mm wrench). No go: just as rusted. Worse yet: space is limited and I got to be more carefully next time. EVERYONE USE GOGGLE. The impact-wrench socket flew from back to front wheel !
If it makes you feelo any better, I had to cut 2 off my car, 1 off my friends a couple months ago, 2 off another friends last year. It's actually expected to happen.
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Employed at Toyota in Parts, again.
My riced out crapmobile Camry: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/228043...y-xle-sedan-4d '96 Camry: 2MZ Supercharged.....
'95 Corolla AE101: JDM Tails/Trunk Panel/Grill/Headlights with BiXenon Projectors. JDM Lighted Ignition Keyring and Cabin Air Filter
5 Lug Corolla WHAT?
Thanks all. Rusty, Dave, ASG. I'll go buy a cutting disk (never see one with a small center-bore, always about 1"), an adapter for my drill (never saw an adapter before either), and a 4" stabilizer-link. Then jack up the car and try to pinch the rubber-boot-part. If still not working, then I cut the bolt (cutting-disk placed right behind the tab I guess).
I would probably just get fresh hacksaw blades and cut that bolt off, then drill it out, but I'd definitely go grinder or something if it's over a 12 millimeter bolt, what size is that?
Last edited by toysarefun; 06-24-2009 at 11:32 PM.
also had to cut it off at the bracket since I was replacing the whole assambly. Once I cut the bracket was able to get a pair of plyers behind and hold it.
also had to cut it off at the bracket since I was replacing the whole assambly. Once I cut the bracket was able to get a pair of plyers behind and hold it.
^ thats a good idea.
another suggestion is to take a grinder and make a slot on the bolt for a large screw driver (there are also flat-head screw driver sockets for better leverage). then try to hold the bolt and spin the nut again.
if you have a chance to redo a stuck endlink nut, i would recommend you to spray wd-40, then use the 14mm wrench and #5 hex key to loose it, to a point where it is almost stuck, don't force it, rock it back and forth until it is easy to loose again, and repeat this until it comes off, it might take you 5 or 10 minutes, but better than having a strip or round nut, unless if you are just going to discard teh endlink and buy a new one.
So I ended up cutting and buying a new stabilizer bar ($50 just for one).
Took so long to install the strut because the strut steel turns when you turn the big bolt on top (we didn't screw in far enough before put on the car).
So we had to pinch the strut and to take out the bolt, then add some washer, then put the bolt back. The problem was the bolt has a hard-plastic ring to prevent it to be unscrewed. After added some WD40, it drips down and make the thing slippery.
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