3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Last year I had to re-charge my refrigerant. This year it has been running pretty good, but I noticed that it didn't seem ice cold when I ran the system. I decided to check the gauge on the filter/dryer, and noticed that around the outer rim small bubbles were slowly coming out.
Is replacing the filter/dryer a DIY job? If so what would I need? Would I just order a new part, blowing the charge of refrigerant, and then just recharge it, or would I need to vacuum it out? Or should I recharge using some the high mileage stuff with "Leak lock"?
A bit of background I did one year of HVAC back in 1991 at that time it was R12. I don't have any gauges, vacuum pumps or the like.
It illegal to blow the R-12 to the air. What is the temp coming out of the registers?(one near the evaporator.....)
I recommend recovering the refrigerent(oil too, (take to shop...)
You need to put the AC under a vacuum to remove all the moisture Or should I recharge using some the high mileage stuff with "Leak lock"? no!!!!!! DO NOT USE THE STOP LEAKS, IT WILL Gum up tools,ECT try dye instead...
You need a gauge too...
I would recommend using a dye.... to make sure there are no more leaks..
It would cheaper to use R-134a than R-12, and since R-12 is sold only to people with EPA cert... 609....
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ECT,EGR,TPS,MAF,CMP,CKP,02,
Last edited by Mr.Nutcase; 06-27-2009 at 09:20 PM.
It illegal to blow the R-12 to the air. What is the temp coming out of the registers?(one near the evaporator.....
Mine is a 2000 camry. It is running R134a. I was saying that I had experience on R-12. By the way, in 1991 it was legal to blow that in the air.
I don't have a good thermostat here to get an accurate reading. It still feels cold and does its job, but I see bubbles in the window, and small bubbles in the oil that is around the window on the filter dryer.
I recommend recovering the refrigerent(oil too, (take to shop...)
You need to put the AC under a vacuum to remove all the moisture Or should I recharge using some the high mileage stuff with "Leak lock"? no!!!!!! DO NOT USE THE STOP LEAKS, IT WILL Gum up tools,ECT try dye instead...
You need a gauge too...
I would recommend using a dye.... to make sure there are no more leaks..
It would cheaper to use R-134a than R-12, and since R-12 is sold only to people with EPA cert... 609....
Ok thanks. One other thought here. Back in 1991 when I did this, we had some sort of refrigeration epoxy. Since I can visibly see this slow leak around the window on the filter dryer, do you think I can go that route? (IF I find this epoxy)
Mine is a 2000 camry. It is running R134a. I was saying that I had experience on R-12. By the way, in 1991 it was legal to blow that in the air.
I don't have a good thermostat here to get an accurate reading. It still feels cold and does its job, but I see bubbles in the window, and small bubbles in the oil that is around the window on the filter dryer.
1994 was year around were you have to recover the refrigent cording to SAE codes,
you'll need to evacuate the system PROPERLY by recovering the r-12. replace the dryer. hold a vacuum on the system for at least an hour and then recharge with the proper refrigerant and oil. if you can't find r-12 you will need to change out the compressor to handle the higher pressures that 134a runs at or the system will not cool effectively. and you'll need a decent set of guages and it is extremely unsafe to be running blind in a system with pumping pressures that can hover around 300-400psi...
if you can't do it right, just have a reputable a/c shop do it, then you can be sure it was done right...
The leak is proably an o-ring gone bad, although I'm surprized that it happened so quicky being you have a 2000 (R134a)(unless there's a defective tube/connection). I would first check/tighten the connections at the Filter/Dryer (F/D), if that stops the leak then just re-charge with kit at parts store since the system has not completely leaked down and exposed to air/humidity. For such a small leak over a short time I doubt you need to add oil. If the connection can't be tightened then you'll have to disconnect the F/D, which means you'll need to replace it and the oil it holds. Once off replace the o-rings at the tube connections then replace the F/D with a new unit, pull vacuum and recharge. A vacuum pump is about $300 and you also should get gauges so you might as well take it to a shop to do all the work. Labor should not be too bad given the ease with which this can be done. As well it is illegal to vent R134a, although I know every shade tree does it. The shop recovered 134 is not wasted and can be put back into your system so it will reduce the cost to re-charge.
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1995 Camry Wagon LE. 2.2 4cyl, 5S-FE, Auto, 187K
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Leak in AC system Filter dryer
Linear Mode
