3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 1995 Camry LE wagon with a 5SFE engine. It has about 85,000 miles on it. The car has always started up and ran flawlessly. I started the car and had driven about 3 miles when it hesitated once and died. I have not been able to get it started since. The motor cranks but will not start. I checked the oil for water and it looks fine. The plugs look good and the fuses that have visible viewing check points look good. I get NO LIghts on the dash when I turn the key except the door light. I checked for spark with a plug on the frame and there was spark. Can anyone give me some suggestions as to where to go next? Timing Belt?? Weak coil?? Any suggestions will be appreciated. I need to get the car running to take it to emmissions testing. Thanks.
Last edited by Atl-Packerbacker; 07-01-2009 at 10:21 AM.
No lights on the dash sounds like an electrical issue to me. You should at least get some lights for a lamp test shouldn't you? If you are getting spark, I would think the T belt is ok, no? Sounds like maybe a bad fuel pump. Check the fuel pressure at the rail. Do you smell fuel at all after cranking? Did you check the fuses under the hood as well as under the dash?
Silly me I was only checking fuses under hood. I found 1 blown fuse under dash and now have dash board warning lights on. Check engine, oil etc. Car still does not start. I am going to check spark 1 more time and then go to fuel. Would it be possible for a car to be running perfectly one second and then nothing the next moment from fuel with no type of warning signs?
There is a easy and no-tool-needed way to temporarily add alternative source of fuel to engine. You can put a gasoline soaked rag inside the air filter box under the paper filter. The gasoline will be sucked into engine and burn when you crank the engine.
Not sure if it is safe but I did it a few years ago and didn't burn my car. Try it at your own risk.
Silly me I was only checking fuses under hood. I found 1 blown fuse under dash and now have dash board warning lights on. Check engine, oil etc. Car still does not start. I am going to check spark 1 more time and then go to fuel. Would it be possible for a car to be running perfectly one second and then nothing the next moment from fuel with no type of warning signs?
Tank is full to the brim. I loosened the fuel filter top bolt and when I cranked, gas came out of there so I am assuming all is good to that point. When I do the spark check I am using a spark plug on the #1 wire. I get what seems to me to be a weak orange spark. Should I be seeing a stronger blue spark? Another website and a friend at work both are thinking timing belt. Possible? Is there any easy way of checking to see if the belt has broke?
^ Take off the distributor cap and crank the engine. If the rotor spins, the timing belt is fine. If the rotor doesn't spin, the timing belt is broken.
__________________ All of the lag, none of the boost.
VTEC It's like waiting for really bad sex.
Thanks for the info. I did the rotor check and it spins so I guess it is not the timing belt. That's a good thing! I hope! I have checked the rotor, cap and plugs and none of them look terrible but none look all that good either. I guess that I will buy new tune up parts and hope. I just hate to spend the money and still not have it running. Is it possible for a car to be running smoothly and just suddenly quit from a combination of worn tune up parts or wouldn't it start to run rough for a while first?
The battery is cranking fast, and the belt is new. How do I check voltage to the injectors? That will be my next research item. Thanks for the tips. Bob
Thanks for the info. I did the rotor check and it spins so I guess it is not the timing belt. That's a good thing! I hope! I have checked the rotor, cap and plugs and none of them look terrible but none look all that good either. I guess that I will buy new tune up parts and hope. I just hate to spend the money and still not have it running. Is it possible for a car to be running smoothly and just suddenly quit from a combination of worn tune up parts or wouldn't it start to run rough for a while first?
85,000 miles is time to do the timing belt anyhow. It could still be the belt if it lost teeth or jumped teeth. It can do this under smooth running conditions, driving at a constant speed, or just sitting there idling.
Also, once my 95 died - drove to work with no problem, went out at lunch and would not start. After checking the timing, fuel pressure etc. and spark (I had a weak spark too) it ended up being a part in the distributor. I just changed the whole distributor but your problem might only be the coil. Search coil problems in the forum.
__________________
85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
Things went from bad to worse today. I bought new tune up parts, cap rotor plugs and installed them. I tried to start the car and heard clicking sound. I figured it was the starter so I pulled the starter and had it checked. It was okay so I reinstalled it. Now I get absolutely nothing. When I turn the key the dash lights light up but the car is completely dead. I tried a different battery but everything is still dead. I don't know whether I have a ground problem or if I may have knocked some type of connection loose. I don't see anything in the general area. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I should look or what else it could be. I am confused because the starter is a pretty simple procedure and should not have caused me more grief. Even after I get the electric back the car may not start because I still haven't figured out the initial problem.
It sounds like you have a weak battery or a bad electrical connection at the battery. Clean up both the battery posts and the cable terminal ends. They should be shinny clean. Then reinstall and try to start the car. Are you should the second battery you installed is good and strong? Have you tried jump starting the car to see if the starter turns that way?
I think you naswered your own question earlier. "I get what seems to me to be a weak orange spark. Should I be seeing a stronger blue spark?" Yes, the spark should be a bright blue color. With that in mind, I would check the coil inside the distributor for being in spec. They can be a trouble area on the first 3 generation Camrys. To check it you will need to remove it from the inside of the distributor. You will need the specs from any manual and a digital volt/ohmenter to do this. While the coil is out, visually inspect it for cracks or any signs of arcing. They have a tendancy to develope cracks and short themselves to ground on any metal inside the distributor.
Did you ever check for any engine trouble codes? Your car is OBD1. That means you can check for codes with a piece of wire or a paper clip. Any manual will have this simple procedure and the readouts, if any codes are present.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 07-07-2009 at 01:47 PM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
