3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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So i got a p0401 EGR fault. my mom's car is 96 LE 4banger. 110k miles and doesn't get driven much.
I did the search on this and it seems 80% of the problems are solved by replacement of the EGR valve or something with the VSV.
I wanted to pulled the EGR valve off and see if i can clean it but. its in a little hard to reach area. I saw the DIY saying going from under and thats not really an option. What i did see was if i remove the intake and take off the dizzy i have complete access to the lower nut on the EGR pipe. But last time i pulled the dizzy off it took me hours to get the engine running again. EVen when i marked it. If i pull the dizzy i need a new gasket i assume. Other then that do you know of any other ways to get at this pipe.
I read in the FSM that if i apply vac into the EGR port the car should die out. which is normal function right?
I'm trying to come up with some repair sets that are mainly cheap. Assuming the EGR is bad, is going to cost me $150 for the EGR, EGR gasket and a dizzy gasket. And more or less a EGR pipe as well because it looks rusted up to hell. that pipe is most likely another $100.
Testing the EGR valve would be about $50 for a vac gauge. but if that clears then what?
I looked at all the vac lines and everything looks to be good. What else can i do now?
first of all you can barrow vac from auto zone and as for egr only thing you have to do is remove the intake air tube (long that gose from tb to air filter )which make it easier to open the top nut (big nut on the pipe..somebody mention that it 15/16'' so try that )on the egr and open small nut on the back(12mm) and wiggle it out... if that it is your first time taking it out then buy gasket for egr before hand cost about 2 bucks.... clean it out with carbon cleaner or seafoam deep creep (little expensive ) do this then either take the negative terminal out or efi fuse for 30 sec which clear the code wait if it came back then its more likely vsv valve (cost 60-100 bucks depending where you buy ) --->egr modulator ( 54.99+tax from auto zone )-----> egr valve (156.99+tax also from auto zone ) go with this order for changing
hope that help
since your is 96 i have pics for location of the vsv valve so let me know if you need them
FYI: it is really pain take it out but feasible
Last edited by jakie018; 07-19-2009 at 11:50 PM.
Reason: add pics
On my 1995 Camry 4 cyl, I took the distributor out and I had room to remove the nut. I was replacing the leaking O ring on the distributor and was going to clean the EGR valve anyway. I think this is easier to reach the nut. But the car will need the timing set to 0 deg TDC before starting. And the car's timing will need to be checked after reinstalling the distributor with a timing light. But If you can reach the nut now, great. The nut took a 15/16" open end and the two other nuts were 12 mm. Soak all the nuts with PB Blaster or equal for some time. I removed the pipe were it connects to the engine and not to the EGR valve. Also replace the EGR gasket, you can find it at Auto Zone, Advance Auto or etc. I cleaned (soaked) the EGR valve with Seafoam. I ran a piece of wire up the tube to check for built up carbon. I did not remove the EGR pipe from the EGR valve. My small rubber vacuum hose between the EGR vacuum modulator valve and the EGR valve was plug with carbon/goop. I soaked the hose with Seafoam and worked the carbon out with a piece of wire. Check that hose also. I had the EGR vlave move by putting a small hose on the vacuum port and sucking on it, I saw it move up and down. My opening for the EGR valve in the intake manifold was also fill with carbon/goop. Check that opening with a mirror as it is behind on intake manifold. You can look inside the throttle body by moving the throttle plate with a flashlight. Might be a good idea to clean the throttle body if you have the air cleaner hose off with throttle body cleaner. Hope this helps!
jakie, so that VSV is to the left of the green connectoer?
oldcar95, with the intake tube off i can see it but that connector end on the dizzy blocks me from leverage, hence why i suggested removal of the dizzy itself. I know removal of that dizzy will take me forever to get it back running again. i had to replace the ignitor on my dad's 94 and it took me like 3 hours to get it to start up. I bought a timing light from that job already. And i just ordered a vac hand pump/gauge.
i took off the 2 12mm bolts fine and i was able to get space between the EGR and the manifold. I need to pick up a 24mm now, my largest was a 22mm.
for that lower pipe, is that just thread on bolt? I'll just test it with the vac gauge, soak it in seafoam for 24 hours and reinstall. if light still goes on i'll just buy a new EGR valve at that time.
what tests can i do with the VSV to rule that out? And are there any other components that can be the cause for this p0401
4. If the VSV fails this test replace it. Any doubts perform the following test.
5. Remove the VSV.
6. Check for an open circuit. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance (ohms) between the two terminals of the valve. The resistance (cold) should be 33-39 ohms. If the resistance is not within specifications, replace the VSV. http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...52801ccbb8.jpg
Check for a short circuit within the valve. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is no continuity between the terminals and the VSV body. If there is continuity, replace the VSV.
ok so i had time some time to play with the car, i picked up a 24mm wrench and finally removed it. It was cramped with a very large 24mm wrench. I got it of. the EGR port were the gasket goes is not completely covered in build-up. It was making its way.
Oh before i removed it, my vac pump came in. I pumped up the EGR valve and the car choked like it was suppose to. So i guess it was ok.
I got the gasket and a bottle of seafoam, total was like $12-13. I'm soaking the EGR with seafoam right now. I guess the method of attack now is to reinstall and clear to fault to see if it comes back.
If it does then it might be time to look at the VSV. or the modulator.
bowlofturtle, you dont need them to reset the code....you can just take the neg.terminal out on the bettery for about 30sec to a min or efi from the fuse under hood for about a min or so....should do it
just pulling the EFI fuse for a while should clear it?
I dont need the CEL to go away, i need it to be cleared from the ECU. Since i live in a emissions testing state. Plus i want to see if the fault returns.
that yes they will not clear it of course but you need to go to the neighbor-hood-corner-machnic if you know wht i mean they will do it for abt 50 bucks i would say....
have you change the vsv or atleast check if it is up to oem standard?
how long before you have to get the emission test? since i am from the same state when did you had your last emission test ?
if you still havent change the VSV it is more likle to be that
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