3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
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Well, after isolating an annoying noise at idle, I've managed to narrow down the source of the noise to behind the timing belt cover. I'm assuming it's the timing belt tensioner bearing making noise since it's coming from the bottom of the engine. The noise has also gotten progresively worst over the last couple of weeks. The car is 1MZ-FE with 211,000 miles. The timing belt was changed almost 20,000 miles ago so I really don't want to have to resort to a timing belt change just to change the tensioner. Along with the timing belt and standard stuff associated with it, I changed the water pump, accessory belts and spark plugs I had in mind to remove the lower timing belt cover and grease up the bearing. Now, the instruction I have require me to remove a whole lot of parts before I can reach the #2 timing belt cover. Does anyone know a simple way that I can grease the bearing without spending an hour under the car and with minimal part removal? Do I REALLY have to buy new timing belt cover seals, since I bought some new ones when I replaced the timing belt?
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I had in mind to remove the lower timing belt cover and grease up the bearing.
I think the bearings on the tensioners are sealed.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
no, you don't have to get new timing belt cover seals...most people never change them- they just clean then and then they do the job just fine.
as for reaching the bearing without removing the cover and associated parts to get to it- I don't think there is a way at all...
Great, I was worried about the seal, but what I meant was the instructions I got ahold of told me to remove the alternator belt along with the timing belt cover #1, is that absolutelly necessary? Does timing belt cover #1 retain the second one in some way that would prevent me from removing just the second one? I just want to get to the tensioner by removing as little parts as possible... And if 96 paseo is right, i suppose it would be useless to follow my approach since it's a sealed unit, cause I was told by the dealer that I could access it... Any opinions?
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
For reference, here is a video of what it sounds like. I apologize for the crumby quality of audio and video... If you are thinking it's the accessory belt that are problematic. They are OEM belts and I checked them and torqued everything to specs with no luck: http://s697.photobucket.com/albums/v...t=MOV00001.flv
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
erg...I don't remember...I've done about 3 timing belts on these cars now, but I don't remember exactly which timing belt cover overlaps which one...you should be able to tell on the manual...does it say to remover 1 first or 2? if it's 1 first, then it's because it overlaps part of 2 and the bolt goes through the same hole and it's covered or something like htat if I remember correctly.
but as 96paseo said too though- what exactly do you want to grease? the tensioner doesn't have a bearing right on it since it's a small hydraulic strut basically. are you talking about the bearings on the tensioner pulley? if you are, then you should remember that ALL the pulleys used are sealed
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
and I took a look/hear of your video...sounds like a bearing gone bad. Did you replace all the pulleys or did you reuse any?
I think you're going to have to do your timing belt all over again and replace the bad pulley (you really may as well replace them all at the same time then), as there is no way to regrease the sealed pulleys
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HaHa
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"Life is a deep sleep, of which love is the dream..." Ripped...and the girls are loving it.
The Following User Says Thank You to Eye8Pussies For This Useful Post:
and I took a look/hear of your video...sounds like a bearing gone bad. Did you replace all the pulleys or did you reuse any?
I think you're going to have to do your timing belt all over again and replace the bad pulley (you really may as well replace them all at the same time then), as there is no way to regrease the sealed pulleys
Like he said, you'll have to take off both covers, and check all pulleys with the belt off. You should be able to feel which one is bad.
Also, I didn't listen to your audio as my connection is slow. One other thing to check is the washer on the crankshaft between the timing belt sprocket and the timing belt cover. It has to be on the right way and if the crank pulley isn't seated all the way on the crank shaft, the washer could have some play and strike the inside of the timing belt cover making an audibale squeal.
Check the crank pulley bolt and make sure it isn't loose. If its loose and you run for a while, the key in the crank shaft will hammer into the slot on the timing belt sprocket and give the sprocket play on the crank shaft. The engine will develop a rattling sound during deceleration and at idle as the problem gets worse.
One more thing, if the tensioner isn't seated properly the timing belt might not be as tight as it needs to be. The water pump pulley is driven by the smooth side of the timing belt and if the tensioner is loose, the belt may slip and squeal too.
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85 LE 2SE 500K km - died trying to push a semi off the road
95 LE 5SFE 530K km, 530K km changed engine, 549K km second engine died, now 554K Km running with a 98 5SFE block and head
01 XLE V6 310K km
and I took a look/hear of your video...sounds like a bearing gone bad. Did you replace all the pulleys or did you reuse any?
I think you're going to have to do your timing belt all over again and replace the bad pulley (you really may as well replace them all at the same time then), as there is no way to regrease the sealed pulleys
Arghhh That is not a pretty solution but I guess it needs to be done... I'll give a shot at 500kcam's potentials before resorting to a full belt change... An interesting development is that I sprayed all the accesory belt pulleys with some white lithium grease before leaving the car over night and the noise level seems to have dropped... I really do want to stress the fact that as soon as the engine exits idle-at around 850 rpm- the noise completely disappears...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 500KCamry
One other thing to check is the washer on the crankshaft between the timing belt sprocket and the timing belt cover. It has to be on the right way and if the crank pulley isn't seated all the way on the crank shaft, the washer could have some play and strike the inside of the timing belt cover making an audibale squeal.
Check the crank pulley bolt and make sure it isn't loose. If its loose and you run for a while, the key in the crank shaft will hammer into the slot on the timing belt sprocket and give the sprocket play on the crank shaft. The engine will develop a rattling sound during deceleration and at idle as the problem gets worse.
One more thing, if the tensioner isn't seated properly the timing belt might not be as tight as it needs to be. The water pump pulley is driven by the smooth side of the timing belt and if the tensioner is loose, the belt may slip and squeal too.
Solution #1 and #3 sound like they could be plausible as well, but #2 not so much 'cause I don't hear it when any noise when I decelerate. The noise only appears when RPM drops below 850 RPM. I'll try spraying whit lithium grease a bit more carefully on the pulleys this evening and if the noise doesn't drop, Ill take a crack at it this weekend, cause it now seems longer than I expected!!
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
from the video, I thought that I heard a grinding (bearing) noise as well? or maybe that was some other noise bouncing around in the engine bay?
That's just noise bouncing around, the car is sitting in the garage as well, I put it there to try and amplify the noise for the camera... I'll take a better video when I get home from work today. I'll try spraying lithium grease more carefully on the bottom accessory pulleys since that helped. If I used some synthetic grease and greased up the screws, good or bad idea?
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I know this is one hell of a thread revival but I just wanna clarify the solution to this thread now that the problem has been fixed. I realized that I should have done this when I solved the problem back in August
For futur reference, the problem was exactly as I suspected. The culprit was the timing belt tensioner bearing. When I removed it from the engine, the outside was wobbling ever so slightly, whereas the new one was rock solid. I replaced the tensioner, the tensioner bearing, the idler bearing and, obviously, the timing belt. And the answer to my original question was that timing belt cover #1 has to be removed in order to reach the second one Thanks for the help guys
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
I know this is one hell of a thread revival but I just wanna clarify the solution to this thread now that the problem has been fixed. I realized that I should have done this when I solved the problem back in August
For futur reference, the problem was exactly as I suspected. The culprit was the timing belt tensioner bearing. When I removed it from the engine, the outside was wobbling ever so slightly, whereas the new one was rock solid. I replaced the tensioner, the tensioner bearing, the idler bearing and, obviously, the timing belt. And the answer to my original question was that timing belt cover #1 has to be removed in order to reach the second one Thanks for the help guys
Good to see you got it fixed. That was a while ago wasn't it?
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
The Following User Says Thank You to 96paseo For This Useful Post:
Good to see you got it fixed. That was a while ago wasn't it?
Yup, it was fixed back in August I was looking thru my storage the other night and found the old parts and realized that I forgot to update what the solution to the problem turned out to be
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1995 Toyota Camry V6 LE-6M1 250K Miles, Fun Car
1997 Acura RL-Gone
2007 Acura RL SH-AWD, Technology Package, Opulent Blue Pearl- Fun Car/Daily Driver
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New hinges on the way.
Thanks for the help guys 
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