3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Okay, here in Ohio there are areas that require a car get a vehicle emission test every two years or when retitling a car.
My 1993 that I just got back on the road had to be retitled and therefore required the test. It failed.
I failed the "NO" part of the test - must not exceed 821 PPM and my car was 1,594 PPM. I have no idea what "NO" is, but I did a search and came across a Jeep forum with same subject in a thread.
The guy with the failed "NO" was told by Autozone it was a 02 sensor (what is that?). However, when he replaced it the car still failed. Someone responding said AZ had it wrong and it was the CAT.
I Googled CATS and found prices ranging from $95 to $265. The higher priced ones don't look like the one on my car. Is there a way to determine which CAT to buy? I was just going to measure from end to end.
They give you a list of "licensed" repair locations, but it stinks of rip-off. You are able to DIY and bring in receipts and that is the route I plan to take.
Have your checked for codes? Your car is OBD1 so that means you can read the codes with a piece of wire or a paper clip and the specs from any manual. The procedure will be in any manual. I suggest you do that first. A code or codes may point you in the right direction. Don't just throw parts and money at the car.
Have your checked for codes? Your car is OBD1 so that means you can read the codes with a piece of wire or a paper clip and the specs from any manual. The procedure will be in any manual. I suggest you do that first. A code or codes may point you in the right direction. Don't just throw parts and money at the car.
Mike
I'll do that, thanks Mike.
I read in Haynes how to go about doing the test. It says that there are two locations where it can be done, one under the dash and one in the engine compartment.
It talks about stored information that remains after repair and the need to clear it. Do you think it would be a good idea to pull the EFI fuse to clear the memory? I did just put a new battery in a few weeks ago, so I guess that provided the same results.
I just read that there are three oxygen sensors on a v6 - two before the CAT and one after. Says in Haynes you have to remove front seat to access the aft sensor. - sort of like getting to the fuel pump.
Did you do a tune up before going? That reading seems pretty high. Is your CEL on? I didn't see anything in your first post regarding failing for the CEL so i'll assume its just the emissions level. NO or NOx is your nitrogen oxides measurement. HC, CO and CO2 are usually measured as well. You can reduce the NOx reading by retarding the ignition timing. I've seen private inspection shops do this to get older cars to pass. I would first do a tune up if you haven't done so already. Having a less efficient spark can affect combustion and cause the numbers to rise. Distributor engines are more prone to this because the contacts in the cap and rotor wear out and oxidize.
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1996 Paseo 5E-FE 269,xxx miles - Gotta fix that sagging DS door. New hinges on the way.
1993 Camry LE 5S-FE 249,xxx miles - New water pump, TB etc etc
1989 Camry-Gone but not forgotten. Car has become a birthday gift for my cousin.
1997 Mazda B2300 213,xxx miles - New flasher relay installed.
Did you do a tune up before going? That reading seems pretty high. Is your CEL on? I didn't see anything in your first post regarding failing for the CEL so i'll assume its just the emissions level. NO or NOx is your nitrogen oxides measurement. HC, CO and CO2 are usually measured as well.
No, the CEL is not on. The car passed all other aspects of the test without problem. The car was tuned up before it sat for three years, so wear wouldn't be an issue. I'm not saying it doesn't need a tune-up, but it wouldn't be due to part wear.
I talked to the mechanic that has a garage behind where I work. He knew exactly why it failed before I could tell him. Another guy at work has a 93 and went through the same thing.
Anyway, since it is a 93, the test is done through the exhaust pipe and leaks in the pipe will cause it to fail. I have a bolt missing where the muffler connects to the pipe on the section closest to the gas tank and my flex pipe is going (another common problem).
I looked at the flex pipe and I don't see a way to fix that with a cut and weld type fix (ok for 4 cyl, but I don't see how it would be done on the flex pipe for a 6 cyl.
He also mentioned that the CAT may or may not need to be replaced. He noted that the CAT might have to be upgraded to pass becuase Ohio is making the test difficult for older cars to pass in an effort to get them off the road.
I'll check the codes before going any further. If I change the flex pipe and fix the muffler connection, I may just leave it at that. If it fails, I just get a waiver because in good faith I tried to fix the problem by investing in new parts.
Does anyone know where I can check the codes under the hood (the box where I would use the wire or paper clip)? I checked under the dash, didn't see it and I am no longer flexible enough to spend time looking for it.
If I change the flex pipe and fix the muffler connection, I may just leave it at that. If it fails, I just get a waiver because in good faith I tried to fix the problem by investing in new parts.
ive never heard of anyone getting a waiver just by attempting to fix the problem. are you sure these waivers exsist?
I know that you don't have to fully pass the second time. As long as you make like a 30%(don't remember the exact number) improvement they can pass you.
I know a guy that knew every time he'd fail. So before he went in he's take off anything he could that would help with environmental stuff, Fail. Then go back the next day after he put all the parts back in. They'd pass him because it got better.
^ huh. never heard of that before. live and learn.
It's in a pamphlet they give you when it fails. It's basically where you bring in receipts showing that you attempted to make repair. However, I think the cycle starts over again two years later when the next inspection is scheduled.
In Ontario (Canada) you are allowed one conditional pass, meaning owner spends $$$ to supposedly/attempt improve the emissions and then a retest in two years. I cannot think of a number limit of conditional passes you can get, but 2 seems to stick in my mind.
Owner can sell the car, but until it achieves a full pass, new owner cannot get license plates to drive on the road.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
Have you tried a bottle of rubbing alcohol in the gas tank, clean oil and air filter.
Nope, haven't done anything yet. I have to fix the broken bolt where the muffler connects to the forward pipe. Air filter isn't a bad idea -regardless, it probably needs it. The oil was changed about a week before test.
What is the rubbing alcohol suppose to do? I was going to pour in some Seafoam.
Edit, being right by Cincinnati, are you required to get the test?
Took the car back for retesting. When I went the first time the nox reading was 1,594 PPM (allowed high limit 821 PPM)
After installing a new flex pipe, installing a new gasket and tightening down where the exhaust pipe connects to the muffler, running a can of Sea Foam through with a tank of gas, and cleaning the throttle, today's score was 324 PPM. The car is now officially roadworthy.
I had quotes for repair of $550 to $1300 to get it to pass the test. Doing it myself and not getting all of the "must have done" repairs I was told I needed, I spent about $180.
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New hinges on the way.
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