Blown Front Axle's?

[frojoe]

My 93 camry with 91,000 miles failed inspection today because of "blown front left and right axles" The car has exhibited no symptoms of anything being wrong. The quote is $300 p&l per axle. My questions are:

1)What exactly does this most likely mean, what part would "blow"?

2)Does the whole axle actually need to be replaced, or more likely only a certain part?

3)Is this normal wear and tear with the car's age and mileage?

4)With after market axles half the price, is oem worth it, and whats the level of difficulty on replacing them myself?

Thanks for any help you can provide, as I'm a poor(cheap) college student, and I've never had problems with this car before.

[flyeri]

They are probably refering to the cv joint boots. It is just as easy to replace the entire axel assemblys, left half shaft, intermediate and half shaft for the right. $300 per side is a little steep in my opinion but I am basing that on my experience with the '95 4cyl. I don't see any advantage to buying them from Toyota either.

[frojoe]

Originally Posted by flyeri

They are probably refering to the cv joint boots. It is just as easy to replace the entire axel assemblys, left half shaft, intermediate and half shaft for the right. $300 per side is a little steep in my opinion but I am basing that on my experience with the '95 4cyl. I don't see any advantage to buying them from Toyota either.

Thanks for the quick reply, is it then possible to just replace the cv boots, or once they are gone will the loss of lubrication destroy the joints? Would replacing only the boots or joints be significantly cheaper as I would think? Thanks,

-Joe-

[cruisn76]

how long has the boot been ripped?

If it has been recent, then just replacing the boot is much more economical. Since most the lube is still stuck inside, you can repair and drive as if nothing happened.

[Strum]

If it is the boot and there is time to replace it, I would do so before damamge is done. I replaced the axle on the passenger side on my 6 cyl (I was actually the assistant, while someone that knew what they were doing did most of the work).

Personally I would avoid doing it myself, but I know little about cars. I will say that it is easily the dirtiest job I've done or assisted on a car.

[frojoe]

Originally Posted by cruisn76

how long has the boot been ripped?

If it has been recent, then just replacing the boot is much more economical. Since most the lube is still stuck inside, you can repair and drive as if nothing happened.

Don't know, but I will check the condition tomorrow. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I check the joints and there is still grease, and the grease has no grit in it, then I could replace only the boot? I wouldn't be surprised if the dealership recommends the axle replacement even if its only the boot.

[DxElite]

Originally Posted by frojoe

Don't know, but I will check the condition tomorrow. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I check the joints and there is still grease, and the grease has no grit in it, then I could replace only the boot? I wouldn't be surprised if the dealership recommends the axle replacement even if its only the boot.

The boots are like a cone shaped accordion, so you'll want to spread it and look in between each fold for cracks/tears. And an easy sign of how long it's been busted is by how much grease has been flung all around.My brother's Accord had busted boots and we didn't find out until there was a good coating of grease all around the wheel arch.

We tried looking for quick boot kit but they only had special orders and we had no time to wait. So we tried to replace it with regular boots and took out the axles and tried to replace just the boots, but it proved more difficult than we expected when all the rollers and joint parts fell out when we pulled the boot off, didn't think it'd just drop. We didn't have the luxury of time so we just opted for aftermarket refurbished axles. After core exchange of the old axles, the final cost wasn't too bad.

If you can, get Quick Boot Kits to use, comes with everything you need. Quick boots are boots that are cut into 2 pieces, so you just put the 2 halves together around the joint and it gets chemically welded together. So you probably won't have to take out the axle and just take the wheel off to get good access to the boots. You just have to cut off the old boot and clean it a bit and put on the quick boots. But there are 2 types of quick boots, make sure you get one that gets CHEMICALLY welded, not the one thats clipped together. And if you can't find a quick boot kit that uses chemical weld, then...

...replacing the joint boots isn't an easy job. You have to remove the drive axle to replace the boots. There's more work in keeping the joints aligned when you take them off and put them back on. There's also 2 boots on each side of the shaft for each joint. And the boots are clamped on with a crimp so it's not as simple as ball joint boots.

Basically take a good look at how it's done and what you'll need, and whether or not you think you're capable of doing it yourself.
If you want to do it yourself go for the Quick Boot Kits and if you can't get those then, go with replacing the entire drive axles, it'll be easier, quicker, and cleaner than regular boot replacement.

[flyeri]

You have to remove the drive axle to replace the boots. There's more work in keeping the joints aligned when you take them off and put them back on. There's also 2 boots on each side of the shaft for each joint. And the boots are clamped on with a crimp so it's not as simple as ball joint boots.

That's why simply replacing complete axles is the easiest and likely the best fix. You get new axles, joints that you know are in good condition, and new boots. Again I would recommend changing the right half and intermediate shaft as one unit. the cost of parts on mine was identical and the labor was less than replacing just the half shaft. May be different on yours.

[DxElite]

Originally Posted by flyeri

That's why simply replacing complete axles is the easiest and likely the best fix. You get new axles, joints that you know are in good condition, and new boots. Again I would recommend changing the right half and intermediate shaft as one unit. the cost of parts on mine was identical and the labor was less than replacing just the half shaft. May be different on yours.

I agree, replacing the entire axles would be the best option.
But since frojoe is looking for the lowest cost repair option, quick boot kits will be the cheapest and the easiest to do it himself. Since he said he didn't have "symptoms of anything being wrong," quick boots would be good enough.

[cruisn76]

Originally Posted by frojoe

Don't know, but I will check the condition tomorrow. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I check the joints and there is still grease, and the grease has no grit in it, then I could replace only the boot? I wouldn't be surprised if the dealership recommends the axle replacement even if its only the boot.

As long as your axles are not ticking or making sounds then you are in the clear. But if they are then I suggest getting the whole axle done.

Personally I have gone through 2 boots on each side in the past year due to lowering the car and hitting misc crap that just so happens to cut my boots.

I know, wierd ah. Oh well.

[RichieRichJP]

I have great condition axles with CV joints for a 5sfe sale!
I have video in the link below and PM me if you want them...

[Strum]

I remember someone telling me that there are boots available that can be installed without removing the axle. From what I recall of the conversation, you cut off the old and wrap the new one around where the old one was located. Obviously it has a slit, so there has to be a way to seal it. I didn't pay too much attention to the conversation since at the time I didn't need one.

Fact or urban legend?

[DxElite]

Originally Posted by Strum

I remember someone telling me that there are boots available that can be installed without removing the axle. From what I recall of the conversation, you cut off the old and wrap the new one around where the old one was located. Obviously it has a slit, so there has to be a way to seal it. I didn't pay too much attention to the conversation since at the time I didn't need one.

Fact or urban legend?

Fact, they are called Quick boots and come in kits with everything you need. The kits come with a boot that is in 2 halves, grease, and clamps.
There are 2 kinds:
one is a cheap more universal type that clips together that I do NOT recommend
and the other uses chemical bonding

[cykaaro]

Originally Posted by cruisn76

As long as your axles are not ticking or making sounds then you are in the clear. But if they are then I suggest getting the whole axle done.

Personally I have gone through 2 boots on each side in the past year due to lowering the car and hitting misc crap that just so happens to cut my boots.

I know, wierd ah. Oh well.

You mean like the dust shield the ass in front of me hit, knocked up, hit the front of my cat and knocked the flange loose from the exhaust pipe so when I punched it, it blew everything from the cat back off of the pipe?

[cykaaro]

Originally Posted by Strum

I remember someone telling me that there are boots available that can be installed without removing the axle. From what I recall of the conversation, you cut off the old and wrap the new one around where the old one was located. Obviously it has a slit, so there has to be a way to seal it. I didn't pay too much attention to the conversation since at the time I didn't need one.

Fact or urban legend?

Actually was checking into this today. From what I was able to find out, at least on the passenger side, the outer boot is able to be replaced this way. As for the inner, there is no split boot. My inner of course is the one that cracked, but the outer isn't in much better shape, and only a matter of time until it goes. For the cost of doing it [$175 total] Just makes more sense to replace it with a new one as it'll be actually more work to take it out to put a new boot on. I believe mine are still the originals in the car.