Gen 4 Camry - Gen 1 Solara Walbro Fuel Pump Installation DIY

[ASG14]

Big thanks to Vik (Dawgz) for helping with the install and the DIY here.
1: Unscrew gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system.

2: Remove the rear seat bottom. Simply pull the seat up. It’s just held down by 2 grip tabs.

3: Pull up the metal shield. It’s just attached with sticky stuff. Make sure not to get any on the carpet or seats.

4: Unplug the electrical connector.

5: Unscrew the 2 8mm screws that hold the shield over the fuel line.



6: Remove the fuel line by holding in the 2 clips and gently pulling the line.



7: Pull out the fuel pump assembly and have a bucket to put it in, so that gas doesn’t leak all over the interior.



8: Take off the bottom white cap holding the fuel pump in.



9: Remove the white rectangle piece with the wires and metal rod.



10: Remove the main black fuel pump and housing, and unclip the harness.



11: Cut the OEM connector off, then crimp the connector that came with the aftermarket fuel pump back on.







12: Remove the 4 outside tabs on the fuel pump.





13: Assemble the fuel pump. Put on the filter and attach the metal O-ring to secure it. Then put o-rings (need to get at the hardware store) over the fuel pump outlet, and place the OEM O-ring on the top.



14: Slide the fuel pump into the main black housing, then plug in the connector. Next, slide in the fuel pump onto the assembly, and push back on the black housing.





15: Cut out the top center of the bottom white cap that holts the fuel pump on.



16: Put back on the white rectangle piece with the wires and metal rod.



17: Put back in the fuel pump assembly into the car. It is a SLIGHT bit longer then the OEM one was, so it is a bit tricky to screw down. This is normal, so don’t be worried. It takes a while to get it screwed down the 1st time.
17A: Place the round black bracket over the fuel pump assembly.
17B: Connect the fuel hose by simply sliding it onto the clips. Do NOT force it on. If it doesn’t go right on, the clip is in the wrong position.
17C: Place the smaller black cover back on.
17D: Screw the 8mm bolts back on in a criss cross pattern and torque to 35 in/lbs.





18: Plug the connector back in and put back on the cover.



19: Put back in seat.

[Hajoca]

Did you also modify the Fuel pressure regulator? (perhaps before the new pump?)

[PortugalFocus]

Sweet... I vote STICKY!!!

[Albuynp Ryeno]

Why go walbro? I have heard horror stories about them and everyone says the oem denso ones are way better.

[ASG14]

^ Ok, so find me a 255LPH OEM Denso.........

And I;ve never heard of anyone with issues dealing with the Walbro pump, and I have 10 friends or so, and know a LOT more then that, who have one installed.

[Eye8Pussies]

great write-up- added up FAQ/DIY

[Albuynp Ryeno]

Originally Posted by ASG14

^ Ok, so find me a 255LPH OEM Denso.........

And I;ve never heard of anyone with issues dealing with the Walbro pump, and I have 10 friends or so, and know a LOT more then that, who have one installed.

one quick search on supraforums and you will find everyone wishing they spent the extra few bucks on oem denso supra tt pumps over walbors.

[Chris Crash]

Originally Posted by Hajoca

Did you also modify the Fuel pressure regulator? (perhaps before the new pump?)

I second this question. I just tried starting my car for the first time after putting in the Walboro, and it will start and idle fine for a second or two, then bog down and die. It seems like it's "flooding" and getting too much fuel running way too rich. Could this be because I do not have an aftermarket FPR and the Walboro has too much pressure, running too rich?

[71Corolla]

Thanks for taking the time to post this, but I am going to warn you that the crimp connections you did are potentially unsafe, and are also unreliable.

[Nark]

Glad I saw this article because I'm about to replace my cressida pump.
However, I would personally recommend wrapping those crimps with heat-shrink. If those wiring ever come apart due to corrosion or vibration, you might need a new car...It seem like oem has heat-shrink as well.

[RichieRichJP]

Agreed with the two posts above.
I NEVER use butt connectors on anything. Always heat-shrink/liquid tape and solder.

[Chris Crash]

Yeah, I butt spliced it on there but luckily it didn't work so I removed it and thought to myself how terrible butt splices would be in a gas tank....so I'm going to redo it with heat shrink the RIGHT way.

[RichieRichJP]

Just the thought of wires in the gas tank scares me lol

[Chris Crash]

Agreed. I've slowly learned that butt splices are absolute junk, pointless to use them anywhere. I don't even use them on stereo's anymore....