3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Few weeks ago had an issue with the car, ripped coolant hose under the plenum, then car overheated that day and got it towed. Ended up with white smoke. The engine was still idling OK just a bit low.
So got this mechanic to replace my 3VZFE's head gaskets.
The head was checked out and skimmed, got everything back together, car run fine after setting the ignition timing then 10 mins later the car started running rough, blowing white smoke and water from the exhaust like before.
Head is noisier clicky noise? running low on idle, ignition doesnt seem right as you gotta hold the accelerator pedal to keep it running.
The mechanic broke a white plastic nipple on the inlet manifold to the plenum and he currently just block that for now. ( does this needs to be connected to run properly?) he said he just blocked it as it just recycles the air...I think it should be connect as it was not blocked.
Now how can we determine whats causing this issue like a blown HG again?
Cracked block? is this common? how do we test this?
Is there oil in coolant, coolant in oil, or just coolant in cylinders? Did the mechanic detect exhaust gases in coolant (with a sniffer)? Was the block checked for cracks and warpage? Were new head bolts used? Were surfaces clean? Were the threads chased? etc etc
If the problem started with overheating then it's most likely just the head gasket. However, if the head bolt holes were not cleaned out properly (with oil/coolant still in there), then when the bolts were torqued down the block could crack.
The 3VZFE was bad news, not that early 1MZ (aluminum version) were any better, but there was also the question of workmanship here. New gaskets shouldn't leak on any engine.
Some have air assist hoses to help injector atomization. Not sure on the 3VZ.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C110GTR
Hi
Few weeks ago had an issue with the car, ripped coolant hose under the plenum, then car overheated that day and got it towed. Ended up with white smoke. The engine was still idling OK just a bit low.
So got this mechanic to replace my 3VZFE's head gaskets.
The head was checked out and skimmed, got everything back together, car run fine after setting the ignition timing then 10 mins later the car started running rough, blowing white smoke and water from the exhaust like before.
Head is noisier clicky noise? running low on idle, ignition doesnt seem right as you gotta hold the accelerator pedal to keep it running.
The mechanic broke a white plastic nipple on the inlet manifold to the plenum and he currently just block that for now. ( does this needs to be connected to run properly?) he said he just blocked it as it just recycles the air...I think it should be connect as it was not blocked.
Now how can we determine whats causing this issue like a blown HG again?
Cracked block? is this common? how do we test this?
Sounds like maybe the coolant was not flowing properly when you put it back together? That would explain the noisy heads which are not getting sufficient cooling. Even so, you should not be getting a blown HG again with it simply idling for 10 mins. It would take some considerable pressure with a new gasket. Perhaps you have a cracked cylinder sleeve as suggested or one of the heads has a crack? Did you get them magnafluxed? What was the condition of the old gaskets when the heads were removed? Were there obvious blown areas?
This all started when after overheating I noticed that its blowing white smoke and idling really low, so I assumed that time after researching and asking peo No visible milky residue on the cap or oil dipstick or even in the radiator that water and oil are mixing together.
Upon opening the head we noticed the "milky" residue but not that much. The head taken to a engine rebuilder/head machining to get checked and it was machined then cleaned.
We didnt check the block if its cracked or not. I've read that its not very commong to crack a block unless you've been driving the car for a very long period with it overheating.
Everything was put back again, and the mechanic suggested that we can re-use the head bolts even though I suggested that its supposed to be replaced every time you take it off. The mechanic inspected the bolts and told me that they are fine to re-use.
the mechanic hasnt changed the oil yet as to test if there's any coolant leaking...
The old gasket didnt look too bad not sure where it blew though I think its between #6 cylinder, I'll check with the mechanic.
Right now the temp needle is just sitting right on the middle. The mechanic hasnt check for exhaust gas in coolant, thats the next step now.
Im not sure if the head was magnafluxed when it was with the machinist.
Pull spark plugs. Check for coolant in cylinder(s).
Magnaflux works only on iron blocks, not alum cylinder heads. You'll need dye penetrant to check for aluminum cracks.
Toyota does allow reuse of head bolts when they didn't stretch enough. But I think this is bad suggestion, because uneven clamping force may result.
We don't know if the head bolts are the problem now, but this is an example of why I'd rather change these than having to dig back in again. Now you'll need new head gaskets too -- if the heads/block were properly checked out and measured true in the first place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C110GTR
This all started when after overheating I noticed that its blowing white smoke and idling really low, so I assumed that time after researching and asking peo No visible milky residue on the cap or oil dipstick or even in the radiator that water and oil are mixing together.
Upon opening the head we noticed the "milky" residue but not that much. The head taken to a engine rebuilder/head machining to get checked and it was machined then cleaned.
We didnt check the block if its cracked or not. I've read that its not very commong to crack a block unless you've been driving the car for a very long period with it overheating.
Everything was put back again, and the mechanic suggested that we can re-use the head bolts even though I suggested that its supposed to be replaced every time you take it off. The mechanic inspected the bolts and told me that they are fine to re-use.
the mechanic hasnt changed the oil yet as to test if there's any coolant leaking...
The old gasket didnt look too bad not sure where it blew though I think its between #6 cylinder, I'll check with the mechanic.
Right now the temp needle is just sitting right on the middle. The mechanic hasnt check for exhaust gas in coolant, thats the next step now.
Im not sure if the head was magnafluxed when it was with the machinist.
If there is coolant/oil left in the head bolt holes, they won't compress when torquing down and the block can crack. So clean, clean, and clean again. Chase the threads (not tap) and lube head bolts according to direction.
But who knows, maybe everything was done right but it's just the 3VZ.
Quote:
Originally Posted by C110GTR
We didnt check the block if its cracked or not. I've read that its not very commong to crack a block unless you've been driving the car for a very long period with it overheating.
The 3vz is not a bad engine, we only had it over here in the states for two years before the 1mz was introduced so there arent that many around and the youngest are now pushing 16 years.
Nothing about the engine is particularly unreliable other than the old/crappy egr setup the feds required in North America. Neglect will cause many problems down the road on any car, the 3vz just gets a bad rep because people buy a car that has never had a coolant flush, flush the coolant and woah all of a sudden they need a whole new cooling system... Happens on anything. Not saying thats what this particular case entails, just taking up for the 3vz crowd
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony the Tiger
I mod my Camry because I am too cheap to go out and buy a real sports car
1992 Camry XLE v6: p&p + 3angle, CAI, y pipe, K-Sport coilovers, 5-speed swap
1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: IPT 3700 restall, DSMlink v3, HKS exhaust, ETS street fmic kit
But I've checked the condition of my belt and it looks great no worn edges or teeth, as this was replaced maybe 40,000 klms ago and its a better brand GATES.
I've read something that 3VZFE are non interferance, that when your belt breaks the engine just stalls and wont break anything else.
Any advice which path should I take? Should I just buy the kit and keep the unused items for later?
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Blown Head Gasket Issue
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