3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi All My 97 camry got a problem on the rear passenger side. When I jack the car up, I can hear the "click" if I try to shack the tire side by side. Up and down is ok. I thought it was the wheel hub bearing and just replaced. It still make that noise. So I remove the tire and try to shack the whole part and the noise seem coming from the struts. I talk to my auto guy and he said if the struts is worn, I should be able to make the noise by hold the tire up and down not left/right side.... Then what could it be?
Take at look at the 2 rear lateral control rods on that side. You might even be able to reproduce the noise with your head under there (with the car supported safely on jackstands). It's usually the rubber bushings in the rear most one that go out first. but check both of them.
Take at look at the 2 rear lateral control rods on that side. You might even be able to reproduce the noise with your head under there (with the car supported safely on jackstands). It's usually the rubber bushings in the rear most one that go out first. but check both of them.
Mike
Hi Mike
Are you talking about this one? The end on the left?
Are you talking about this one? The end on the left?
Yes. That's the rear most one. Also take a visual look at the one just forward of that one. It's usually the rubber bushing portion of that rear control rod (the one near the tire) that goes out. A simple test is to raise the car off the ground (safely) and stick your head under there and have someone grab the tire and wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 and try to rock it. You can usually hear the noise and see the bushing move. If that's the case ,the only fix is to replace the rod and redo the alignment. Toyota refers to it as "rear lateral control rod number 1" [for the front one] and "rear lateral control rod number 2" [for the rear-most one with the alignment sleeve]. I believe this is a dealer only part that runs about $150. I don't know of anyone selling just the bushing(s).
Yes. That's the rear most one. Also take a visual look at the one just forward of that one. It's usually the rubber bushing portion of that rear control rod (the one near the tire) that goes out. A simple test is to raise the car off the ground (safely) and stick your head under there and have someone grab the tire and wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 and try to rock it. You can usually hear the noise and see the bushing move. If that's the case ,the only fix is to replace the rod and redo the alignment. Toyota refers to it as "rear lateral control rod number 1" [for the front one] and "rear lateral control rod number 2" [for the rear-most one with the alignment sleeve]. I believe this is a dealer only part that runs about $150. I don't know of anyone selling just the bushing(s).
OK. Just check last night and YES. The No2 on the passenger side is loss...
Instead of replace the whole rod, is there other way to fix it? I heard ppl using Teflon tape wipe around before install the bushing. Can I use Teflon tape just fix it for a year or something...
OK. Just check last night and YES. The No2 on the passenger side is loss...
Instead of replace the whole rod, is there other way to fix it? I heard ppl using Teflon tape wipe around before install the bushing. Can I use Teflon tape just fix it for a year or something...
I wouldn't suggest that. You would need a pretty big hydraulic press to press the bushing in and out and I'm not sure if the bushings are even available seperately. I think you are just going to have to bite the bullet on this repair and buy the part OEM. Replace it and then redo the alignment. If you find this part or the bushings in the aftermarket, post back here so eveyone can benefit by your find.
I wouldn't suggest that. You would need a pretty big hydraulic press to press the bushing in and out and I'm not sure if the bushings are even available seperately. I think you are just going to have to bite the bullet on this repair and buy the part OEM. Replace it and then redo the alignment. If you find this part or the bushings in the aftermarket, post back here so eveyone can benefit by your find.
Mike
I still not be able to find the oem bushing. But what I am thing about is wipe the Teflon tape on that big screw, then put the bushing back. The tape should fill the gap and stop the click noise.
I don't think that will work. I replaced this exact part on my Cam last week for the same reason. With the arm removed from the vehicle, it felt like there was a ball joint on the outer end. It's definitely not just a simple rubber bushing. I couldn't see any way to get in there and tighten it up. BTW, I purchased the new part from toyotapartsales.com; the "w/ ABS" version was ~$136 including shipping.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
From ToyotaPartSales.com
Item Number MSRP Core Price Price
4873033050 $159.79 $0.00 $124.88
Rear suspension - Lower control arm - Rear arm
Rear arm, camry, right, w/o solara, japan built - avalon, camry, corolla 1995-02 1997 - 2001
Shipping should be about $18.73...
This has been a really informative thread. I'm pretty sure I have the same problem on my passenger side rear wheel (1995 Camry LE Sedan). It's been going on for 2 years and I had it looked at. Thankfully i didn't trust the Monroe guys to replace my four struts and mounts for 800. One other mechanic said it was the bushings, and that he just greased them up for me for free. Basically, he said don't stress out over it. It has gotten a bit worse though. Rattling sounds on certain bumps.
How hard is this control rod to replace?? It looks like I don't even have to take the tire off and just have to undo two bolts. I can do my own oil changes, change a tire, and can put together ikea furniture. Should I try this on my own and then take it in for an alignment when I'm done?
I can't find any step-by-step info on the web. Any links?
"Should I try this on my own and then take it in for an alignment when I'm done?"
You can give it a try. It is only those two bolts but they can be a PITA. I suggest soaking them in some good penetrating oil like PB Blaster (not WD-40) for a couple of days before trying this. Spary them each day and then drive the car for those days so the vibrations of driving will help the penetrating oil work itself in to the threads. Then try to loosen those bolts.
pc65 - Yeah, it's a pretty simple job. Like you said, There's no need to remove the tire, and get it aligned when you're done. I did mine with the rear wheels up on ramps. To get the alignment reasonably close (so I could drive to the alignment shop without tearing up my tires), I measured the center-to-center bolt-hole distance on the old part with a tape measure and set the new one to match it before installing it. And like Mike said, soak those bolts with some penetrating oil long before you tackle the job. Time is your friend.
The fasteners on mine were REALLY tight. I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar PLUS a 3 foot long piece of pipe to get enough leverage to crack 'em loose.
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1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
Thanks BMR and Mike for the tips! I'll put it on the jack and check it out. If it's the control rod, I'll get on those bolts and definitely take that bolt-to-bolt measurement. You guys rock. I'll post an update with how it turns out.
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