Gen 4 V6 clutch replacement

[psyclemania]

Searched and read through a bunch of the clutch replacement threads, of course found the clutch replacement write up but all the easy, successful ones seem to be on 4cyl cars. Has anyone used this technique successfully on a V6? Are the trannys that different? Is becasue it's a V6 it's automatically a sub frame drop to remove the tranny? I was getting ready to do mine, but now I am thinking shop.

[bronzemaxell]

Originally Posted by psyclemania

Searched and read through a bunch of the clutch replacement threads, of course found the clutch replacement write up but all the easy, successful ones seem to be on 4cyl cars. Has anyone used this technique successfully on a V6? Are the trannys that different? Is becasue it's a V6 it's automatically a sub frame drop to remove the tranny? I was getting ready to do mine, but now I am thinking shop.

V6 can be done the same way without dropping the subframe at home garage, done it once, there will be enough room to remove and reinstall clutch plate and flywheel, though not as much of room like the 4cyl, v6 tranny is bigger. if you bring it to the shop, they will do drop the subframe without any question asked.

[psyclemania]

Okay, thanks. I want to do the rear main seal at the same time while the tranny is out, so it is starting to sound a bit tight for all that. One shop said they had to drop the oil pan to replace the RMS.
I also have access to a shop with a lift and things like tranny jacks, etc. The problem is the only extended time I can get there is saturday 9-5, and it dosnt sound like this is a 8 hour job, especially with resurfacing the flywheel. I can get in the shop M-F, but I have to take off work to do that. Then I might as well pay someone to do it. Such a delimma.

[bronzemaxell]

once you take out the clutch disc and pressure plate, and flywheel, there should be plenty of room to do the rear main seal, because the tranny can be slide to the side, landing on the subframe with a jack supporting it from buttom. from my memory, about 10 to 14inch of space, and then the tranny housing is cave in, so another 6 to 10 inch of additional working space.

there is no need to drop the oil pan while replace the real main seal, although it can be done at same time as a preventive maintainance.

here is a list i did during clutch swap
clutch disc
pressure plate
release bearing
rear main seal
both axle seals at differential housing

other things like Redline MT90, pilot bearing guide rod, heavy duty grease, resurface flywheel if not smooth

[psyclemania]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

<snip> there should be plenty of room to do the rear main seal, because the tranny can be slide to the side, landing on the subframe with a jack supporting it from buttom.

That is really what I was asking for in this post, is there enough room? This is V6, not the I4, and some people were saying the V6 tranny is so big it wont slide onto the sub frame.

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

there is no need to drop the oil pan while replace the real main seal, although it can be done at same time as a preventive maintainance.

I think that they were anticipating taking out the rear main seal retainer, putting in a new seal, and reinstalling the RMS retainer. My Hayes says you need to drop the pan to take out the retainer, but it sounds like people get the seal in there leaving in the RMS retainer.

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

here is a list i did during clutch swap
clutch disc
pressure plate
release bearing
rear main seal
both axle seals at differential housing

other things like Redline MT90, pilot bearing guide rod, heavy duty grease, resurface flywheel if not smooth

Pretty much the exact list I was planning on doing!

[bronzemaxell]

Like i said, i've done both 4cyl and V6, and yes, the V6 tranny has enough room to slide to the side or maneuver around the engine bay, if you look at your engine bay, imagine if you remove the battery tray, and air box, starter, etc, you will see approx how much room you have for the tranny to move around.

the most straight forward way is drop the subframe, as described in factory service manual, and hayes manual, given there is a hoist/lift. but home mechanic still able to do clutch swap on i4/v6 at home garage without dropping subframe.

as far as the rear main seal, i just pry out the old seal, and pushed/hammer the new one in evenly joint with two wooden stick

[psyclemania]

Originally Posted by bronzemaxell

here is a list i did during clutch swap
clutch disc
pressure plate
release bearing
rear main seal
both axle seals at differential housing

The big weekend is here. I bought all the above original OEM. Looking through all the clutch replace threads, nobody mentions the transaxle input seal. Worth replacing? Looks like about $10 for that one too.
I have a lift, so I am pretty sure I am going to drop the transaxle all the way out of the vehicle, so the thing will be on the ground for replacing all the seals.

[megamac83]

I'm sorry I would take the motor and trans together out of the top!!! hands down the easiest way to get it done bro!!!!

[mazdaverx7]

not much is different between the Gen 3 and the Gen 4, but i did the job myself on my 92 SE. when i did the clutch in my 92 SE, i replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, rear main seal, oil pan gasket (used sealer per fsm), outsput shaft seals, power steering pump and belts, fuel filter , and had the flywheel machined. when all was said and done, that job set me back about $500 and i did the work myself. prior to doing the clutch job, i was quoted by the dealer at $1500 labor plus parts. since i do my own work, i saved a ton of money and learned a lot about my Camry in the process. i also feel that the most thorough way to do the job is to remove the subframe. its really not all that hard. removing the engine and trans together is not a great idea unless you are doing some engine work at the same time such as a timing belt and water pump or head work. after the clutch replacement, i replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and valve cover gaskets.

here are a couple of quick pics from my clutch replacement that kinda show you what you're getting yourself into:

[psyclemania]

Originally Posted by psyclemania

The big weekend is here.

Well, my son who was going to help me on saturday bailed on me, so I enlisted the help of my 86 year old father. We started about 10am, and by 1pm the transaxle was separated from the engine, took a break for lunch and by 2pm the pressure plate and clutch were on the ground, and the flywheel in my hand. Granted I have access to a shop and it is on a lift, and there is a transmission stand.
The transaxle has enough room to slide over and get at everything, but will not drop out without a sub frame removal. I slid the trans back into place w/o the clutch and put two bolts in to hold it.

I have a rear mail seal, worried about getting old out/new in with the trans where it is. The guy at the shop said it's not leaking enough to worry about replacing it, and that a new one may leak more (??!!??). I think I want to still put the new one in. Old one is 10 years and 180,000 miles old.

I'm thinking about disconnecting the steering knuckle and dropping just one side of the sub frame to get the transaxle completely out where I can clean it and put the new axle seals in, and do the RMS easier.

Right now, the flywheel is at the machine shop getting turned. Tomorrow it all goes back together. Oh, the pressure plate side of the clutch was just barely starting to touch the metal rivets. the flywheel had some heat spots, but the machne shop said it would be just fine. $35 to turn it.

[Eye8Pussies]

great to hear that you guys tackled it yourself

as for the rear main seal- if it's leaking at all, change it. if it looks spotless....I wouldn't touch it. because then a new one may have the chance of leaking. but if it's already leaking, change it.


as for your question about transaxle input seal- are you referring to the seal that is on the belhousing and the input shaft? that seal is cheap, but you would have to disassemble the entire transmission to get to that one....so...no, unless it's leaking. Then you may be better off picking up a new tranny since changing it will be the same cost as a rebuild (minus parts)

[psyclemania]

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

great to hear that you guys tackled it yourself

Ha ha! Yeah, I am having fun telling everyone that my 20yo son wouldnt help me, but my 86yo father would! He's quite spry! He didnt really do wrenching, but took everything I ripped out and organized, labeled, etc. Was there for passing tools to when I needed two hands and all that. 3 hours to get it out was not bad as far as I am concerned!

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

as for the rear main seal- if it's leaking at all, change it. if it looks spotless....I wouldn't touch it. because then a new one may have the chance of leaking. but if it's already leaking, change it.

Not spotless, but the start of a tiny dribble. I'm gonna tackle it.

Originally Posted by Eye8Pussies

as for your question about transaxle input seal- are you referring to the seal that is on the belhousing and the input shaft? that seal is cheap, but you would have to disassemble the entire transmission to get to that one....so...no, unless it's leaking.

Yes, that would be the one (I guess). No wonder no one ever talks about it. i will leave it be.

[mazdaverx7]

you may find that its eaiser to just drop the entire subframe rahter than try and work around it. its only like four bolts and two nuts if i remember correctly. the downside is that the sucker has a little bit of weight. you will also want to have the flywheel surfaced and DEFINATLY change that rear main seal. why not replace it while its apart??? if it gets worse it'll not only leak but can ruin your clutch disc.

[Gibson99]

the problem with dropping the subframe is, like you said, it's heavy, but your alignment will be off. it's true its only 4 main bolts, but don't forget motor mounts (and a way to support the motor from above), steering gear, and a few other little things. it's just tedious to me.

if i have to drop a subframe, the hardest part of dropping for me is taking off the steering gear. i leave the lower control arms attached, and disconnect the lower ball joints. so it looks like the subframe has floppy wings. hehe

[mazdaverx7]

when i dropped the subframe in my SE, i left the rack in the car. i unbolted it from the subframe and made sure it was secure and all was well. i used an engine hoist to secure the engine from the top.