3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
It has come to my attention that my 99 Camry with 200k miles needs struts, inner/outer tie rods and links replaced. It has been a while since I got my hands greased up with car repairs, but in an effort to save a little money and hang on to the car (which runs great) I decided to do the work myself.
I'm not sure which brands are better than another for different parts. Any suggestions on brand names that are generally better?
I decided to use a quick strut instead of just replacing the strut since the car has 200k miles on it I figured the spring could use a replacement at the same time. It will make the job easier too.
Doing some quick looking around it seems people have enormous differing opinion on brands. I'm just wondering if there is a brand to specifically trust or a brand to stay away from. I'm not trying to start any flame wars just wandering if there is any consensus.
Quick Strut: Monroe or KYB or Delco or ??? I read that KYB is closest to OEM part.
Tie Rods: Movetech, Monroe or Beck Arnley or ???
Links: Moog or Mevotech or ???
I figure I could buy the parts and do all the work at one time. (Do the 2 fronts and then the 2 backs the next day). Maybe that is a bit ambitious. I'm not sure the time that will be needed but I'm guessing 5 hours per side at the max especially since I haven't done this stuff in a while.
I'd use Spicer (now called Raybestos) if you don't want Toyota. Check rockauto.com for prices. The last post I read about KYB mounts is that they look like junk.
Personally I don't care for Monroe SensaTrac which they use in the QuickStrut. But seems like people who installed them liked them. The assembly contains all new parts and is the easiest to install. Once you are on the second one it may take you 15 minutes, not counting jacking up that corner and bringing over the tools, which might take more time if you know what I mean.
As far as sway bar links and tie rod ends I'd go with Spicer/Raybestos. These are permanently sealed units. A lot easier than having to grease the Moog ones, although the Moog should last 2x the life.
As far as Keep Your Bilsteins (aka KYB). They feel like low-tech progressively dampened struts, which gives you a jolt up the spine going over lane markers. This is what we call a "harsh" strut, which is different from a "firm" strut.
I would use Gabriel Ultra. It's multi-stage velocity senstive valving. Feels like a digressively dampened strut. A Popular Mechanics Editor Choice Award winner. But the disadvantage is having to buy all the parts separately. Takes time and muscle.
So ask how people like their SensaTracs and get QuickStruts. It's easiest and quickest. But as you found out, people's mileage can vary!
It has come to my attention that my 99 Camry with 200k miles needs struts, inner/outer tie rods and links replaced. It has been a while since I got my hands greased up with car repairs, but in an effort to save a little money and hang on to the car (which runs great) I decided to do the work myself.
I'm not sure which brands are better than another for different parts. Any suggestions on brand names that are generally better?
I decided to use a quick strut instead of just replacing the strut since the car has 200k miles on it I figured the spring could use a replacement at the same time. It will make the job easier too.
Doing some quick looking around it seems people have enormous differing opinion on brands. I'm just wondering if there is a brand to specifically trust or a brand to stay away from. I'm not trying to start any flame wars just wandering if there is any consensus.
Quick Strut: Monroe or KYB or Delco or ??? I read that KYB is closest to OEM part.
Tie Rods: Movetech, Monroe or Beck Arnley or ???
Links: Moog or Mevotech or ???
I figure I could buy the parts and do all the work at one time. (Do the 2 fronts and then the 2 backs the next day). Maybe that is a bit ambitious. I'm not sure the time that will be needed but I'm guessing 5 hours per side at the max especially since I haven't done this stuff in a while.
Monroes when new feel like worn out KYBs, well, on our Odyssey anyway. I'd go with Tokicos or KYBs and replace the springs while you're at it. Don't use a spring compressor, just take the old assemplies out, and bring 'em to your local garage with a couple 6 packs, have them reassemble (may cost you $20-50), and reinstall. Then have them align.
Note that the above is general advice, check around here for more Gen3-4 specific advice. I'm having mine done now, KYBs and Eibachs, hoping for something not spine crushing but significantly more enjoyable than 170k OE struts...
Thank you JohnGD and dixonL2. I watched the Gabriel's G-Force video and felt instantly like I was back in elementary school watching some sort of instructional/educational video. haha
So you guys don't think the quick struts are all that good? I've seen only 2 brands for quick struts so far, Monroe and KYB. KYB's struts (not quick) are ok?
Hmmm... This is going to require me to read more to get a better sense for the brand(s) to go with and the route I want to take.
I just specked out everything at rockauto.com in Raybestos brand to see how much it would cost. With everything in the shopping cart that (I think) I would need to build the entire strut assembly plus tie rods and stabilizer bar links and it totaled to just over $880. Out of curiosity, I also specked out all the parts at Napaonline.com without being aware of brand names and it came to $1045 and that was with the quick struts in that shopping cart.
I'll have to do some more research online tomorrow but doing the work myself (could potentially) save a couple thousand dollars compared to what the local repair shop estimated.
If I build a strut myself I just want to make sure i have my list correct. I'll need:
a coil spring
strut bellow
strut bumper
strut mount
coil spring seat lower
coil spring seat upper
I figure nothing will be salvageable except for the bolts and nuts, but I feel like I'm missing something from that strut assembly. I'll have to pull out my camry repair manual and get the process in my head better. Thankfully there are some nice videos online to show the basics of the process.
dixonL2: I would make use of the local shop, but I'll be working on my only car so there will be no way of getting the assembly to them. I think I can handle the spring compression clamps and I may be able to rent or borrow a set from the local auto store or from my brother. He did his struts a couple years ago and bought the equipment then (but he lives a couple states away so I'll first see if I can just rent them for a weekend).
Ok slap my head from stupidity... if I'm building the strut assembly before putting it on the car, I don't have to take the old one off first so I could have the local repair place assemble them for me. Although it appears spring compressors only cost about $30 to $40.
If Monroe phased out the SensaTrac with the new Reflex for this model year I would get Monroe. But I can only refer to those who like Sensatracs, and maybe they can tell you more. I personally don't care for KYBs, but there are others who like those too. People's mileage differ.
If you are going to assemble your own (or have a shop do it), I would recommend getting the one-piece front upper spring seat/bellow from the dealer. Does a much better job of keeping out water than any aftermarket brand. So your revised list:
a coil spring (OEM) strut bellow/coil spring seat upper
strut bumper
strut mount
coil spring seat lower front strut bearing (if you can't repack your existing ones) plus the strut of course You can reuse the bearing plate under the mount/bearing. For the rear mount it usually comes with the bellow/upper seat. So check first. Your might want to get the V6 rear springs. Because I heard the I4 ones are really cheesy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnorman5828
If I build a strut myself I just want to make sure i have my list correct. I'll need:
a coil spring
strut bellow
strut bumper
strut mount
coil spring seat lower
coil spring seat upper
I figure nothing will be salvageable except for the bolts and nuts, but I feel like I'm missing something from that strut assembly. I'll have to pull out my camry repair manual and get the process in my head better. Thankfully there are some nice videos online to show the basics of the process.
You can check to see if you can reuse the front bearing plate instead of buying a new one. You may even be able to repack the front bearings. But if you're using new parts, get a mount that comes with the bearing. You may even be able to reuse the strut bumper, but that's a bit iffy over the miles.
As far as loaner tools go, a spring compressor is available under the Autozone Free Loaner Tool Program. See what else you may need:
Check with the shop. See how much more to put the struts into the car. Since Monroe will pay $50 per corner to take theirs off under the eligible satisfaction program, the actual shop cost should be in the ball park. And that includes disassembling and reassembling. I know one owner here did it for less, but couldn't remember the numbers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tnorman5828
I figure nothing will be salvageable except for the bolts and nuts, but I feel like I'm missing something from that strut assembly. I'll have to pull out my camry repair manual and get the process in my head better. Thankfully there are some nice videos online to show the basics of the process.
dixonL2: I would make use of the local shop, but I'll be working on my only car so there will be no way of getting the assembly to them. I think I can handle the spring compression clamps and I may be able to rent or borrow a set from the local auto store or from my brother. He did his struts a couple years ago and bought the equipment then (but he lives a couple states away so I'll first see if I can just rent them for a weekend).
You're also likely to need an alignment. ~$60-80? If you do your own replacement make sure you jack up one end at a time to take the load off the sway bar otherwise it's loaded and dangerous.
In that generation or thereafter, Toyota started using (cheaper) cheesy springs in the rear that doesn't hold up to weight compared to the V6 ones. So you see the 4-cyls sitting low in the back if you put a couple of adults back there like taking colleagues out to lunch. So I read some owners swapping out the cheesy ones with v6 ones. However, I think many aftermarket brands are "real" springs and do not differentiate between the two. I've not look at those so I don't really know what they do to ride height.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny1337
what is this about using rear v6 springs? i also need to do my struts/springs soon and like to gather as much information as possible
I must have the good springs because I've never noticed it riding low in the back.
Quote:
If you do your own replacement make sure you jack up one end at a time to take the load off the sway bar otherwise it's loaded and dangerous.
I figure I would jack up the front end and put it on a couple blocks to hold it so all the weight is off both front wheels. Then do the same with the back once the front was done.
That will take off any load on the sway bar, right? I might even use the jack to help hold up the wheel I'm working on just so it isn't dangling or something I have to lift too much.
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