3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I know that write up's were done for the Gen4 to Gen4.5 headlight conversion and am aware of where they are, I did just that. I have everything hooked up, tightened, and ready to go. But one thing that I cannot figure out how to do is get my high beams to work! They say to "cap off" the passenger side connector, but how do you cap it off??
I have an open circuit form the passenger side H4 plug (going to the bulb) and that's it. I plug a bulb in there and then the high beams work. I then take the bulb out and the high beams go off and don't come back on until i close the circuit. I don't want to cut the wiring but I need to bridge the connection some how.
Thanks!!
__________________ 1998 Camry XLE | Black | Custom Halo Lights | Fogs | Infinity Kappa front speakers | Infinity Reference Sub | SRI Secret Weapon R...
So I cut the wires and put them together various ways, nothing seemed to work. And I blew a total of 5 fuses and still no high beams... I'm on the verge of bring it to a shop - really don't want to do that - You guys know something about this, let me know! I'm willing to try various things to get the lights to work.
__________________ 1998 Camry XLE | Black | Custom Halo Lights | Fogs | Infinity Kappa front speakers | Infinity Reference Sub | SRI Secret Weapon R...
Then it says down in the bottom right hand corner to 'cap off' (Mind you I got this diagram from some one TN and I don't remember who it was, so I did not draw this, but this is what I did to wire everything up)
__________________ 1998 Camry XLE | Black | Custom Halo Lights | Fogs | Infinity Kappa front speakers | Infinity Reference Sub | SRI Secret Weapon R...
only thing i can think of is to put a diode from high to low side on the passenger side. (this will make it so that it will keep the low beam on when you turn on the high beam.) i only did something like this once before (honda) but i had the diode in before i finished up.
oh just stick the diode in it and elctro tape it shut.
__________________
Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
So I cut the wires and put them together various ways, nothing seemed to work. And I blew a total of 5 fuses and still no high beams... I'm on the verge of bring it to a shop - really don't want to do that - You guys know something about this, let me know! I'm willing to try various things to get the lights to work.
you are essentially shorting the positive to negative... not a surprise you blew 5 fuses. as far as getting the high beams to work... i'm not familiar with the H4 system. but if you wired it according to the diagram, i don't see why it wouldn't work. are you sure you wired it correctly?
as far as the note "cap off passenger side"... it means to cover it or cap the end so dirt doesn't get in there. not what you are thinking it means.
__________________
2005 Camry "LE"
TL HID Retrofit | OEM Fogs | SE Bumper | SE Grill | Factory Spoiler | Kosei K1 TS 18x7.5 | BC Racing Coilovers
TRD [RSB | Strut Tower Brace | Exhaust] || Rear Drum to Disc Swap
What this really boils down to is the Gen 4 H4 bulb ONLY lights one filament at a time high, OR low, but the two bulb per side system in the Gen 4.5 is wired to keep the low beam bulb ON all the time. What you need to adapt is a standard 10 amp automotive relay (cheap). The relay goes to the battery and the low beam connection in parallel with the regular low beam power from the H4 socket (meaning they are connected together.) but is triggered by being connected to the high beam power. So, LOW beam power from the gen 4 powers the low beam bulb as normal but when the HIGH beams are turned on (which turns OFF the low power in a gen 4) the relay triggered by the high beam power POWERS the low beam bulbs again. Happens so fast you won't see the lows blink!. You really ought to buy a cheap < 10 bucks volt ohm meter if you are gonna mess with car electrics. BTW a standard "spade lug" terminal will plug right into an H4 bulb socket. Hope this helps. D Tuck (A standard auto relay has a "power IN terminal" (to battery) a power "out" terminal, (to bulbs)and trigger and ground for the relay mechanics. You want a "single pole, single throw ("SPST") relay.) (Some relays only have three terminals and the case, metal, is grounded when it is mounted to the car body. Be careful with those. The case has to see a good ground for the relay to trigger. I'd buy a plastic cased one with four (4) terminals and an inline fuse since it is going right to the battery.)
Last edited by Dick Tuck; 09-24-2009 at 07:50 PM.
Reason: added info
What this really boils down to is the Gen 4 H4 bulb ONLY lights one filament at a time high, OR low, but the two bulb per side system in the Gen 4.5 is wired to keep the low beam bulb ON all the time. What you need to adapt is a standard 10 amp automotive relay (cheap). The relay goes to the battery and the low beam connection in parallel with the regular low beam power from the H4 socket (meaning they are connected together.) but is triggered by being connected to the high beam power. So, LOW beam power from the gen 4 powers the low beam bulb as normal but when the HIGH beams are turned on (which turns OFF the low power in a gen 4) the relay triggered by the high beam power POWERS the low beam bulbs again. Happens so fast you won't see the lows blink!. You really ought to buy a cheap < 10 bucks volt ohm meter if you are gonna mess with car electrics. BTW a standard "spade lug" terminal will plug right into an H4 bulb socket. Hope this helps. D Tuck (A standard auto relay has a "power IN terminal" (to battery) a power "out" terminal, (to bulbs)and trigger and ground for the relay mechanics. You want a "single pole, single throw ("SPST") relay.) (Some relays only have three terminals and the case, metal, is grounded when it is mounted to the car body. Be careful with those. The case has to see a good ground for the relay to trigger. I'd buy a plastic cased one with four (4) terminals and an inline fuse since it is going right to the battery.)
or like i said you set a diode to one way send the current from the high beam to the low beam where it will trigger the relay thats already there saving have to wire another relay.
__________________
Signature Suspended as it is in violation of signature rules.
^ and leaving it that way!
If you "hardwire" them together they will BOTH be on all the time. Chronoti, there is ONE SPST relay in the 98 non-DRL headlight circuit and it simply turns power ON and OFF. The "combination switch" does the high- low switching. NO relay to switch with a diode. Now, a "power diode" could be used to feed the lows on "high" position but it would introduce about a one volt drop in the supply to the low beams and DOUBLE the load on the high beam portion of the switch which would no doubt burn out quickly. (seen it happen on other cars) The later "DRL" camrys have a different wiring system BUT they too only have a "either - or" SPDT relay. That relay CAN'T do both at once. Why don't you look at the diagram yourself
(always a good idea, BTW) and tell ME where your diode would be installed?
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
High beams - HELP
Linear Mode
