3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
So today I decided since I don't have to be at work until later I would throw on my 2 new front struts, kyb-gr2s. My current ones are both blown and clunking every chance they get.
My dilemma is that when I go to put these struts back in with my eibach springs on, they wont fit back in
Here's my question: These struts are designed for the gen 4 97-01, but I know are chassis are the same so I bought them anyway, is this why they won't fit???
Pic of the left OEM strut and a right KYB GR2: (they look almost identical)
Pic of the KYBs and eibachs set on the car, just not bolted in!
Pic showing the CLOSEST it will go to being bolted in!
Additional angle showing the closeness of it being in!
Notice that the strut rests on the boot underneathe, it wont go any higher, and the brake hub wont go any lower
Anybody had this problem before??? Any help would be great, if not these struts will be for sale, ASAP!
Hay just wondering, does the setup of the GR-2 and the eibach springs work well with the 4th gen camrys? i was looking for a nice comfortable setup nothing crazy.
Hay just wondering, does the setup of the GR-2 and the eibach springs work well with the 4th gen camrys? i was looking for a nice comfortable setup nothing crazy.
Good to hear you got it to work JCamry. Haha aren't the Zenn's knock offs of the Tein S-Techs??
The combination is ok for daily driving. If you want better handling I'd suggest the TRD rear sway bar and if possible, the TRD strut bar as well. Most people would recommend the Tokico struts over the KYB GR-2's though (stiffer ride).
1) I don't see a jack stand supporting the car...just a scissor jack....BAD idea. You NEVER work under a car supported by only a floor jack of any kind (especially the scissor type). You MUST use a jack stand, floor jacks can catastrophically fail, and make a really good day...a very bad one.
2) I hope that you used the upper strut bearing from the Gen4 (which has an integrated bearing)...you cannot use the upper strut mount from the gen3 with a gen4 strut. On the gen3, the bearing is built into the lower spring seat. The bearing and its location, allows the lower spring perch (and spring) to remain stationary while the lower section turns with the steering knuckle. On the gen4 is a good bit different- it allows the whole lower and upper spring perch (and spring) to turn with the steering knuckle (the bearing is above the upper spring perch).
Frankly, if you used the upper mount from the gen3, I don't know how you are turning the wheel without significant noise or effort...in fact I would imagine that you are either destroying the spring(s) or spring seat(s) by using the strut assemblies without bearings. The danger with this mistake is that you could break: a spring, a perch, or have the steering bind and not allow you to straighten out the wheel. You really do not want any of these problems while driving. It could certainly lead to you killing a bus full of nuns. If you did in fact use the gen4 strut with a gen3 upper mount (spring perch)---STOP DRIVING THE CAR and remedy the problem before the "fit hits the shan."
Nuns beware!
Good luck!
-=Adam
__________________ 1992 3VZ-FE with 218K Check her out
1) I don't see a jack stand supporting the car...just a scissor jack....BAD idea. You NEVER work under a car supported by only a floor jack of any kind (especially the scissor type). You MUST use a jack stand, floor jacks can catastrophically fail, and make a really good day...a very bad one.
2) I hope that you used the upper strut bearing from the Gen4 (which has an integrated bearing)...you cannot use the upper strut mount from the gen3 with a gen4 strut. On the gen3, the bearing is built into the lower spring seat. The bearing and its location, allows the lower spring perch (and spring) to remain stationary while the lower section turns with the steering knuckle. On the gen4 is a good bit different- it allows the whole lower and upper spring perch (and spring) to turn with the steering knuckle (the bearing is above the upper spring perch).
Frankly, if you used the upper mount from the gen3, I don't know how you are turning the wheel without significant noise or effort...in fact I would imagine that you are either destroying the spring(s) or spring seat(s) by using the strut assemblies without bearings. The danger with this mistake is that you could break: a spring, a perch, or have the steering bind and not allow you to straighten out the wheel. You really do not want any of these problems while driving. It could certainly lead to you killing a bus full of nuns. If you did in fact use the gen4 strut with a gen3 upper mount (spring perch)---STOP DRIVING THE CAR and remedy the problem before the "fit hits the shan."
Nuns beware!
Good luck!
-=Adam
hey man, thanks for the input, holy hell!
There was a jack there, but on to more important things!
I thought my combo of springs was just a bit noisy! Holy CRAP I guess that wasnt the case.
I have experienced a little bit of noise whenever I turn the wheel, small "thumps", and such.
So to get this straight, I NEED gen 4 mounts for my gen 4 struts or all hell could brake loose?
I currently have gen 3 mounts on there and have taken the car about 20+ miles since my suspension jobby :-(
THANKS VERY MUCH for the insight I will look into getting gen 4 strut mounts ASAP!!!!!
1) there is a difference between a "floor jack" and a "jack stand." The floor jack is what you use to raise the car up temporarily...you then "set" the car down on jack stands (see image below). It looked to me as though you had the front end lifted and supported using the factory scissor jack. The scissor jack is ONLY for changing a flat. It is not meant to support the car while you are working on it. In fact, you could lean against the car and a scissor jack can fail and drop your vehicle. I have heard of people losing limbs and/or dying from not properly supporting a vehicle.
A properly supported vehicle (using jack stands):
2) Yes...you must match the mount with the strut...you HAVE to get gen4 upper strut mounts. Otherwise, you are asking for problems. The other fix would be to buy the gen3 front struts and use the mounts you are presently using. It is really very serious the mistake you have made. Get it fixed as quickly as possible.
thanks,
-=Adam
__________________ 1992 3VZ-FE with 218K Check her out
I assume that you had to use a spring compressor to reassemble the units? They must be under a preload. If you did not HAVE to use a spring compressor for reassembly then something is still not right.
-=AdamS
__________________ 1992 3VZ-FE with 218K Check her out
I assume that you had to use a spring compressor to reassemble the units? They must be under a preload. If you did not HAVE to use a spring compressor for reassembly then something is still not right.
-=AdamS
For the eibach springs I did need a compressor. For the front Zenn springs I do NOT need one since they're smaller and they fit right in...
There's another member on here that has used them before with no problems on gen 3 struts though!
And I'm in love with the drop I get from them...
Safet comes first though. I just wish I knew how to fix this
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