3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I have a 2001 Camry with the 4-cyl, 5-speed. i was getting P0420 and P0446, and after reading gobs of info on this, replaced the canister. I am still getting P0420. After driving about 33 miles, the check eng light was back on.
There is almost too much info on the web about this, nothing precise, so i though i'd come here to the experts to get advice on next steps. I have to get this through Mass. State Inspection this month. Lots of fingers point to the O2 sensor(s) or the CAT. Some point to the EGR valve. I will try the gas cap, but i did that no too long ago.
Check the following article. The P0420 was determined by the ECU when the upstream and downstream sensor signals do not differ much. This seems to be a common problem:
I have a 2001 Camry with the 4-cyl, 5-speed. i was getting P0420 and P0446, and after reading gobs of info on this, replaced the canister. I am still getting P0420. After driving about 33 miles, the check eng light was back on.
There is almost too much info on the web about this, nothing precise, so i though i'd come here to the experts to get advice on next steps. I have to get this through Mass. State Inspection this month. Lots of fingers point to the O2 sensor(s) or the CAT. Some point to the EGR valve. I will try the gas cap, but i did that no too long ago.
Check the following article. The P0420 was determined by the ECU when the upstream and downstream sensor signals do not differ much. This seems to be a common problem:
This article explains it nicely! thanks for the post. Well, I finally surrendered. I have it sitting at the local toyota service shop now for a 9;30am appointment tomorrow for diagnosis. Having all this info will at least allow me to talk intelligently about the issue. I really hope it isn't the cat, and i'm gonna push 'em on:
- the O2 sensors
- tail pipe emission
- perhaps consider 'recalibrating' the computer to make it less senstiive
I'll post how I make out when i'm done crying over the bill :-(
this is the first time in YEARS that i've had to rely on a shop to do the work....
This article explains it nicely! thanks for the post. Well, I finally surrendered. I have it sitting at the local toyota service shop now for a 9;30am appointment tomorrow for diagnosis. Having all this info will at least allow me to talk intelligently about the issue. I really hope it isn't the cat, and i'm gonna push 'em on:
- the O2 sensors
- tail pipe emission
- perhaps consider 'recalibrating' the computer to make it less senstiive
I'll post how I make out when i'm done crying over the bill :-(
this is the first time in YEARS that i've had to rely on a shop to do the work....
-jc
P0420 almost indefinitely means the Catalytic Converter needs replacing. The DTC is triggered when there is little to no variance in the downstream (O2) sensor.... indicating the converter is not operating efficiently.
your not going to be able to recalibrate the computer on a 2001. pretty sure a p0420 is a cat code for efficiency of catalyst. if the rear o2 sensor is reading nicely and switching, i think you are going to need a cat.
P0420 almost indefinitely means the Catalytic Converter needs replacing. The DTC is triggered when there is little to no variance in the downstream (O2) sensor.... indicating the converter is not operating efficiently.
How much is this dealer part, approximately? I looked at it - does not look too bad to replace. How much of a pain is it to get the O2 sensor out? I assume the cat that fails is the one that is RIGHT after the exhaust header?
Liquid Wrench is your friend for getting out O2 sensors and exhaust manifold/pipe bolts/nuts. I always spray it down real good and let it set for about 5 minutes to penetrate as much as it can, crack it loose and then spray it some more...let it set about another 5minutes and then finish spinning it out.
NEVER try to spin it all the way out right away without spraying some type of rust penetrant first...Toyota exhausts don't like that...believe me...I speak from experience!!!
Liquid Wrench is your friend for getting out O2 sensors and exhaust manifold/pipe bolts/nuts. I always spray it down real good and let it set for about 5 minutes to penetrate as much as it can, crack it loose and then spray it some more...let it set about another 5minutes and then finish spinning it out.
NEVER try to spin it all the way out right away without spraying some type of rust penetrant first...Toyota exhausts don't like that...believe me...I speak from experience!!!
PB-Blaster also good?
Do you use an open-ended wrench? With that wire, looks like the options are open-ended or box-end wrench. What is the size, 17mm ? I have not tried it yet - not sure i have 17mm open-ended or box in stock.
How much is this dealer part, approximately? I looked at it - does not look too bad to replace. How much of a pain is it to get the O2 sensor out? I assume the cat that fails is the one that is RIGHT after the exhaust header?
-jc
you cant tell if a cat is bad by looking at it, thats why there is a sensor. dealer cats are a fortune. go after market and literally save several hundred dollars. would recommend replacing the cat and the sensor for two reasons - 1. wouldnt hurt to start with a fresh sensor for about, what, $70. 2. the old O2 sensor will put up quite a fight coming out of the old cat.
you cant tell if a cat is bad by looking at it, thats why there is a sensor. dealer cats are a fortune. go after market and literally save several hundred dollars. would recommend replacing the cat and the sensor for two reasons - 1. wouldnt hurt to start with a fresh sensor for about, what, $70. 2. the old O2 sensor will put up quite a fight coming out of the old cat.
I have read a fair number of posts indicating replacing the cat, if that is what i have to do, with aftermarket is a no-no on toyotas due to them being so sensitive. Has anyone in here done the after-market replacement with success?
Downstream oxygen sensor (after cat) is about $58 + shipping from rockauto.com. You need to splice the old connector on the Bosch universal (for the downstream). Or pay $30 more to get one with an OEM connector already on there.
Calif spec front is about $127 (Denso), Non-Calif about $90.
Quote:
Originally Posted by camry_jc
How much is this dealer part, approximately? I looked at it - does not look too bad to replace. How much of a pain is it to get the O2 sensor out? I assume the cat that fails is the one that is RIGHT after the exhaust header?
I wouldn't recommend an aftermarket cat on any Toyota vehicle...despite the savings it will most likely end up costing more in the long run.
I called my local Toyota Dealer, well, it isn't the closest one, but the one that typically has the best price on these things.
the manifold+cat+new studs+gasket is $386.37 out the door.
I was getting scared it would be north of $700.00
WhenI did poke around on the internet for aftermarket, it was hard to touch a price south of $400. So, if the tech says "cat" today, I'll say thanks, and get this part and DYI.
Do y'all suggest replacing the OS sensor with a new one while you're in there?
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