Loud 93 Camry LE 4-cyl

[timlnpi]

Hi, I'm a newbie here. Please help me out.

My 93 camry LE has 170,000 miles on it already. the car is pretty loud. the sound is from under the hood, like a blow out of a leaking pipe "poooopooo". the noise will go up a lot when pressing the gas or popping up the hood.

I'm looking for suggestions to get my car repaired. I prefer a DIY job than a shop repair. I replaced coil springs on my structs and the gas filling neck. That's the farthest I've ever done.

Please advise me, or tell me what kind of further info I should provide.

Thanks a lot.

[djb2]

Is this an exhaust leak?

You have to locate it.

Start by checking out the flex section of the exhaust pipe. It's covered by a woven stainless steel mesh.

If that's the problem, verify that you can unbolt the downpipe (14mm medium depth six point socket with about 15" of extensions) from the exhaust manifold and buy a new pipe from eBay. You'll probably need new gaskets for both ends, and new bolts at the catalytic converter.

[Mike Gerber]

I have to agree with djb2, the most likely cause on an exhaust leak up front is a leaking flex pipe. This is not a job I would want to do myself. I would take the car to an independent muffler shop. They can cut out the old flex pipe section and weld in a new one. Cost should be around $150. Just my 2 cents.

Mike

[Kenny_McCormic]

Assuming its a 4 banger, check that the manifold>pipe connection is good and pull the heat shields to check that the manifold is on good. My 92 had a bad exhaust leak(die of CO poisoning with the windows up bad), turned out the exhaust pipe was on with one bolt, one of the mani support bolts was gone, and the manifold had a broken off stud.

[timlnpi]

Originally Posted by djb2

Is this an exhaust leak?

You have to locate it.

Start by checking out the flex section of the exhaust pipe. It's covered by a woven stainless steel mesh.

If that's the problem, verify that you can unbolt the downpipe (14mm medium depth six point socket with about 15" of extensions) from the exhaust manifold and buy a new pipe from eBay. You'll probably need new gaskets for both ends, and new bolts at the catalytic converter.

Thank you for your help.
I saw the woven stainless steel mesh was worn out.
it there a way to check the leak on that pipe without taking it out?
Just another quick question before I rent the garage lift time. Are those bolts easy to remove?

-timlnpi

[timlnpi]

Originally Posted by Kenny_McCormic

Assuming its a 4 banger, check that the manifold>pipe connection is good and pull the heat shields to check that the manifold is on good. My 92 had a bad exhaust leak(die of CO poisoning with the windows up bad), turned out the exhaust pipe was on with one bolt, one of the mani support bolts was gone, and the manifold had a broken off stud.

Thanks for the info.

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by timlnpi

Thank you for your help.
I saw the woven stainless steel mesh was worn out.
it there a way to check the leak on that pipe without taking it out?
Just another quick question before I rent the garage lift time. Are those bolts easy to remove?

-timlnpi

Have someone stick a rag in the exhaust pipe while you get under the car and feel around the mesh. Chances are you will feel the exhaust escaping there.

As far as whether the bolts are easy to remove; they are not. All the heating and cooling cycles over the years along with road salt and rain causes them to rust in place. You usually need a torch to heat them to remove them and sometimes they still break. That's why this is not a job I prefer to do myself. YMMV.

Mike

[timlnpi]

Originally Posted by Mike Gerber

Have someone stick a rag in the exhaust pipe while you get under the car and feel around the mesh. Chances are you will feel the exhaust escaping there.

As far as whether the bolts are easy to remove; they are not. All the heating and cooling cycles over the years along with road salt and rain causes them to rust in place. You usually need a torch to heat them to remove them and sometimes they still break. That's why this is not a job I prefer to do myself. YMMV.

Mike

Thanks, Mike!

[djb2]

I practiced on boneyard cars, and didn't have a single stud break. There were a few nuts that rounded when I used a 12 point socket, but that problem was eliminated when I used a medium depth six point 14mm socket.

My experience with other cars is that heating with a MAPP torch make a major positive difference when removing exhaust nuts, but you can loosen them without heat on the Camry.

If you have the right extensions you can loosen the nuts from below without lifting the car. Once loose you'll need jack stands, ramps or driving one side onto a curb to do the rest: slide underneath, unbolt the exhaust brackets, finish loosening the downpipe-to-manifold nuts and drag the whole front-to-back system from under the car.

The bolts connecting the downpipe to the cat are a different story -- they very likely will require either heat or a saw. They pretty much will always need to be replaced, so a saw is easiest.

[Kenny_McCormic]

Actually my manifold nuts came right off. I got the car somewhat warmed up(idled in the driveway for a few minutes) with the heat shields off and then blasted the studs with liquid wrench(keep a garden hose around in the event that the penetrating oil catches fire) every few minutes till they stopped smoking, then I unbolted the(cooled enough to handle by now) manifold.

Use a six point and you will probably be fine.

[the_professional]

I had to hack off the rear section connection to the CAT. Those were just rusted together. The Front, was a bitch to get off,

[timlnpi]

I just checked the exhaust pipe under my Camry. The woven shield is totally gone and the inner section is leaky. The bolts connecting the downpipe to the catalytic converter are rust out to be a whole part with the connection. I'm worried about breaking the whole thing if I try to unbolt it. I'm now thinking about buying just the flex section from ebay and ask an independent shop to cut and weld for me.

Do you happen to know the dimension of the flex section? Parts I found online are 2.5"x6", 2.25"x6", 2.25"x8" etc. It's kind of hard to measure on the rusty pipe.

Thanks a lot!

Originally Posted by djb2

I practiced on boneyard cars, and didn't have a single stud break. There were a few nuts that rounded when I used a 12 point socket, but that problem was eliminated when I used a medium depth six point 14mm socket.

My experience with other cars is that heating with a MAPP torch make a major positive difference when removing exhaust nuts, but you can loosen them without heat on the Camry.

If you have the right extensions you can loosen the nuts from below without lifting the car. Once loose you'll need jack stands, ramps or driving one side onto a curb to do the rest: slide underneath, unbolt the exhaust brackets, finish loosening the downpipe-to-manifold nuts and drag the whole front-to-back system from under the car.

The bolts connecting the downpipe to the cat are a different story -- they very likely will require either heat or a saw. They pretty much will always need to be replaced, so a saw is easiest.

[the_professional]

Is the rest of the pipe in good shape?

I had to grab a thick flat head screw driver (I mean huge, like the diameter of your tire iron), and hammer away at the rusted bolts. Then find the right spot between the two sections, hack saw. Then try to fit the flat head screw driver in between the sawed sections & hammer away. Not too bad. & Of course you have to take the exhaust off before you do this. I had to take off everything from the exhaust manifold connection to the muffler itself, as it was all rusted together. It was worth the work.

[mazdaverx7]

can you post a pic at all? do you have access to a lift?

[timlnpi]

I will try to take pic tonight.
I have assess to a lift though i have to pay for that.

Originally Posted by mazdaverx7

can you post a pic at all? do you have access to a lift?