Transmission Problems - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

p@nda · 09-20-2009, 11:13 PM

I have a Gen 3 Camry, 4cyl AT with about 225k miles on it. In the past year or so, I've been having issues with the transmission. It will not shift down to 1st gear on its own after a stop. I am forced to go from a stop from 3rd or 4th gear. The engine rpms stop at about 2k whenever this happens. The car will downshift to a lower gear after a while (time range varies). This has been happening off and on.

I have searched the forums (I apologize if I didn't search hard enough to find a previous posting) and didn't find a post that dealt with this problem. Does anybody know what is going on? I flushed my transmission fluid in hopes that it would solve my problem but it didn't. I hope I don't have to replace the transmission

. If so, does anybody have any cost estimates or cost saving tips?

chronoti · 09-20-2009, 11:22 PM

check your kick down cable. it the only cable from the tb to the tranny. also lucas helps.

***JohnGD*** · 09-20-2009, 11:36 PM

So the engine does not rev above or below 2000 rpms?

Have you tried using L or 2? Would that help?

Quote:

Originally Posted by p@nda

I have a Gen 3 Camry, 4cyl AT with about 225k miles on it. In the past year or so, I've been having issues with the transmission. It will not shift down to 1st gear on its own after a stop. I am forced to go from a stop from 3rd or 4th gear. The engine rpms stop at about 2k whenever this happens. The car will downshift to a lower gear after a while (time range varies). This has been happening off and on.

I have searched the forums (I apologize if I didn't search hard enough to find a previous posting) and didn't find a post that dealt with this problem. Does anybody know what is going on? I flushed my transmission fluid in hopes that it would solve my problem but it didn't. I hope I don't have to replace the transmission

. If so, does anybody have any cost estimates or cost saving tips?

p@nda · 09-21-2009, 01:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGD

So the engine does not rev above or below 2000 rpms?

Have you tried using L or 2? Would that help?

When the tranny is on D, it'll go up to 2k and stay there until it finally changes gears.

If I manually shift to L while at a stop, the car will start from 1st gear.

What's Lucas?

chronoti · 09-21-2009, 01:08 AM

oil additive. but 1st take a look at the cable.

p@nda · 09-21-2009, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chronoti

oil additive. but 1st take a look at the cable.

So I just took a look at it; it feels like there's some slack in the cable. Should i tighten it up like in the "Harder/Quicker Shift" DIY?

chronoti · 09-21-2009, 11:17 AM

yup. maybe not as aggressive.

p@nda · 09-21-2009, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chronoti

yup. maybe not as aggressive.

I did that this morning and took it for a few test drives. I don't see much of a problem in the first 2 gears, but when I speed up for like highway speeds it takes a lot longer for the transmission to shift to the higher gears. Is that normal?

Kenny_McCormic · 09-21-2009, 08:42 PM

Normal, making the kickdown kickdown more means the trans will hold gears longer, and downshift with less pedal.

***JohnGD*** · 09-21-2009, 08:53 PM

No. That's not normal for delayed shifts. I'd adjust it according to Haynes or Autozone's free online guide or factory manual, at least for now.

If the transmission is working when you're in L or 2, that means the extra brake band is helping hold the drum with the shifts. You may have slippage caused by low ATF pressure or valve body problems. If it slips too long it'll glaze the clutch packs (basically like your brake pads material) and you'll need a rebuild.

With the linkages properly adjusted to factory specs, the easiest problem for us to solve is low line pressure from a restricted strainer. Have you ever clean the pan and change out the strainer? A Fram ATF kit is about $12-15. Walmart Dexron III is about $10 a gallon.

Then if you're still having problems I'd measure the line pressure. (You can measure pressure before changing out the strainer, too. But if it's never been done I'd just do it and remove a variable there.) You'll need a speciality ATF pressure gauge ~$40 online or take it to a shop. They'll probably do free diagnosis, but ask for the line pressure reading at idle and 2000 rpms. If it's in normal range then it probably SOL rebuild time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by p@nda

I did that this morning and took it for a few test drives. I don't see much of a problem in the first 2 gears, but when I speed up for like highway speeds it takes a lot longer for the transmission to shift to the higher gears. Is that normal?

p@nda · 09-21-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGD

No. That's not normal for delayed shifts. I'd adjust it according to Haynes or Autozone's free online guide or factory manual, at least for now.

If the transmission is working when you're in L or 2, that means the extra brake band is helping hold the drum with the shifts. You may have slippage caused by low ATF pressure or valve body problems. If it slips too long it'll glaze the clutch packs (basically like your brake pads material) and you'll need a rebuild.

With the linkages properly adjusted to factory specs, the easiest problem for us to solve is low line pressure from a restricted strainer. Have you ever clean the pan and change out the strainer? A Fram ATF kit is about $12-15. Walmart Dexron III is about $10 a gallon.

Then if you're still having problems I'd measure the line pressure. (You can measure pressure before changing out the strainer, too. But if it's never been done I'd just do it and remove a variable there.) You'll need a speciality ATF pressure gauge ~$40 online or take it to a shop. They'll probably do free diagnosis, but ask for the line pressure reading at idle and 2000 rpms. If it's in normal range then it probably SOL rebuild time.

I had the transmission flushed about 50k miles ago. That didn't solve the problem at all.

Oh, I forgot a small detail. I get a flashing overdrive off light occasionally when I'm driving. Is that a warning light for something?

***JohnGD*** · 09-21-2009, 09:22 PM

Flushing does not remove the debris on the bottom of the pan or clean a blocked strainer. My previous posts suggests for little cost you might want to clean the pan and install a new strainer.

However, as I mentioned, you can also do a line pressure test first and see if it's within specs. I would first suspect low line pressure.

Quote:

Originally Posted by p@nda

I had the transmission flushed about 50k miles ago. That didn't solve the problem at all.

***JohnGD*** · 09-21-2009, 09:25 PM

Yeah, it's probably a solenoid problem (valve body). Try to pull the code and see what it is. Haynes or Autozone's free repair guide should help.

But I'd make sure it's getting the right pressure first.

Quote:

Originally Posted by p@nda

Oh, I forgot a small detail. I get a flashing overdrive off light occasionally when I'm driving. Is that a warning light for something?

p@nda · 09-21-2009, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Yeah, it's probably a solenoid problem (valve body). Try to pull the code and see what it is. Haynes or Autozone's free repair guide should help.

But I'd make sure it's getting the right pressure first.

Where exactly is this solenoid?

***JohnGD*** · 09-21-2009, 09:55 PM

The Aisin A140E transmission is an early version of electronically controlled transmission. It still has a throttle linkage. Many other transmissions have not been using this linkage for ages, they're all electronic with pressure control solenoids.

However, shift applications here have been replaced by shift solenoids, and these control which clutch packs/brake bands are applied in order to shift gears.

Here is an example of a solenoid:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=983078

Quote:

Originally Posted by p@nda

Where exactly is this solenoid?