3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Alright, I'm getting ready to replace all these parts on my car. I'm going to try and order from RockAuto.com. I want to know what brands I'm good buying for which parts.
Distributor Rotor: They have Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Products
Distributor Cap: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Company
Is it recommended to have the same brand Rotor/Cap?
Spark Plugs: I know I should use either NGK or Denso. Problem is, there are so many models, different gap sizes (I don't even know what that means), and warranties that I don't know which to chose. I don't want to spend a load of money, and I don't really expect superior performance out of an i4 with 150,000 miles on it. I just want it to run smooth and be good on gas. Currently I'm getting 19-23mpg and I'm pretty sure the plugs in there are Bosch.
Wireset: NGK or Denso?
I'm assuming Wireset + Plugs should be the same brand.
PCV Valve: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Standard Motor Company?
Air Filter: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, FRAM?
Also, is it recommended to change the Distributor itself? I don't really have the money for that at the moment.
Thanks guys.
__________________
1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
Last edited by Retrospekt; 09-23-2009 at 10:13 PM.
2) cap & rotor = oem (beck/arnley or adelco is fine. I've used both brands without problems)
3) plugs & wires = NGK
4) PCV valve = any brand
5) air filter = oem or the cheapest one you can find
6) you don't need to replace the distributor. It's a part that's rarely ever required to be replaced. however, you should consider replacing the dist. to cyl. head o-ring. it's fairly common for that o-ring to harden, and crack creating an oil leak.
__________________
"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
Standard Motors is an aftermarket parts supplier. I haven't used Standard Motor products so I don't know. The other three should be fine. Beck Arnley is strictly a reboxer, Delco and Bosch are Tier-1 manufacturers but also rebox what they don't make so they can be a one-stop shop for you. In fact you're likely to have a Bosch ABS in the car or one made under license from Bosch. They have pretty advanced technology.
As others mentioned, do the distrubitor o-ring as well. Get NGK wires/plugs. They tend to be better than Denso. However, you don't have to keep everything one brand.
If you're trying to save money, use NGK G-Power Platinum. It has a thinner center electrode at an affordable price ~$2.5. I prefer NGK Iridium-IX ~$7 or Laser Iridium ~$9 myself. No plats for me.
PCV valves I typically use Fram. Make sure you get the rubber grommet as well (Dorman or Master brand on the shelf usually). No need to change the distributor assembly ($$), just the plastic rotor/cap/o-ring mostly.
As far as air filter goes, I'd go OEM. Oil filter Purolator PureOne or Bosch Filtech. If you're out of warranty, some use a large Motorcraft FL400S, even on the new 2.4L engine (!) as one discussed weeks ago. I only read that. So YMMV.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrospekt
Distributor Rotor: They have Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Products
Distributor Cap: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Company
Is it recommended to have the same brand Rotor/Cap?
Spark Plugs: I know I should use either NGK or Denso. Problem is, there are so many models, different gap sizes (I don't even know what that means), and warranties that I don't know which to chose. I don't want to spend a load of money, and I don't really expect superior performance out of an i4 with 150,000 miles on it. I just want it to run smooth and be good on gas. Currently I'm getting 19-23mpg and I'm pretty sure the plugs in there are Bosch.
Wireset: NGK or Denso?
I'm assuming Wireset + Plugs should be the same brand.
PCV Valve: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Standard Motor Company?
Air Filter: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, FRAM?
Also, is it recommended to change the Distributor itself? I don't really have the money for that at the moment.
Lol! Does that mean you stay the hell away from BMW's? I swear, almost all electronics in them are provided by Bosch. Heck, even the wipers are made by Bosch.
IMO, i'd get whatever is the cheapest at the auto parts store. But that's just me.
However, i am biased towards NGK when it comes to spark plugs.
You don't really need to replace dzzy's, but i think there are re-build kits. It's usually just carbon build-up on the contact points that may be troublesome. Otherwise, not much can go wrong (aside from rotor and a cracked cap)
__________________
Camry history:
1990 Camry CS 5spd - Now scrap metal
1994 Camry Executive A/T - Burnt to a crisp.
1995 Camry Vienta Csi A/T - Still running
1999 Camry Touring 5 spd - Current
Lol! Does that mean you stay the hell away from BMW's? I swear, almost all electronics in them are provided by Bosch. Heck, even the wipers are made by Bosch.
Ok, if your doing a tune up on a Japanese car...STAY AWAY FROM BOSCH!!! There are just soo many stories about bosch parts going bad in a short period of time in these forums. I have a few myself. However, if you have a german car go ahead and use bosch, since that's likely what it came with. I own a Japanese car, so, unless I have no other choice, I stick to Japanese parts when doing a tune-up. I've had more than one bad experience using bosch, so I'll never use that brand again. At least not on any of my cars.
__________________
"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country." - Kurt Vonnegut
Alright, I'm getting ready to replace all these parts on my car. I'm going to try and order from RockAuto.com. I want to know what brands I'm good buying for which parts.
Distributor Rotor: They have Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Products
Distributor Cap: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Bosch, Standard Motor Company
Is it recommended to have the same brand Rotor/Cap?
Spark Plugs: I know I should use either NGK or Denso. Problem is, there are so many models, different gap sizes (I don't even know what that means), and warranties that I don't know which to chose. I don't want to spend a load of money, and I don't really expect superior performance out of an i4 with 150,000 miles on it. I just want it to run smooth and be good on gas. Currently I'm getting 19-23mpg and I'm pretty sure the plugs in there are Bosch.
Wireset: NGK or Denso?
I'm assuming Wireset + Plugs should be the same brand.
PCV Valve: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, Standard Motor Company?
Air Filter: Beck/Arnley, Adelco, FRAM?
Also, is it recommended to change the Distributor itself? I don't really have the money for that at the moment.
Thanks guys.
Cap/Rotor: Beck Arnley, Plugs: Denso Double Platinum (These are OEM) Wires: Denso or NGK which ever is cheaper. They are of equal quality. PCV/AF: Beck Arnley. NO NEED TO CHANGE YOUR DISTRIBUTOR ! (unless there is a problem) I have the original distributor in my Camry with 250k and it is fine. I would however change the distributor "o" Ring if it is leaking. These cars are notorious for them. As for mileage you should be getting about 24 City, and 30-33 Highway, With the 5S-FE, and the A140E Auto Trans. (This is what I've ALWAYS gotten with mine, and EVERY Other 4 cyl Camry I've maintained (Mom's Grandma's, Several Friends), Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Justin
So far I have the Distributor Cap, Rotor, PCV Valve, and Grommet from Beck/Arnley.
I think I'm going to go with NGK G-Power Platinums. They are only 2.60 a piece. If anyone is strongly against this, let me know the reason and I guess I can shell out the extra money for the IX-Iridiums.
One thing I can't seem to locate is the Distributor O-Ring. I searched on RockAuto and couldn't find it. Does it have a specific name?
__________________
1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
So far I have the Distributor Cap, Rotor, PCV Valve, and Grommet from Beck/Arnley.
I think I'm going to go with NGK G-Power Platinums. They are only 2.60 a piece. If anyone is strongly against this, let me know the reason and I guess I can shell out the extra money for the IX-Iridiums.
One thing I can't seem to locate is the Distributor O-Ring. I searched on RockAuto and couldn't find it. Does it have a specific name?
The NGK G Power platinum is a "Universal Plug" Designed for many applications.
The Denso is designed SPECIFICALLY for Toyota Vehicles. The G Power is also only
Single Platinum. Meaning that the electrode is the only spot with platinum. This is why it is so cheap. The Denso, has platinum on both the electrode, AND the ground strap.
To find the Denso plugs you will need to look it up as a '95 Camry. For what ever reason, they don't list it for the '96, eventhough it is the OEM plug from '92-'96 models.
Also the Denso's service life is 60k b/c of the double platinum. The G power is only a 30k plug in this application.
The Denso Plug PK20R11 Part #3128 is the OEM plug, and it is only $5.89 a plug.
What is an extra 10 bucks to make sure you have the CORRECT plug. And that your car will run the way it was designed to.
As far as the distributor "o" ring, Sometimes rockauto carries, sometimes they don't.
I just checked rockauto, and it looks like they are out of them right now.
You can buy one from your local Toyota dealer for about 3 bucks.
You can tell if it is leaking by looking under the distributor with a mirror and a flashlight.
You will see oil down the side of the head.
Also have you done the T-Belt yet ? They are due every 60k or 5 years whichever comes first.
Please let me know if you have any questions, I maintain several of these cars.
Thanks guys for all the help. I'm still undecided on the plugs, I keep hearing both Denso and NGK and people have arguments for both.
I also decided to do the Fuel Filter. I'm sure mine is ancient. Available brands on RockAuto:
Wix, Beck/Arnley (There are more brands available but I'm trying to ship from same location. Wix is 5 bucks cheaper.)
Also, Torque Strut Mounts. Mine is extremely worn. There are two categories on RockAuto for this. One is labeled just "Torque Strut", and it's 28 dollars from Beck/Arnley. The other is labeled "Torque Strut Mount" and it is 12 dollars from Anchor. Both pictures look exactly the same.
My "Tune-Up" list so far.
Torque Strut Mount
ANCHOR Part # 8200
Front Right AUTOMATIC TRANS
Torque Strut Right w/ AT
$12.74 $0.00 $12.74
Spark plugs:
There are folks who like NGK, like myself, and those who like Denso. But either way you should be fine. The Iridium-IX should easily last 60K miles and the Laser Iridium (+ platinum ground pad) spec'ed for 120K miles. Denso Iridiums recommended change at 30K miles. I wouldn't go with thick electrode Denso or NGKs any more. So that leaves G-Power Platinum, Iridium IX, Laser Iridium, or shorter-life Denso Iridium. Take your pick.
Fuel filter:
Just make sure the bottom flare nut isn't seized and cost you a twisted fuel pipe. Make sure you use flare nut wrenches. Local Harbor Freight has them cheap. I use Wix with a more traditional element. Never used the one Fram I got because I cut it open, and it has a rolled up but thinner element should give you more surface area, but some complain the plastic core comes unglued sending debris into the fuel rail.
Torque strut mount:
The anchor 8200 is what's commonly called the "Dog Bone". It's for the upper mount on the passenger side. For the dog bone (and transmission mounts) Anchor should be fine. The large bottom engine mounts I like OEM, even if they cost more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrospekt
Thanks guys for all the help. I'm still undecided on the plugs, I keep hearing both Denso and NGK and people have arguments for both.
I also decided to do the Fuel Filter. I'm sure mine is ancient. Available brands on RockAuto:
Wix, Beck/Arnley (There are more brands available but I'm trying to ship from same location. Wix is 5 bucks cheaper.)
Also, Torque Strut Mounts. Mine is extremely worn. There are two categories on RockAuto for this. One is labeled just "Torque Strut", and it's 28 dollars from Beck/Arnley. The other is labeled "Torque Strut Mount" and it is 12 dollars from Anchor. Both pictures look exactly the same.
My "Tune-Up" list so far.
Torque Strut Mount
ANCHOR Part # 8200
Front Right AUTOMATIC TRANS
Torque Strut Right w/ AT
$12.74 $0.00 $12.74
Spark plugs:
There are folks who like NGK, like myself, and those who like Denso. But either way you should be fine. The Iridium-IX should easily last 60K miles and the Laser Iridium (+ platinum ground pad) spec'ed for 120K miles. Denso Iridiums recommended change at 30K miles. I wouldn't go with thick electrode Denso or NGKs any more. So that leaves G-Power Platinum, Iridium IX, Laser Iridium, or shorter-life Denso Iridium. Take your pick.
Fuel filter:
Just make sure the bottom flare nut isn't seized and cost you a twisted fuel pipe. Make sure you use flare nut wrenches. Local Harbor Freight has them cheap. I use Wix with a more traditional element. Never used the one Fram I got because I cut it open, and it has a rolled up but thinner element should give you more surface area, but some complain the plastic core comes unglued sending debris into the fuel rail.
Torque strut mount:
The anchor 8200 is what's commonly called the "Dog Bone". It's for the upper mount on the passenger side. For the dog bone (and transmission mounts) Anchor should be fine. The large bottom engine mounts I like OEM, even if they cost more.
Why don't you like the regular Denso Double Platinum plugs ?
The PK20R11 is the EXACT SAME plug that comes in a Toyota box.
Regular Denso Iridiums are the "Thick" ones and are spec'd for 120k Service.
Denso Iridium Power (IK20) are spec'd for 30k due to their superfine electrode.(.4MM)
I'd go with the Denso, it's OEM, what else do you need to know. If it's good enough for Toyota, why isn't it good enough for you ? I have 250k on my '95 Camry, and it has ALWAYS HAD Denso PK20R11's. Never given me a problem since new.
If you insist on NGK, go with the LASER PLATINUM. They are equivelent to the OEM plug, but cost 5 dollars more. This is why I would go with the Denso.
As for the fuel filter, it is a Lifetime filter, and never needs changing, unless there is contamination or some other problem. If it runs good after the new plugs, cap, wires & rotor, LEAVE IT ALONE !
As for the dogbone mount above the timing cover, go with the BeckArnley. If been through 4 anchor mounts in the last 5 years.
You should also check the front mount. These go bad ALL THE TIME. When they go bad, they flex the front pipe too much, and break the flex pipe.
You don't want this, a new pipe is 200 bucks. You can check the front mount by having a friend look at the engine while you "Power Brake" it. There should only be a little movement.
If there is a lot, then the mount is bad.
No, the PK20R11 is a platinum plug with plat ground pad. The SK20R11 is the long life 0.7mm iridium with plat ground pad. See Denso info below.
And with 120K-mile version of NGK, I'd go with NGK Laser Iridium, not Laser Platinum. Again, no plats for me -- Iridiums only. NGK Iridium IX is fine, really.
The finer electrode for NGK (0.7mm) and Denso (IK20, 0.4mm) iridiums mean a lower voltage requirement for firing. Not that it makes a difference. But it's just more reliable than 1.1mm plugs, and certainly very clean and very little if any wear of the center electrode at 50K miles. Can't say that with plats. The 0.4mm Denso means a shorter life (30K miles). So the 0.7mm NGK IX is a very good compromise between firing voltage and plug life, and the NGK Laser Iridium is for 120K mile intervals.
The 1.1mm thick electrode plugs are old stuff. They have no place in my engines. Today's cars typically come with Iridiums. Like the long life 0.7mm (NGK Laser Iridium) with a platinum ground pad that Toyota specs for 120K miles. European cars use 4-ground electrode Iridium Bosch plugs in high performance Motronic engine control systems.
IK20 Iridium Power
Stk: #5304 Iridium Power Performance Upgrade With World's Smallest Center Electrode (0.4 mm Dia.) & Tapered Tip Patented U-Groove Design & Patented Ir
PK20R11 Double Platinum
Stk: #3128 B; DENSO is OE manufacturer / O.E. Recommended Double Platinum Plug - Extra Long Life Double Platinum Plug with Platinum Ground Strap 1
SK20R11 Iridium Long-Life
Stk: #3297 Iridium Long Life - Patented Iridium Alloy Plug (90% Ir) With Platinum Ground Strap
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinC25
Why don't you like the regular Denso Double Platinum plugs ?
The PK20R11 is the EXACT SAME plug that comes in a Toyota box.
Regular Denso Iridiums are the "Thick" ones and are spec'd for 120k Service.
Denso Iridium Power (IK20) are spec'd for 30k due to their superfine electrode.(.4MM)
I'd go with the Denso, it's OEM, what else do you need to know. If it's good enough for Toyota, why isn't it good enough for you ? I have 250k on my '95 Camry, and it has ALWAYS HAD Denso PK20R11's. Never given me a problem since new.
If you insist on NGK, go with the LASER PLATINUM. They are equivelent to the OEM plug, but cost 5 dollars more. This is why I would go with the Denso.
As for the fuel filter, it is a Lifetime filter, and never needs changing, unless there is contamination or some other problem. If it runs good after the new plugs, cap, wires & rotor, LEAVE IT ALONE !
As for the dogbone mount above the timing cover, go with the BeckArnley. If been through 4 anchor mounts in the last 5 years.
You should also check the front mount. These go bad ALL THE TIME. When they go bad, they flex the front pipe too much, and break the flex pipe.
You don't want this, a new pipe is 200 bucks. You can check the front mount by having a friend look at the engine while you "Power Brake" it. There should only be a little movement.
If there is a lot, then the mount is bad.
Sure, after 100K miles the front/rear mounts should be inspected and changed when necessary. Bad mounts can take out CV joint boots as well.
Again, for these large mounts I like OEM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinC25
You should also check the front mount. These go bad ALL THE TIME. When they go bad, they flex the front pipe too much, and break the flex pipe.
You don't want this, a new pipe is 200 bucks. You can check the front mount by having a friend look at the engine while you "Power Brake" it. There should only be a little movement.
If there is a lot, then the mount is bad.
I think I'll go with NGK and shell out the extra money to get some good, long lasting plugs. Here are the two most expensive NGK options:
NGK Part # 3764 {IX-Series Iridium #3540, BKR6EIX11, BKR6EVX11}
NGK Part # 4589 {Premium Iridium #IFR6T11}
The IX Iridium's are 7.13 dollars a piece. The Premium Iridium's (Same thing as Laser Iridium's?) are 7.56 a piece.
I guess Laser-Iridium's are the smart choice here if they do indeed last more than 100k miles.
Edit: How do I check if the larger motor mounts are good? I can easily spot the front engine mount, it's right near the radiator. The back one is near the transmission I assume.
Again, thanks a lot. You've all been a great help.
Edit #2: After adding those plugs to my cart, I have Plugs, Wire Set, Dogbone (Torque Strut) Mount, PCV Valve, Distrib Cap, and Distrib Rotor for a grand total of $105.58 shipped without the 5% TN discount. I'm still unsure if I want to do the fuel filter or not.
__________________
1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
Last edited by Retrospekt; 09-25-2009 at 12:09 AM.
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