3rd & 4th Generation (1992–1996 & 1997–2001)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 1992-1996 & 1997-2001
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
The camry's are good but what I've noticed is that suspension parts break all the time. Now I have an issue with a clunking noise coming from the rear. Also a clunking noise from 58 to 65 mph. I believe it is the rear stabilizer bushings. According to this site http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/re...ta&model=Camry they break often on these cars.
Does anyone know if rear stabilizer bushings are hard to replace?
The camry's are good but what I've noticed is that suspension parts break all the time. Now I have an issue with a clunking noise coming from the rear. Also a clunking noise from 58 to 65 mph. I believe it is the rear stabilizer bushings. According to this site http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/re...ta&model=Camry they break often on these cars.
Does anyone know if rear stabilizer bushings are hard to replace?
They are quite easy but there are 2 diameters of sway bar out there. Take measurements first to make sure you get the right parts
And to answer your question about difficulty: No, it's very easy. I'm 17 and I did it in about 45 minutes. Most of the time was spent getting the bolts off, they were rusted. Use penetrating oil.
Make sure you use jack stands to prop the car up, and block the front tires off.
__________________
1996 Toyota Camry | 4 Cyl. 2.2L | Black Paint with Tan Interior | All Stock | DEAD at 155k. Broken Crankshaft/Main Bearing
They are easy to replace if you can get the bolts to loosen without breaking the heads off. I dunno what it is about my Camry I always end up breaking a bolt or two off no matter how much penetrating oil I use. Use a wrench to find out the diameter of the sway bar. I believe it will be either 15mm 16mm or 17mm. That is how I determined the correct diameter when I replaced mine. Hopefully the noise will be gone after new bushings as struts are often the cause of the annoying clunk you may be refering to. Oh and it could also be the rear stabilizer links, I have replaced those also due to clunking and I am only at 94,000 on a 95. Best of luck and keep us up to date as to what the solution was.
They are easy to replace if you can get the bolts to loosen without breaking the heads off. I dunno what it is about my Camry I always end up breaking a bolt or two off no matter how much penetrating oil I use. Use a wrench to find out the diameter of the sway bar. I believe it will be either 15mm 16mm or 17mm. That is how I determined the correct diameter when I replaced mine. Hopefully the noise will be gone after new bushings as struts are often the cause of the annoying clunk you may be refering to. Oh and it could also be the rear stabilizer links, I have replaced those also due to clunking and I am only at 94,000 on a 95. Best of luck and keep us up to date as to what the solution was.
while trying to replace the bushings I did snap the heads off. I had to take it to the shop, was charged 85 dollars for replacement of both. I'm still getting the same noise. Turns out it was not the sway bar bushings. Could it be the stabilizer links? Are those hard to replace or will the heads break off?
^replacing the sway bar links are pretty easy just use a hex key and hold the stud in place while you use I believe a 14 mm socket to break the nut loose. If the hex key hole is rusted and rounded beyond recognition, then use a pair of vice grips and clamp the stud while cranking on the nut with the socket wrench.
If the vise grip technique fails you might have to resort to cutting off the nut with a dremel or similar tool or even using a drill to drill out the screw body. I had to drill mine out on the front and rear in order to replace the linkages. I started out with a 1/4" drill bit then went up to a 3/8" drill bit to complete the removal. The hex cavity (assuming these are the original parts, some aftermarket linkages do not have the hex cavity in them) that is on the end of the threaded section works nice to initially guide the 1/4" drill bit. If the nut begins to spin on you before you have the threads drill out all of the way put a 14mm box end wrench on it and continue drilling with the wrench end butted up against something solid. Oh, and keep the drill bit cool with any kind of spray lube or penetrating oil.
After seeing around 5 mechanics that had no clue what the issue was and after replacing the rear stabilizer bushings and the struts which the mechanic said were the issue which was 700 total in repairs and around 4 months of driving less than 58 mph. It turns out it as a bad tire.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
